Algae problem

blian

0
Jun 5, 2012
7
Fort Myers, FL
Tested the pool with my new TF-100 test kit.

Salt is 3200ppm
FC 2.0
PH 8.2 (high as it can measure)
CC 0
TA 70
CH 540 (Whoa 2nd Year for the plaster pool maybe?)
CYA The dot was still there at full tube.
Temp 85 - Normal for here. Heat pump is not on.

I am having some small (less than dime sized) algae spots on the pool surface. I have cleaned the SWG.

I have a problem with high PH all the time. I have to add acid (muriatic) almost daily to keep the PH down.

I need to shock the pool (bleach) but I also need to add CYA to get a reading. Should I add stabilizer first then shock?

Any suggestions???

Thanks
 
:wave: Welcome :wave:

Sounds like you kind of "get it" :goodjob:

#1: Lower pH to the lower 7s
#2: Add CYA to get up around 30ppm
#3: Go through the Shocking Your Pool process (make sure you turn off the SWG for the OCLT) ... remember that the pH test is not accurate with FC > 10ppm
#4: After passing the 3 tests to stop shocking, raise CYA up to the 60-80ppm range and dial in your SWG
 
Congrats on the new test kit! You are on your way to a trouble free pool!

This is the order I would do things:
1) get pH to about 7.5
2) get your CYA to 20-30
3) shock pool

EDIT: Jason beat me, but oh well...I second his advice!
 
blian said:
Thanks. On my way to get the stabilizer and bleach. I will go easy on the PH adjustment now since the stabilizer should lower the PH some.

Very good catch :goodjob:

Although if you add enough stabilizer to add 30ppm, that will only lower you pH by 0.56 ... and you may be well over 8.2, so you should definitely get some acid while your are out.
 
Quick question. When will the stabilizer show its "true" level for shock purposes?

I know it takes a while for the stabilizer to show on the CYA test. I put 1.5 lb of stabilizer (granular) in a stocking in my skimmer yesterday afternoon. It is most of the way gone now. I want to add another 1.5lb to get me where I need to be (going slow to prevent CYA overload). When is the level ok to test for shocking purposes?
 
Turned the pump on 24 hours from 10. Added .5 gallon 6% bleach, .5 gallon muriatic acid and 1.5lb CYA. New test results:

FC - 9.5
PH - 7.2
CC - 0
CYA - cloudy but could still see the dot.
Temp 86

Concentrating on these for the shock process. The CYA I added is mostly consumed I will be adding an additional 1.5 lbs. I am shooting a little shy of the pool calculator so as not to overshoot my 30 CYA mark.

Pics to come as soon as the camera recharges.
 
blian said:
Turned the pump on 24 hours from 10. Added .5 gallon 6% bleach, .5 gallon muriatic acid and 1.5lb CYA. New test results:

FC - 9.5
PH - 7.2
CC - 0
CYA - cloudy but could still see the dot.

Concentrating on these for the shock process. The CYA I added is mostly consumed I will be adding an additional 1.5 lbs. I am shooting a little shy of the pool calculator so as not to overshoot my 30 CYA mark.
CYA will not be 'consumed' by anything. Water replacement will bring CYA down. Keep in mind that it can take up to one week for CYA to show up on your test. Keep track of how much you add, and trust the pool calculator for added values. :goodjob:
 

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Pictures


See the circled spots on the picks. I keep getting more of them. Brushing them removes some but leaves a green layer. Not nearly as bad as some of the horror stories I see here but a problem none the less.

Latest. No bleach added. No MA added. Stockings are empty with 3lb of CYA in the pool.

Evening test @9PM ET
FC - 11.5
CC - 0

I turned off my SWG

Morning test at 5:50 AM ET
FC - 13
CC - 0
PH - 7.2

I attribute this to the CYA holding some of the FC. As the level of CYA increases the FC will increase a bit. I restarted my SWG

Tested again at noon ET
FC - 15.5
CC - 0

The sun has not been out for the last two days here. The sky has been heavy overcast. Not much FC burned off. I turned down my SWG by 10%. Still playing the waiting game for the CYA to dissolve.
 
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