New BBB pool opening. CSI/pitting?

[rgkpool]

Hello,

I'm a second year pool owner, however last year the pool was opened by the previous owner. I've been reading this board for the past year, but regretfully only used bioguard products last year on recommendations of the previous owner. Well I was never satisfied with the quality of my water, for the money invested in pool store recommended chemicals. Worst of all I never had reliable testing as I only used strips and pool store testing and therefore never understood what was really going on in my pool. This year I said enough is enough, I'm actually going to try this BBB I've been reading all about, and purchased the TF100 and many gallons of bleach.

Today I pulled the cover off, though i should have been more careful as I spilled a fair amount of pollen and stagnant water into the pool (see pictures below.). The water was crystal clear as I was pulling back the cover, so I'm hoping it will not take much to get the pool clear again
[attachment=1:21j7pz4c]photo.JPG[/attachment:21j7pz4c]

I do not have time tonight to get the DE in the filter, test the, and to bring the pool to shock level and maintain it that way over night. If I let the pool sit with no circulation until tomorrow, will I live to regret it? I'd rather hit it hard tomorrow night? When I do get my first test results I will post to the board for advice.

Also, when I opened the pool I noticed there are plaster areas that seem to be wearing away. Is this potential pitting from previous calcium hardness, and CSI problems?
[attachment=0:21j7pz4c]photo(1).JPG[/attachment:21j7pz4c]

 

[JamesW]

You will be fine waiting until tomorrow. Post your test results when you get them, and we will be better able to advise you.

The plaster damage looks like it might be from ice. Did the water freeze? If yes, how thick?

 

[rgkpool]

The plaster damage looks like it might be from ice. Did the water freeze? If yes, how thick?

I live in New England so you can't avoid some freezing. I got a rule pump in order to keep the Ice away, but one way or another I ended up with an inch to 2 maximum. Would that much ice potentially do this kind of damage? The previous owner was an older man, who had a hard time keeping up with household tasks, so I'm wondering if in years past more ice was left sitting. I honestly do not remember if these area looked this way last pool season.

If it is ice damage, what does it take to fix it, and how soon do I NEED to do so?

 

[JamesW]

The damage appears to be only in a narrow band where a lower winter water level would be. If it were a water chemistry issue, then the damage would be more uniform over the entire pool. I am pretty sure that it is from ice, unless there is more damage to the plaster than just in that narrow band.

A lot depends on how much stress the ice put on the plaster and concrete. The plaster might have become delaminated in that band. If you tap on the area with the plastic end of a screwdriver, then you can listen to hear if the plaster sounds solid or hollow.

Delaminated plaster can tend to spread. Sometimes it's best to address it by cutting out the delaminations and patching, and sometimes it isn't, depending on the exact circumstances. The damaged areas can be superficially patched to improve the appearance.

It's not likely that the gunite shell sustained damage, but it's possible. Watch for any structural cracks that might develop. Again, it may, or may not, be worth addressing depending on the exact circumstances. If cracks are leaking, then they can be cut and patched.

 

[rgkpool]

Since I didnt have time to start shocking, I've spent the time I do have to get the pump running and to let the DE Filter work on all the pollen in the pool, and to vacuum the pool as well as I could. Im actually fairly surprised what a difference that made without adding a single chemical to the pool yet (see image at bottom of post).

I also began to take my first attempt at testing with my TF100. I think I made a few mistakes, and will potentially need to retest after having referenced the extended test directions. Here is what I have so far.

PH - 7.2 (should I try to raise this before shocking?)
FC - 0 (using OTO. Do I need to use the FAS-DPD if I know my FC is at 0? Is there any benefit to testing for CC at this point? Its seems like a waste of reagent.)
CYA - 1st attempt 75, 2nd attempt 55 (I think the temp may affect this test - but by how much? This pool has been treated with Triclor pucks for a very long time - so its possible it is this high from years past. However, It seems very high considering I had just filled the pool from winterized level with town water. I tend to back wash a lot as well since I have an older DE filter)
CH - 240 (sample turned purple. Seems like a fading endpoint? I will retest by adding 5 drops of R-0012 before adding R-0010 and R-0011L)
TA - Did not have a chance to test (ran out of time)
Temp - COLD (did not measure but we've had a cold snap the past few days)

At this point I think I will wait until Friday night to begin shocking, as it looks like I will need a fair amount of bleach to hit shock levels with such a high CYA reading. The last thing I want is to let it get below shock level because I ran out of bleach (and time). So I have time to adjust PH, etc if needed.

[attachment=0:5n1v4h12]photo(2).JPG[/attachment:5n1v4h12]

 

[JamesW]

Even if you can't begin a proper shocking process, it would still be good to begin adding some chlorine. The longer you wait, the more problem it will be to clear up.

 

[rgkpool]

If I assume a CYA of 60 (again Im not confident in my results) I'd have to go to a 24ppm shock based on the Chlorine / CYA chart. Using the pool calc I get about 7 gallons. Considering I have a fairly high CYA - could I get away with doing this in the AM, and then retesting after 8-12 hours later, and then bringing back to shock levels? Everything Ive read has said 1) its best to add overnight to prevent FC loss to sun (not that there has been much of that lately) and 2) to test after 1/2 to 1 hour increments after first shocking. Also, Ive been having to backwash frequently so Im wondering if adding FC will do much good if it doesn't circulate.

I have 7 182 once jugs and 7 96 once jugs on hand to work with.

I'd be happy to go dump them in now - but I have a 7 week old daughter who require all my attention.

 

[JamesW]

could I get away with doing this in the AM, and then retesting after 8-12 hours later, and then bringing back to shock levels?

Yes, that's fine. The timing isn't critical.

Also, Ive been having to backwash frequently so Im wondering if adding FC will do much good if it doesn't circulate.

Adding the FC will help, with or without circulation. It will actually improve circulation, and reduce your frequency of backwashing, because the algae and organics will be reduced.

 

[rgkpool]

I was able to add 4 182 oz bottles of 6% bleach this AM before work, which should be sufficient to bring my FC to 17ppm (Is this high enough?). I will do the FAS-DPD when I get home this evening to get my loss over the day, first CC reading, and will bring back to shock of 17.

I will also retest my CYA, as I think the temperature may be to blame for the high number. Over the winter I had 3 Winter Floaters. Does anyone know what is in these? I could not find anything on the website: http://www.bioguard.com/Our_Products/Of ... Floater_WP

The water is looking very clear so if there isnt anything "bad" in the winter floaters - I will use them again next year. What does BBB recommend for closing checmicals? I paid a pool company to close for me last year.

 

[rgkpool]

Also - If the Winter floater is just trichlor (which is what I suspect), why didn't I have any FC in my original test? The floaters were not completely disolved, so I'd expect that the should still have been adding chlorine (and CYA - which is likely the reason why my CYA is higher than I'd like).

 

[rgkpool]

Tested when I got home this evening. First I did an OTO just to see what it would look like with a high FC. I was surprised to find 0 ppm FC. Well I guess that means my pool consumed it right? My CYA is 50 (I retested and I'm more confident this time) so I think it's unlikely the sun consumed it over the day.

I added enough beach (8 96oz jugs) to get to a 19ppm.
Then waited a half hour and tested FAS-DPD. Now I get 24 ppm FC and 1 ppm CC.

Is it possible that I'm doing OTO wrong, since it seems there was at least some FC remaining as evidenced by overshooting what 8 jugs of beach should bring the FC too?

The 1 ppm of CC is a good sign right? Or will it still go up before it starts to go down?

I will retest and bring to 20 ppm again in the am. The water is already looking very clear, and my backwash frequency reduced today.....but I think I'm a long way from an Overnight loss test.