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Thread: High TA

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    High TA

    How long should I wait before adding additional muradic acid? My TA is 160 for my 40,000 gallon SW pool. I added a jug last night and it didn't lower the TA.
    40,000 gallon gunite
    22 x 45
    SWG
    Pentair Intellichlor
    Triton II
    Starite Max e therm 333
    Southeastern Michigan

  2. Back To Top    #2
    linen's Avatar
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    Re: High TA

    Welcome to tfp, Aunt Juju

    Typically we suggest waiting 1 hour with pump running then test again and add.

    What is your ph at?
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: High TA

    Ph is 7.2. Water also is clear with a green tint. Don't know what that's about. TC is 4.5. Also, CYA is 20 after adding stabilizer (filled old pantyhouse and put in skimmer baskets.) How long will it take for the CYA to go up? Sorry, completely new to this pool stuff.
    40,000 gallon gunite
    22 x 45
    SWG
    Pentair Intellichlor
    Triton II
    Starite Max e therm 333
    Southeastern Michigan

  4. Back To Top    #4
    linen's Avatar
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    Re: High TA

    Quote Originally Posted by Aunt Juju
    Ph is 7.2.
    To continue to lower TA you will need to aerate to get the ph up again. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...l%20alkalinity

    Quote Originally Posted by Aunt Juju
    Water also is clear with a green tint.
    That sounds like metal in the water. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...metal%20stains

    Quote Originally Posted by Aunt Juju
    Also, CYA is 20 after adding stabilizer (filled old pantyhouse and put in skimmer baskets.) How long will it take for the CYA to go up?
    How much did you put in and what was your target? It can take up to a week for cya to fully show up in test, so I would not test again for now.

    It will help us help you is you put your pool and equipment details in your signature.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: High TA

    Thanks. My pool has a "bubbler" that I can turn on to aerate. Should I add more acid yet? I don't have a test kit for metals, so I will take a sample to the pool store. However, on 6/5/12, the pool store told us to add one bottle of Metal Free because our iron number was 1.5. Pool was completely clear prior to adding Metal Free. Once we added the Metal Free, the pool turned cloudy, then green but retested 0 for iron. Was told to add a case of liquid chlorine. Have since added 2 additional cases. Water is getting clearer daily, but not less green. I will add info to my signature.
    40,000 gallon gunite
    22 x 45
    SWG
    Pentair Intellichlor
    Triton II
    Starite Max e therm 333
    Southeastern Michigan

  6. Back To Top    #6
    linen's Avatar
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    Re: High TA

    Quote Originally Posted by Aunt Juju
    Thanks. My pool has a "bubbler" that I can turn on to aerate. Should I add more acid yet? I don't have a test kit for metals, so I will take a sample to the pool store. However, on 6/5/12, the pool store told us to add one bottle of Metal Free because our iron number was 1.5. Pool was completely clear prior to adding Metal Free. Once we added the Metal Free, the pool turned cloudy, then green but retested 0 for iron. Was told to add a case of liquid chlorine. Have since added 2 additional cases. Water is getting clearer daily, but not less green. I will add info to my signature.
    Yeah, turn on the bubbler.

    Don't add acid until you ph is back up to 7.7-7.8, then bring it back down.

    When you say the water turned green, you meant green but still clear? If so, most likely that was due to adding the chlorine.

    It would help us if you post a full set of test results to move forward. Post what you have for now.

    It sounds like you are shocking the pool? Why?
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Re: High TA

    When I was told to add Metal Free, my chlorine level was zero. I thought that the green might be algea forming. Here are my test results for today:

    Ph 7.2
    TA 160
    Cya 20
    TC 4.5
    Ch 250
    40,000 gallon gunite
    22 x 45
    SWG
    Pentair Intellichlor
    Triton II
    Starite Max e therm 333
    Southeastern Michigan

  8. Back To Top    #8
    linen's Avatar
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    Re: High TA

    First and foremost you need an appropriate test kit. What do you have now? Where did those numbers come from? See link in my sig for details...I like the tf-100, best bang for buck.

    If you suspect algae, an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT) would help you know. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...rnight_fc_test It will be difficult to do the OCLT with just a TC (Total Chlorine) test, but you can try.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  9. Back To Top    #9

    Re: High TA

    Already purchased the TF-100 kit. That's where my numbers came from.
    40,000 gallon gunite
    22 x 45
    SWG
    Pentair Intellichlor
    Triton II
    Starite Max e therm 333
    Southeastern Michigan

  10. Back To Top    #10
    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Location
    South Carolina
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    10,045

    Re: High TA

    What are FC & CC?
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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  11. Back To Top    #11

    Re: High TA

    Also, even though recently added cya (less than one week since addition) may not show up on a test, you can assume it is in there and base your target FC on the amount of cya you added -- so if it the test says cya of 20 but you know you added enough to get to 40 two days ago, assume a cya of 40.
    POOL: Intex ultra new in 2014 (32 x 16 x 52) (seasonal; on concrete pad covered with 1.5" extruded or whatever foam insulation sheets - ugly, but comfy); added a through-wall skimmer; I add salt for feel. EQUIPMENT: Pentair SuperFlo pump (1HP, 2SPD); Pentair cartridge filter (200 sq. ft); Pentair MasterTemp natural gas heater (400,000 btu) Climate/Location: Eastern Nebraska

  12. Back To Top    #12

    Re: High TA

    This is probably a stupid question, but I want to do an overnight chlorine test and do not know how to shut off the SWG. Is there an "off" button somewhere? I am such a girl.
    40,000 gallon gunite
    22 x 45
    SWG
    Pentair Intellichlor
    Triton II
    Starite Max e therm 333
    Southeastern Michigan

  13. Back To Top    #13
    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: High TA

    You can just set it to zero % and it'll be fine.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

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