Fill water test results with TF100

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BethyM

BethyM

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Jun 5, 2012
118
Got the TF100 and been itching to use it even though the pool isn't here til Thursday so I got it out and tested the fill water. It was probably a good experiment in following directions, before it 'counts'... So, here's what I got:

This is city water, from the hose...

FC = .5ppm
TA = this is where direction following helps. I got to 32 drops (yikes) and it changed color when I dropped it in but the sample then went back to green. I read the 'detailed' directions and suspect I wasn't fully inverting the bottle to get a full sized drop so hoping that number is high, or doesn't matter on my vinyl lined ABG. :) So, my question that I didn't find answered is whether you've got your result when the drop added changes color or if the whole sample is suppose to change?

PH = 7.5

That's it for now! I'm getting some "poolife" chems with the pool.... They were vague about what they are and so I may or may not use them. As part of the 'package' they are really just a throw in to get you to buy more stuff.

I've been working on figuring out what to do when it gets here, so see if I'm thinking on the right lines. Need to bring pool to shock level (with either bleach or Poolife shock assuming it is chlorine and nothing but chlorine) and keep it there while CYA has a chance to dissolve. CYA is added by either using the 'tablets' they give me to add both chlorine and CYA together or with bleach + CYA.

Do I need to test Calcium Hardness on the tap water, or does it matter?

I keep reading and learning, thanks for your help!
 
The TA test will read high if the dropper bottle isn't vertical. Also, sometimes the tip gets a static electric charge. Wiping the tip with a damp tissue ever few drops takes care of that.

You continue adding drops until the color changes and remains changed for several seconds, and an additional drop does not change it any further. The final drop, which doesn't change it any further, is not counted.

There is no need to shock if using tap water. You should shock if using stream or pond water. For the first day or couple of days, adding 2 ppm of chlorine each evening takes care of it. Switch to regular testing and adding chlorine to target level once the CYA has been added 24 hours or more previous.
 
Thanks for the quick reply! I know I've seen it a million times about adding "2ppm" but now that I'm thinking in practical terms with the poolcalculator, how do I determine that dose? It's a 27' Round AGP with 54" walls -- I've been using like 4.25 feet as the 'water height' to determine volume. I assume the calculator is interested in the water depth not the wall depth?
 
Goodness gravy... I don't live in any of those places but we do have hard water -- I've just attempted a Calcium Hardness test

#1: Used the 25ml water. At 36 drops the sample was clearly purple

#2: Used 10ml water. Added 3 drops of R-0012 before adding the R-0010 or R-0011L. Then added 17 drops of R-0012 and had another purple sample :-(

I'm going to stop here and wait for advice before I end up buying Dave out of these reagents. We have softened water in the house, but the hose is not softened. While I do not have the magnetic stirrer I am stirring in between each drop. Thanks!
 
I'll retest again tonight. Assuming that it's at least 425 I'm wondering about the chlorine that comes with the pool. I'm pretty sure it's Cal-Hypo and I'm just guessing that I don't want to add more calcium to a pool that is filled with this hard water. According to PoolCalculator, you lower Cal by removing water and replacing with water with lower calcium. I guess this will sort of happen overtime with rain water, but if the Calcium is a problem is there a means of treating the water? If so, what is it? Should I consider using Borates to 'soften' things up a bit?

Thanks!
 
BethyM said:
I'll retest again tonight. Assuming that it's at least 425 I'm wondering about the chlorine that comes with the pool. I'm pretty sure it's Cal-Hypo and I'm just guessing that I don't want to add more calcium to a pool that is filled with this hard water. According to PoolCalculator, you lower Cal by removing water and replacing with water with lower calcium. I guess this will sort of happen overtime with rain water, but if the Calcium is a problem is there a means of treating the water? If so, what is it? Should I consider using Borates to 'soften' things up a bit?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
You are correct about the Cal-hypo. Calcium removal involved reverse osmosis, only available in a very few (like two) areas of the US, and draining.
 
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