I have my results from my K-2006 kit

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doublewide6

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May 30, 2012
243
Allentown, PA
I have waited a week to get my kit and now I have it. The pool looks clear but not crystal clear. I can see the drains 8 foot area really well.
PH 7.6
FC 2.0
CC 3.0
TA 120
CYA 15ish (can see the dot all the way up, but is cloudy)
CH 180

I bought all the chemicals, so what order should I add them I am starting tomorrow morning, so I can test every hour. I know I need to shock with bleach, am I using the calculator correctly? Target 10 FC 2.0 I'm getting 3.5 96oz. jugs. I guess (cya / conditioner) would be added after the water is shocked? Thanks again for the help I love the website and forum :goodjob:
 
You have more than .5 CC and water that is not crystal clear, so you need to shock your pool.

You can find the details of how to do that in Pool School, under How To "Shock Your Pool"

They might recommend you add a little cya prior to shocking, to help maintain your chlorine level as long as possible, but you wouldn't want to go too high. The higher your CYA level, the higher your FC level needs to be to shock your pool
 
You are using the Pool Calculator correctly for raising your FC from 2 to 10.

Is CC really 3.0 or is TC, total chlorine, 3.0? TC=FC+CC. Either way you should raise the FC to 10 minimum and follow the shock process. Don't let the FC drop below 10 while shocking.

I would also add enough CYA to bring it up to 30 if this is an outdoor pool and increase the FC to a minimum of 12 while shocking.
 
Thanks for the help, so it would be best to raise the cya first than shock the pool tomorrow? FC is 2.0, CC 3.0 TC is 5.0. In the k2006 test kit you can run the chlorine test using 10ml or 25ml on the large comparitor which is more accurate? Thanks
 
Sure, add CYA now/soon, and start shocking tomorrow. There are several ways to do it, that is probably the best.

Use the 10 ml sample, so that each drop is 0.5. They are both equally accurate, but the 25 ml sample is more precise. However, there is no use for that level of precision, and the 10 ml sample saves on reagents.
 
dw6,

Take another tour through Pool School. read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry". Then read "How to Shock Your Pool".

You may or may not use some or all of those "ingredients" but you need to gain an understanding of what each one does.
 
Dave,

I am familiar with the ABC's of water chemistry document. I found it very helpful in fact I printed it out and brought it with me to walmart, so I would know what I was looking for. I picked up the chemicals/products just to have on hand if needed. I really am impressed by this site I read about lowering TA and raising PH with aeration and was surprised with the positive results. The pool store told me in the past to have lots of people splashing to try to help lower the TA. And, I actually believed them?

So the pool has been opened since Memorial day weekend, Now I have to get it shocked. I added 4 gallons of bleach today and will be monitoring the FC, TC, and CC all day each hour. I also took the time to brush the pool (I bet this is the most skipped step.)
 

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So when scooping the powder in the test are they level scoops or mounds? Also should all of the powder completely dissolve before I add the drops? I notice there is a little bit on the bottom not dissolved. Thanks for your help. As far as the shocking pattern does this look normal par for the course?
 
doublewide6 said:
So when scooping the powder in the test are they level scoops or mounds? Also should all of the powder completely dissolve before I add the drops? I notice there is a little bit on the bottom not dissolved. Thanks for your help. As far as the shocking pattern does this look normal par for the course?
Click to expand...
I use one rounded scoop, sometimes it partially goes onto the handle. A couple granules undissolved means you are using enough.

If you're losing less each interval, it's going right.
 

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