Equipment layout pictures wanted

iom

0
May 30, 2012
23
Tempe, AZ
Please publish equipment layout.
I am stragling to do efficient layout for s simple pool. No fountains. I woul dlike option for solar.
I also plan on using sand filter (I do not want maintenance of other types), backwashing into a bag filter and feeding it back to the pool. Where I should have check valves? How to avoidn draining the pump during basket cleaout. Agonizing about piping the multiport valve. I read it has 6 positions - but how many ports does it have and where are they and what for? :shock:
Pictures pictures pictures please.
 
Take a breath, it's ok. The multiport valve is just a valve that sits on top (or side) of the sand filter. There's only three pipes coming out of the filter, in, out, and waste. The various positions of the valve move water inside the filter in different directions. Back wash, rinse, bypass, etc. has nothing to do with how many puppies (edit-don't you love autocorrect? Puppies = pipes) you need to attach. I'll go out and snap a picture of mine for you right now.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
 
Here's the multiport valve, let me see if I can remember all the positions. Filter, waste, recirculate, back wash, rinse,winter, and closed. (yay me!) These positions just dictate the way the water moves internally in the filter. Not all multi port valves have all these positions.

As far as the rest of your questions, some one will be along momentarily. I do not have solar and other things to be able to answer them. :grin:

The two hoses on the left, one comes from the pump, the other goes to the pool. The blue hose on the right is waste. I've never heard of running waste water through a bag and back into the pool. Can't imagine that's a good idea, but I'll defer to someone else.

4a0583ed-8be0-e334.jpg


Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
 
One more thing, we're going to have to know what kind of pool, how big, what pump, etc. to answer these questions.

To stop the pump from draining, and I'm assuming you have an above ground, I just put my filter in the closed position, then take the hose off of the pump that's coming from the skimmer and quickly bend it back up into the top of the skimmerto stop that from pouring out of the pool. You can also put valves on the skimmer. If you're hard piping the pool, valves are a must. If it's an in ground pool, I do believe you need valves too, but I'll also defer that to other people.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
 
Kias said:
One more thing, we're going to have to know what kind of pool, how big, what pump, etc. to answer these questions.

To stop the pump from draining, and I'm assuming you have an above ground, I just put my filter in the closed position, then take the hose off of the pump that's coming from the skimmer and quickly bend it back up into the top of the skimmer to stop that from pouring out of the pool. You can also put valves on the skimmer. If you're hard piping the pool, valves are a must. If it's an in ground pool, I do believe you need valves too, but I'll also defer that too other people.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

I have 22,100 gal in ground pool. I am planning on Hayward EcoStar pump, I have Triton II TR60 Clear Pro (gravel, sand, zeo,sand) (I know TR100 would be better). I am re-piping above and below ground from 1.5" to 2" and doing sweeps instead of elbows. Added separate 2" suction line for Baracuda.

The backwash into a bag filter and back into the pool should work as the bag filter works as good as sand (it just has lesser capacity), but it should save me on water and chemistry bills.
 
Ok, I think that diagram is a good start, some one will be along to help you with the barracuda line, and to smack me into submission if I'm wrong about anything so far. :cry:

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
 

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This was how I laid mine out. I struggled to find decent pics on the internet. I too have the multi-valve. Directly to the left of the multi-valve I installed a backwash pipe that leads to a drain. I keep the basket from emptying by shutting the one valve going into the heater and the skimmer line. The bypass is already closed. The water in the lines have nowhere to go. I have put unions in front of each piece of equipment so I can disconnect it and take it in the house at end of the season. I don't leaving anything out. It laterally takes 15 minutes to disconnect the gas, electric, and all the equipment (pump,heater,chlorinator, & piping). The multi-port valve stays connected to the heater that is stored in heated garage. I built a small table that I set over top of the heater and stack the filter on top of. The pump is drained and stored in basement.

It does take about a half hour to reinstall everything but, It's worth it.
 

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