Brand New TF-100 with results and questions

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L

lkae4

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Jul 26, 2011
82
Monmouth County, New Jersey
My TF 100 just came. It feels like one of those science kits you would get as a child. But, with the very clear instructions the whole process was surprisingly easy.

Here are the results I got:
PH - 7.5
CL - 5+

FC - 17
CC - 0
CYA - 35
TA - 80

Question on the TA test - I thought the color was more rose pink than red. Do you stop adding drops as soon as it turns from green to the pinky red color or should you just keep adding drops till it gets a darker red? I took the reading and that was 80 and then I added a few more drops to see if the color changed more and it didn't seem to so I went with the original number. Was that right.

So my chlorine is too high I think. I am going to turn the SWG down to 50% and see what happens. I had it on 65%.
According to the SWG manual the CYA should be higher than it is. I will add a little more at a time to see where it goes. I am I understanding correctly that it takes days to show up and should be added in small batches.

We didn't know that the pool builder hadn't added any at all and so I added enough to get it where it is now. I added it right into the skimmer. It was a fine powder.

So, what do you think? Am I on the right track or should I be doing anything else.

I am so glad I got this kit. I am paranoid about algae being in the pool and not realizing it till it is in full bloom. We had an above ground years ago so I am familiar with that.

Nancy
 
The test kit makes it fun doesn't it! Did you get the speed stir? It makes testing so much easier.

I'm still dialing in my SWCG as i too have been going through the process of getting my CYA to correct levels without over shooting the target range. I just used bleach to compensate when i was at the lower % levels and it was not producing enough chlorine. The pool builder had it initially set on 60% and then i went down down down 50%,40% then took it to 5% and worked my way back up to 30% over the course of 1 month.

It sounds like to me you have a handle on the testing and the procedures to make any necessary adjustment. One thing i have found helpful are the extended test instructions, there are some really good tips in there especially if you are super anal about testing and testing procedures extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html

The CYA/Chlorine chart pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock shows that for your SWG pool you need to continue to get the CYA up, and that your Chlorine is too high at the moment but you know that and are addressing it.

So this is your first swim season, how are you enjoying your new pool? Pictures would be fun!

EDIT From extended test kit instructions for TA

Counting the number of drops as you go, add R-0009 one drop at a time, swirling to mix after each drop.
Continue adding drops until the color changes to something more or less red, pink, yellow, or clear. The sample may switch between green, blue, and gray while you are adding drops. That is not the color change you are waiting for.
Continue adding drops as long as the color continues changing. The final drop, that does not change the color any further, does not count.

Now when I do the TA test the 8th drop changes the color from green to the very lightest clear/pink, and then the 9th drop changes it to a solid bright pink. I've been recording that as 80-90 on my sheet, but i think 80 is the correct number as even though it is clear/light pink the color has indeed changed from green. It could be 90 however..... :hammer:
 
With any of the color change based test results you hold the dropper vertically above the vial, add one drop at a time and either swirl well (2 or 3 seconds) or let the speed stir mix it a couple of seconds before adding the next drop. When there is no more color change subtract the last drop from the drop count and that is your test result. For the TA test you will need to wipe the tip of the dropper with a damp cloth or tissue every few drops to prevent static build up that lessens the size of the drops.
 
So, what do you think? Am I on the right track or should I be doing anything else.
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Absolutely! You have a terrific grasp of all the concepts for someone so new. :goodjob:

All your ideas for future adjustments are spot on the money. I would be prepared to turn the SWG down even further than 50% as you bring up your CYA.....but it's a trial and error process until you find a sweet spot. :lol:
 
Thanks so much. My grasp of all this stuff is due to reading almost every post on this site. It has been invaluable. I started reading as we were deciding to put a pool. I didn't understand a lot of it at the time but when it comes up now it all makes sense. I would never have known that I needed to check for CYA if I weren't reading these posts. Who would think that when they started up the pool last October that there was no stabilizer added and then they opened it a few weeks ago and still didn't add any. My first test was absolutely zero. I got a container of test strips. They worked but I like the TF 100 so much better because of the precision.

AND - I finally am understanding the whole free chlorine and CC stuff. If you read it enough times and read the posts all of a sudden you get it. I love being able to know if something is in the pool eating the chlorine before I wind up with a green pool.

You are all so generous with your time and information.

Nancy
 
I am gradually turningthe swg down and I now have the FC down to 11 but the CC has gone from zero to .5.

The pink that it turned back to was very pale and it took only one drop to clear the water again.

Should the CC always be absolutely zero or is .5 going to happen at times.

The water looks beautiful It is fairly cool here and it is mostly overcast.

Am I safe to keep dialing down the swg to get the level of FC lower. Also, what is the danger from having it stay around ten. Is it bad for the pool?

Thanks,

Nancy
 
lkae4 said:
I am gradually turningthe swg down and I now have the FC down to 11 but the CC has gone from zero to .5.

The pink that it turned back to was very pale and it took only one drop to clear the water again.

Should the CC always be absolutely zero or is .5 going to happen at times.
.5 CC happens sometimes & is okay. If it ever hits 1 CC, time to shock :wink:

The water looks beautiful It is fairly cool here and it is mostly overcast.

Am I safe to keep dialing down the swg to get the level of FC lower.
Yes, but you could just turn it off until FC drops to where you want it & then turn SWG back on at a lower %.
Also, what is the danger from having it stay around ten. Is it bad for the pool?
No danger, but not necessary. You put more wear and tear on the salt cell. What are your plans/when are you adding more CYA?

Thanks,

Nancy
Click to expand...
 
Just got to the store this morning and bought some extra stabilizer. Should I wait to get the chlorine down before adding it or just go ahead and add it now.

I also had to get some more salt. The manual wants the salt around 3200 and ours is hovering between 2900 and 3000. I am going to add that in the morning.

I will check again in the morning to see what the cc is and if it is increasing or decreasing. Can it decrease on its own?

Thanks, Nancy
 

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You were right. Today there is no cc. The chlorine is down to 10 today and I turned the swg down even more.

I just love really knowing what is going on with the water. Years ago when we had an abg for years and years I used the little two tube OTO test and never knew any difference. Love this test kit.
 
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