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Thread: Pool chemistry?

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    Pool chemistry?

    I didnt know if I should post this under swg, pool chemistry, or just being a knuckle head. So feel free to move it.

    Ok the stats. New pool of course. 27500 gal swg.
    fc 5
    ph 7.5
    ch 240
    ta 120

    cya I only have test strips :{ I used pool calculator when setting up to determine how much of everything to add. Seems I overshot the mark on the alkalinity and hardness. The cya tested with a strip between 50 and 100 a week after adding. Now down to 50 maybe less depending on how you look at the strip.

    Here is my issue. A couple weeks ago I forgot about the hose and overfilled the pool. Pumped out a couple inches and was letting mother natures evaporation take care of the rest. Well yesterday we got a couple inches of rain and now the skimmer is below the surface again. After my first pump out I lost salt and threw my levels out of whak, well worse than what they are currently. I am looking at the forcast and it looks fairly dry for the next several days. Should I go ahead and pump it down or just wait.

    I have had a lot more seddiment on the floor since the skimmer has not worked too well. At least I hope its not algea it looks like fine brown dirt in the corners. Some of it doesnt vaccum up very easily, and now is leaving a slight stain in the liner after vaccuming. There is a big field of dirt not too far away from the pool; left over from construction, so I know that any wind will bring dirt into the pool. Is it dirt or algea?

    Knuckle head right?
    15,000 gallon, IG Diamond Brite plaster, Hayward Max Flo 1.5HP pump, Pentair Clean and Clear 100gpm cartridge filter. http://imgur.com/xHFxE

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
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    Re: Pool chemistry?

    Not a knucklehead. You just need a more dependable way to test. Strips produce results that you just cannot depend on. For example, we need a number for your CYA rather than a range. Absolute accuracy is key and you can only get this with a drop-based test kit. Any chance that you might be able to run a sample to the pool store for some comparison results? Hard to know what to do without some good numbers.

    Please order a good test kit. TF-100 is preferred and you can only get it at tftestkits.net.

    ETA: I moved the thread to a more appropriate section for you.

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Re: Pool chemistry?

    ok here are the numbers
    fc 1.43
    total c 1 .76
    cc .33
    ta 164
    ph 7.8
    ch 224
    cya 59
    tds 250
    sat index .5

    what should I do from here?
    15,000 gallon, IG Diamond Brite plaster, Hayward Max Flo 1.5HP pump, Pentair Clean and Clear 100gpm cartridge filter. http://imgur.com/xHFxE

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Pool chemistry?

    Is that from a pool store now? They are only marginally better than strips. Order a GOOD test kit.

    Based on those questionable tests:
    pH is slightly high
    TA is a little high
    Most important FC is LOW ... check the CYA / FC chart in Pool School. I think you need to be over 3 at all times for a SWG pool.

    Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Re: Pool chemistry?

    I'm guessing those results are from test strips, and although not greatly accurate (esp with the CYA levels), but they can give you a place to start until you get something better.

    How much CYA have you added? Did you add it using pucks, or "stabilizer" ?

    Get your chlorine up... plug all of your numbers into the pool calculator to see where you need to be.

    I would shock with your FC being that low and your questioning the possibility of algae.... check out pool school "how -to" section for details. It's a process... not a product.
    Indiana, ABG 24'x52" Galveston by Blue Cascade (Craigslist buy w/part of deck included), 13,500 gallons, Intex SWG, solar panels mix 2, TF-100 test kit.

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    Re: Pool chemistry?

    I have tested free chlorine with the drop test kit that came with the pool regularly.
    It has never measured below 4 ever. Most of the time it holds about 6.5 to 7. I measure it almost every day. I dont trust that number at all. I do use a drop test, although a basic one, multiple times a week. It only measures fc, ta, ph and acid demand. I was just using the dip sticks for cya and hardness. I use the dip sticks on my hot tub primarily. But yes I am going to order the good test kit. The pool store finds problems so they can sell chemicals i get that. But I wanted to see.
    15,000 gallon, IG Diamond Brite plaster, Hayward Max Flo 1.5HP pump, Pentair Clean and Clear 100gpm cartridge filter. http://imgur.com/xHFxE

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Re: Pool chemistry?

    It states at the top of the report that it is a computerized water analysis what ever that means. And I added granular CYA as per the calculator when I filled my pool.
    15,000 gallon, IG Diamond Brite plaster, Hayward Max Flo 1.5HP pump, Pentair Clean and Clear 100gpm cartridge filter. http://imgur.com/xHFxE

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    Re: Pool chemistry?

    The cya is one of the hardest ones to measure... even with the test kit, and it's one of the most important ones you need to know.

    You listed your fc at 1.43 on your last comment and that is far too low for a cya value of 59... Your FC needs to be a minimum of 5 at all times with a cya of 59.

    How much of the cya did you add? That will help us determine if your 59 value is accurate.
    Indiana, ABG 24'x52" Galveston by Blue Cascade (Craigslist buy w/part of deck included), 13,500 gallons, Intex SWG, solar panels mix 2, TF-100 test kit.

    Test kits compared
    Purchase test kits

  9. Back To Top    #9

    Re: Pool chemistry?

    I think 16 pounds
    15,000 gallon, IG Diamond Brite plaster, Hayward Max Flo 1.5HP pump, Pentair Clean and Clear 100gpm cartridge filter. http://imgur.com/xHFxE

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    Re: Pool chemistry?

    With 27500 gallons, 16 lbs of stabilizer would get you to 70 CYA, which sounds right for a SWG.
    ~~ Allison ~~
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    Re: Pool chemistry?

    Well my original question still stands. I had the overfill, then pump out, now over filled by rain. Should I just wait it out or pump it down again and sort things out. All this effects what to do with the chemical levels. If I am to pump it down, the way I look at it, I shouldnt get to caught up in the current amounts. It could be conceivable that the cya has decreased since I pumped out a few inches. But yes I originally calculated the cya and put in a bit less for the time being.
    15,000 gallon, IG Diamond Brite plaster, Hayward Max Flo 1.5HP pump, Pentair Clean and Clear 100gpm cartridge filter. http://imgur.com/xHFxE

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Pool chemistry?

    If the water level is over the skimmer, then the surface will not be skimmed. I would at least lower the water level down to where the surface is entering the skimmmer and then call it good ... although no real harm in leaving it I do not think?

    Is it above or in ground? Add your pool details to your signature for reference.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
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