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Thread: No FC 2

  1. Back To Top    #1

    No FC 2

    Can't seem to get rid of the cloudy water.

    Pool company says to add 20 bags of Calcium hypochlorite shock all at once

    Just shocked it again with 2 gallons of liquid 6% plus 2 pounds of dichlor to get the CYA up a little and the ph down Any suggestions?

    Saturation index .5
    TDS 600
    CYA 25
    TC 5.5
    FC 0
    PH 7.7
    TA 206
    Total hardness 230
    Borox ~ 7 ppm (just started using it)
    Volume 19200 gallons in-ground

  2. Back To Top    #2
    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: No FC 2

    Welcome to TFP!

    You should read the section on how to shock your pool in Pool School. You need to be adding more chlorine at frequent intervals until you can maintain and FC level.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  3. Back To Top    #3
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: No FC 2

    Welcome

    Wow are pool companies can be scary.

    20 bags would raise your FC between 59ppm and 90ppm depending on the concentration ... than just seems like a bad idea. Also, cal-hypo has been know to make the water cloudy by itself.

    How did you get your test results? Controlling your pool without a good kit (see recommended ones in my sig) is difficult.

    According to you results you have 0 FC and 5.5 CC ... is that right? Did you just open the pool and find that you lost a lot of CYA?

    Review the Shocking Your Pool process since you have high CC and something that is consuming your FC. This may be difficult as even with a CYA of 25ppm, your FC shock level to stay above is 11ppm ... does your kit test that high?
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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  4. Back To Top    #4
    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: No FC 2

    Those look like Pool Store Test Results.....

    But it's obvious you have a problem from the high Combined Chlorine - that's Total Chlorine minus Free Chlorine. You need to shock - verb, not noun - and expect it to take several days to a couple weeks.

    First order of business is get a proper test kit. Skip the article, go order a TF100 with the XL option. I also recommend a speedstir. It saves on shipping to get it now, and no one who has one wishes they hadn't bought it.

    Once the test kit is ordered, start reading in Pool School. Basics of Chemistry, everything, really, and especially How to shock your pool.

    Adding chemicals without having good test results is like painting in a pitch black room.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: No FC 2

    I have a TF100 test kit. I'm crosschecking results with 2 different pool companies who use different computerized tests. The CYA was 90. I did a partial water replace that should have brought CYA to 60. The CYA dropped to about that, then dropped to below 20 within a day. The pool has a solar cover, and the area of the country I am in is one of the most overcast in the country. I'm assuming the replies above mean I should continue to incrementally shock the pool, not a massive OD.

  6. Back To Top    #6
    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: No FC 2

    Exactly. Keep the FC level up high enough to kill the algae faster than it can reproduce. Constantly, not a one-time shot. You're medicating your pool; you wouldn't take a whole bottle of antibiotics in one shot to kill an infection, you space them out for several days.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Re: No FC 2

    there's no algae. It's cloudy.

  8. Back To Top    #8
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: No FC 2

    Cloudy could be due to something living in the water. And if you have 5.5 combined chlorine (like you stated ... are you sure you typed the correct letters?), obviously something in your pool needs a lot more FC to get rid of it. We can only go by the data you give us.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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  9. Back To Top    #9

    Re: No FC 2

    FC back to almost 0
    TC is now at 18

  10. Back To Top    #10
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: No FC 2

    Describe how you get those numbers and what you think they mean. Still not sure they are the correct letters.

    Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
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  11. Back To Top    #11

    Re: No FC 2

    I just realized that I should have been using CC not TC.
    FC is 0
    CC is at 18

  12. Back To Top    #12
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: No FC 2

    With FC of 0 you were actually correct both ways

    With the dropping CYA and high CC it seems like you could have an active case of bacteria converting the CYA to ammonia and thus high CC ... usually not witnessed as it occurs over winter.

    The solution is just more chlorine.

    Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
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  13. Back To Top    #13
    linen's Avatar
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    Re: No FC 2

    Quote Originally Posted by gtsdls
    I just realized that I should have been using CC not TC.
    FC is 0
    CC is at 18
    Please check those numbers for us one more time. Are you sure that the FC (free chlorine) is 0 and the CC (combined chlorine) is 18?
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  14. Back To Top    #14
    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: No FC 2

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    Quote Originally Posted by gtsdls
    Are you sure that the FC (free chlorine) is 0 and the CC (combined chlorine) is 18?
    If so, you need to shock the pool. While, if they are the other way around you are doing well.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  15. Back To Top    #15

    Re: No FC 2

    It was 18 CC, dropped to 5 at 7AM and I shocked it again.

    Now have FC 4, CC .5 and can see the bottom of the pool.

    It took 6 shock treatments to bring it down. I used 10 gallons liquid chlorine & 14 dichlor plus Borox depending on test results to keep the rest of the numbers in range.

  16. Back To Top    #16
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: No FC 2

    You need to follow the Shocking Your Pool process until you are sure everything is gone ... what is your CYA now that you have added a bunch of dichlor (how much did you add 14 lbs?)? Need to know that to know the appropriate FC level to maintain ... both for shocking and when just maintaining the pool.

    Post another full set of test results.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  17. Back To Top    #17

    Re: No FC 2

    Quote Originally Posted by gtsdls
    It was 18 CC, dropped to 5 at 7AM and I shocked it again.

    Now have FC 4, CC .5 and can see the bottom of the pool.

    It took 6 shock treatments to bring it down. I used 10 gallons liquid chlorine & 14 dichlor plus Borox depending on test results to keep the rest of the numbers in range.
    Shocking the pool faq isnt clear on this point. You dont "shock" your pool. You do keep your FC at shock levels at all time. If your shock level of FC is 20 (for your CYA level) then you need to keep your FC above 20 at all times. This could mean adding Chlorine every 30 minutes. To keep it at 20 at all times you might need to take the level to 30 so the next time you check it is still above 20.
    17,800 gallon, IG pool, 595 sq feet (17x35x4.5 avg rectangle), Hayward 525 cartridge filter, diamondbrite, 2 hp 2 speed hayward tristar filter, Stenner 45mhp10 automatically chlorinating

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