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Thread: New pool, can you help with chemical info?

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    New pool, can you help with chemical info?

    I am getting my Intex 24' metal frame pool filled up by a pool water guy tonight. (I am on a well and I don't want to deal with the iron.)

    I have no clue about the chemicals, and the guy at the pool store made it sound really expensive and difficult.

    I read through the BBB method and I think I understand it all. I did buy chemicals to start out and will be using the BBB method after the first week or two.

    I have borax and baking soda for pH issues (no need to pay twenty times as much for the same thing, right?) and I also bought the HTH Super 3" chlorinating tablets. I do realize that these can cause a buildup of CYA but I think just using them once or twice should be fine, right?

    I also bought the Shock N Swim and the Super Algae Guard, plus a 6 way test kit.

    So here are my questions.

    Should I test the pH before or after adding the chlorine?

    How long after adding chemicals should I test?

    If I need to adjust pH, do I just dump the baking soda/borax in, or should i dissolve it in a little water in a bucket first?

    If I add the shock tonight when the water gets here, can we swim tomorrow?

    Thank you so much in advance... I am a complete noob.

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: New pool, can you help with chemical info?

    First thing to do is test the pH. You can do that while it's filling.
    Then ask if it's chlorinated water they're using. If it is that's even better.
    Then test the FC once the pool is full and the pump is running and add enough bleach to get to about 3 ppm.

    If you have a floater to use the pucks in you can throw a couple in there and run the pump.

    Then I'd suggest getting enough CYA to bring the level up to about 40 ppm and go ahead and add it as soon as you can. You can swim while the CYA is dissolving in the pool.

    You can siwm as soon as you get the pH adjusted and get the first FC (chlorine) in the pool.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

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    Join Date
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    Re: New pool, can you help with chemical info?

    Bama got you covered. In addition to what he said, you raise PH with Borax and lower it with Muriatic acid or Dry acid. Baking soda is used to raise your TA (total alkalinity). Depending on your truck water, you may not need it. I bought a big box of Baking Soda two years ago. I used the first two cups of it last week. Check out Pool School and peruse the "ABCs of Water Chemistry".

    Also, even though you have a test kit, you're going to need a better one that has the FAS-DPD chlorine test. I strongly recommend the TF-Test Kit. You can order just the FAS/DPD Chlorine & CC's test by itself if money's tight. There is no substitute for this particular chlorine test.
    Bill
    18'X4' 7600 Gal AG
    3/4 HP Pentair Pump
    Hayward S166T 100 lb sand filter

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    Re: New pool, can you help with chemical info?

    Thank you!! I'm pleased with the water so far, everything was perfect for beginning. The pH is 7.2 and chlorine was 0. I've got chlorine going in there now and the pump is going. The kids want to swim but the water temperature is under 55 degrees so they are going to have to wait!

    Thanks again!!

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    Re: New pool, can you help with chemical info?

    great info!
    15'x52" Atlantic Admiral, Hayward ProFlo LX 1HP pump, Hayward 16" Sand Filter.........BBB Method

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: New pool, can you help with chemical info?

    Quote Originally Posted by rodey
    The kids want to swim but the water temperature is under 55 degrees so they are going to have to wait!
    Why make them wait? If they want to try, I'd let em...they will get out quick.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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