Salt Water Monster--cholorine readings, pool care etc.

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What is turbo shock made of? Dichlor or calhypo? Both add chemicals to the pool you do not want in high quantities.

Wait for your kit. Then a lot of liquid chlorine is the answer ... It is always the answer.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone ;)
 
Yeah I looked up the MSDS sheet and see it is cal-hypo.

Adding that much at once is not really a good idea (hopefully it was spaced out ... but you still should not be adding chemicals without accurate measurements and dosages based on the poolcalculator. If it was 73% cal-hypo, that would have raised your FC by 69ppm :shock: and it added 50ppm of calcium to your pool.

Get the kit, start using liquid chlorine with a correct shock target level.
 
It was spaced out in terms of putting it in BUT it didn't raise the FC at all! That is what is so odd about it. What could be causing the pool to not have any FC??? Oh, and our TA is super high. Is there any correlation, do you think?
 
TA has no affect on the FC.

Based on the fact that your FC is dropping FAST and you are seeing huge CC numbers, you likely have ammonia in the pool (possible conversion of the CYA to ammonia by bacteria). The solution is ....

yup you guessed it MORE CHLORINE!!!!
 
Using straight liquid is "safer" in that you do not need to be worried out the side-effects.

That said, what is your current CH reading? Back on page 1 you listed it in the low 100s ... for a gunite pool, you want it up closer to 300.

So, if you have the Turbo Shock, you could use it, but realize that CH is one of the things that the only way to lower it is by draining/replacing water.

If you check the prices for the amount of FC you get ... generally the liquid is actually cheaper.
 
CH is 176 today. The Turboshock didn't really have any affect on the calcium on the pool (i.e, didn't raise it as you may have expected from your last post).

I should mention that it is 105 degrees here in Indiana. Hottest summer ever. That has got to have some affect on the chlorine and balancing the pool.
 
Yesterday you reported CH at 120ppm ... now you are reporting 176 (which is odd as it is usually in multiples of 10). Anyway 50ppm rise is what I predicted for the 36 lbs of "shock" ... seems pretty close to me.

Temperature is currently have much less affect on the FC than whatever (ammonia?) you have in the pool.

Although, it seems like your CYA is still pretty low so you could be loosing some of the FC to the sun. It could help you some to get the CYA up to closer to 30ppm.
 
Good catch Jason, on the CH. It did get raised. I am intrigued by the ammonia answer because as I started reading more here on the boards, it is likely that is why we are LOSING CYA even after putting in 4 gallons of it. I read that bacteria may be converting the CYA into ammonia. Does that sound right to you?
Also, the Taylor test kit--does it have the the test which will show me if I have reached my target FC or do I need another test kit for that?
 

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That is my thought ... the CYA is getting converted to ammonia.

Which Taylor kit did you get? The key is the FAS-DPD chlorine test which is included in the K-2006 kit. The K-2005 kit only has a DPD test and that is not what you want. If you did happen to order the K2005 ... you can buy the FAS-DPD test separately from tftestkits.net ... which would then give you the equivalent of the K2006.

Since you see high CC and fast drop of FC ... I would suggest keep adding chlorine and it will likely drop very fast.
 
So I have been following the shocking process as outlined in Pool School for 3 full days. Namely, putting liquid chlorine in every hour about 6 times a day. I am still only getting about. 1.0 FC level reading. The pool is still green. In other words, I am not meeting any of the 3 conditions to stop shocking the pool. Totally frustrated. I there any reason not to put more bottles of liquid chlorine than is recommended to kill off whatever is in there??? I am getting totally discouraged...
 
You should add chlorine to reach your FC shock target. Wait an hour. Test your FC level. Add more chlorine to reach the shock level again. Repeat.

Is that what you are doing?

Eventually you will need to be adding less and less to stay at shock level.

If it is dropping fast, maybe test and adjust every half hour.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone ;)
 
Because we haven' received the FAS-DPD chlorine test kit yet (it should be here by Thursday, fingers crossed), I haven't been able to get the exact reading on FC, above the "5" that I get on the other home tests I have. I am using a Poolife Test kit (that is on loan from the pool store) and the Bioguard 5 way test kit that we own. This morning, after putting in 4 gallons of liquid chlorine, I waited an hour and half and tested the water. The chlorine reading was in the 3 to 4 range (pink color) in both Poolife and Bioguard tests. So, still well below the 10 level, clearly. And of course, the pool is green.
 
Ramla said:
Also, isn't the color an indication that the chlorine is killing off whatever is in there? I mean the color has turned ever so slightly but the deep end still is pretty
Click to expand...
Possibly. The fact that your chlorine is getting used up is a sign that you are making progress, though with out the kit, and therefore not knowing how high you are, you do not know if you are merely keeping pace with the algae as it is multiplying, falling behing, or if you are killing it faster. Hopefully your kit will get to you fast.
 
I am not sure you have used poolcalculator.com yet, but here are some numbers:
1 gallon 6% bleach raises FC by 2ppm
1 gallon 10% raises FC by 3.2ppm
1 gallon 12.5% raises FC by 3.9ppm

Of course it seems like it is getting used up quickly.
 
Yes, I used the pool calculator initially but the demand is so high that even after putting in 4 gallons, I barely get a 0.5 reading. My pool is big (45k) but still, we have put about 20 gallons in today and still barely registering 0.5. FC.
 
Ok, so here is a reading from the pool store yesterday evening:

FC: 3.2
TC: 3.2
Alk: 173
ph: 7
CYA: 15
Calcium: 159

We continued the shock process and I just re-tested the water. This is a little more iffy but here goes:

FC: over the 5 reading allowed
ph: over 8

Clearly the FC is holding. I don't meet the 3 conditions to stop the shocking process but the chlorine is high. So now, do I put liquid chlorine in greater intervals during the day, just a couple of times a day?? Should I do the Overnight test? Also, water is pretty clear (I can see the bottom of the pool) but still greenish tint. So how does that translate?
 

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