Newbie posting Pool Pictures

Apr 2, 2011
30
I'm not sure what happend to my first post? Maybe moderator deleted it, not sure but this was my first post.

I have been a member for about a year and I finally have pics I would like to post.

I toyed with the idea of this project about 2 years ago when I found the wife in the back yard in a lawn chair with her feet in a bucket. I said "Oh **** no!", that was it and never looked back.

I did all the design work, plumbing, electrical, landscape, fence, light posts with speakers. The only thing I did not do, was the pool installation itself and the concrete. I worked with the local county inspectors who went above and beyond to help me through this project. They were great!

I would like to post a pic of the pump set up, which I found difficult to get ideas online from other people who have done this before. I hope these help others who may be interested in designing their own pump set-up.

I also struggled with perimeter lighting and sound as I did not want to attach to the house. I did not want traditional lighting with a new modern pool. Anything I looked up was either too fancy, costly, or out of the ordinary.

I decided I wanted the lighting and the sound on the same post. Kill two birds with one stone I guess. I made the 4 posts & ran the electrical and speaker wire to all four corners of the pool area. I have a garage style cabinet that I cover with a grill cover (when not in use) set up next to the steps. I keep a JVC 7.1 home audio receiver and powered sub in it. I ran 4 outdoor 100watt Klipsch speakers as well as a powered sub. The system looks good & rocks!

The pool itself is a 16 x 34 3.5' - 8' deep. I decided with the help of Hayward to run a 1-1/2hp Super 2 and glad I did. The turn over is about 6 hours. I bought all the pool equipment myself and as indicated before, installed it myself.

I kept all the equipment Hayward except for the Chlorine feeder. 2 reasons for going with the Rainbow feeder was It comes with 2" inlet & outlet fittings, which is what all the plumbing was set up as. I also liked the see through feeder. No guessing how many tablets are left. Hayward's feeder only goes up to 1-1/2" line in & out.

The Hayward Low NOx pool heater is fantastic and heats about a degree an hour when first starting in the morning. With the clear solar cover, the temp is maintained at 82 degrees and the heater comes on for a very short time if at all depending on the outside temperature. I think the combination of the 1-1/2hp Super 2 helps the temperature rise faster because of the quick turnover.

This is a always improving project that will continually keep me busy. I will say, It was a lot of work and I'm not sure I would do it again.

I smile every time I look out the back slider as I see our little paradise. Very rewarding!

knackll
 

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Thank you for sharing pictures! Very nice work! :goodjob:

knackll said:
I kept all the equipment Hayward except for the Chlorine feeder. 2 reasons for going with the Rainbow feeder was It comes with 2" inlet & outlet fittings, which is what all the plumbing was set up as. I also liked the see through feeder. No guessing how many tablets are left. Hayward's feeder only goes up to 1-1/2" line in & out.
Are tabs the primary way you are keeping chlorine in your pool? If so, do you test your water regularly? How is your CYA level?

knackll said:
I smile every time I look out the back slider as I see our little paradise. Very rewarding!
:party: :whoot: :party:
 
blakej said:
Thank you for sharing pictures! Very nice work! :goodjob:

knackll said:
I kept all the equipment Hayward except for the Chlorine feeder. 2 reasons for going with the Rainbow feeder was It comes with 2" inlet & outlet fittings, which is what all the plumbing was set up as. I also liked the see through feeder. No guessing how many tablets are left. Hayward's feeder only goes up to 1-1/2" line in & out.
Are tabs the primary way you are keeping chlorine in your pool? If so, do you test your water regularly? How is your CYA level?

I do give it a slight shock (Boost) after the swimming is done in the evening. I test it regularly and keep the PH & CYA adjusted as required. I will tell you that I seem to add PH to the pool based on the water test being done more often than I like to. I am a freak about the sterilization of the water.

I use a 5-way test kit when test my water. I have tried the strips and just don't seem to be comfortable with them.

My water has always been crystal clear and there is absolutely no eye burning what so ever as the ph is in the acceptable range.

The water smells good too!

Thank you!

knackll said:
I smile every time I look out the back slider as I see our little paradise. Very rewarding!
:party: :whoot: :party:
 
Looks really nice. Couple questions and notes:

Why did you not move the pump and heater forward about 4 inches to avoid the plumbing turns? Was it based on a desire for some certain length of straight pipe into the pump?

Also just a note to be careful with the ball valves. They have a tendency to get stiff and often the handles break off after a few years. The NeverLube type valves are rebuild-able and have a lifetime warranty ... but they do cost a bit more. Something to keep in mind in the future.

Just to reiterate: keep an eye on your CYA as it can go up faster than you think (especially if the "shock" you use is dichlor) If you have a short swim season and a lot of water replacement due to rain and winterizing, then using the tabs can certainly work well.
 
jblizzle said:
Looks really nice. Couple questions and notes:

Why did you not move the pump and heater forward about 4 inches to avoid the plumbing turns? Was it based on a desire for some certain length of straight pipe into the pump?

I thought about that, but it pushed the Chlorine feeder off the pad. I could of put the feeder at 90 degree but then I negate the 4"-6" forward with several more 90 degree elbows to the return lines. Hope that make sense. With a 1-1/2 hp pump, as it turns out, it didn't stifle the flow with the existing ninety degree elbows that exist.

Also just a note to be careful with the ball valves. They have a tendency to get stiff and often the handles break off after a few years. The NeverLube type valves are rebuild-able and have a lifetime warranty ... but they do cost a bit more. Something to keep in mind in the future.

Funny that you mention that, as I started to repurchase all the new plumbing to replace those "big box store" cheap valves with the serviceable valves you mention. The only problem with the ball valves is the valve in between the inlet and outlet of the Hayward heater. There is not much room for a bypass valve.
I am going to replace those valves as you suggest unfortunately. It should only take about an hour. I already bought the new heater flanges. Note the correct valves going to the pump.


Just to reiterate: keep an eye on your CYA as it can go up faster than you think (especially if the "shock" you use is dichlor) If you have a short swim season and a lot of water replacement due to rain and winterizing, then using the tabs can certainly work well.

I definitely will. Thanks for the advice!!

Knackll
 
Agreed that a few turns is not a huge factor ... and I had not considered the chlorinator plumbing.

The valves going to the pump are NOT the type I was referring too ... those can have the same problems, but at least you can pull the valve out.

Do a quick search for Neverlube and you will see the type designed for pool plumbing with the lifetime warranty and re-buildable seals.
 
jblizzle said:
Agreed that a few turns is not a huge factor ... and I had not considered the chlorinator plumbing.

The valves going to the pump are NOT the type I was referring too ... those can have the same problems, but at least you can pull the valve out.

I realize you were referring to the valves by the heater. I was just referencing that the valves going to the pump can come out without moding the existing lines. I will check them out. Thanks again for the info!!

Do a quick search for Neverlube and you will see the type designed for pool plumbing with the lifetime warranty and re-buildable seals.
 
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