Is there an easy way to remove the KK adapter for the...

amati5

Well-known member
Sep 13, 2011
233
So Cal
automatic regulator valve from the pool skimmer hole. I installed this when I just bought the kk years ago but I never needed it since I use the plate over the skimmer baskekt. Now I want to remove it to increase the flow. I think it's threaded but I don't remember if the skimmer hole was threaded, I might have just pushed it in. I used duct tape to wrap around the end of the pole to make a cone shape, pressed into the hole and turn at the same time but it wouldn't move budge even with that much torque.

Do most skimmer holes have threads? Any idea or available tool to remove this?
Thanks
 
As John said, the skimmer is threaded. On the bottom of the KK regulator, there is a push in cone connector. So either you just wiggle the regulator back and forth so that it come out and leaves the cone and the threaded insert in the skimmer, or you try and grab the adapter at the base and unscrew everything at once. I think it is easier to wiggle and remove the regulator, and then reach in and unscrew the threaded portion. It should have been installed with teflon tape and only hand tight and you should not need any tools to remove.
 
No I don't but I can take one tonight. At the bottom of the skimmer there are 2 holes. I think one is coming from the bottom of the pool which is plugged right now (to use the KK). The other one is coming from the pump and it's the one that has the adapter on. I am not sure if this is standard config but I as I rememeber, It wasn't that easy to install the KK hose until I bought the plate to use over the skimmer basket. I like this set up anyway (to screen the debries before they enter the pump basket).
 
Mk KK adapter is in 2 sections.
The threaded compression adapter that screws into the skimmer. And the regulator valve.
31ZTEvG28JL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


Pull the regulator off, then unscrew the compression adapter.
 
jmhjgh said:
As John said, the skimmer is threaded. On the bottom of the KK regulator, there is a push in cone connector. So either you just wiggle the regulator back and forth so that it come out and leaves the cone and the threaded insert in the skimmer, or you try and grab the adapter at the base and unscrew everything at once. I think it is easier to wiggle and remove the regulator, and then reach in and unscrew the threaded portion. It should have been installed with teflon tape and only hand tight and you should not need any tools to remove.

I can't plug the regulator directly to the suction hole because of the way my skimmer set up but I started with the 45 degree adaptor that has the cone fitting and then the pole as I mentioned above which generated a lot of torque. I am not sure if I used teflon tape when I install it. I might have to cut it off with a saw, with the risk of damaging the threads on the hole.
 
Is there room to turn the regulator and 45 degree fitting to loosen the adapter? The top part of Westsidepool's picture is friction fit into the regulator and will pull out. Then you should have room for a water pump pliers to loosen the adapter in the skimmer. Cutting would be your very last resort.
 
Maybe you can run to you local automotive store buy a tailpipe expander (small enough to fit in the compression adapter) to allow you to get a good seal on it, to be able to turn it?
images


The other item I have that sorta of works is a strap wrench, but these might be harder to get into the skimmer to work with.
l_382100015_1.jpg
 
Once I plug in the 45 degree , I won't have much room for almost anything except a short pipe that I stick in to get a little more leverage. The pole wrapped with duct tape gives a good torque but at the same time I have to press it down to get the friction while turning. I will look into the tailpipe tool or something with a cone shape like the 45 degree fitting but straight and longer.
 
Got it out. I used an old bike tube, cut up one section and slide over the pole end to create friction. Cut a long strip and wrapped over same area with gradua thickness like a cone shape. Wrapped duct tape at the end to hold the rubber from unwinding itself. Stuck it in there, hammered it down lightly and twisted the pole with a channel lock. It sure took quite an effort but it came off. Apparently I used teflon tape on the wrong section. Thank you for all the responses.

[attachment=1:32lmlwg0]skimmer.jpg[/attachment:32lmlwg0]
[attachment=0:32lmlwg0]adapter out.jpg[/attachment:32lmlwg0]
 

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Thanks. The skimmer plate works well. It allows me to use a skimmer bag to screen out the dirt before it enter the filter (I used to have DE and it was a pain to keep the flow going freely to the heater) but the KK seems to put air in the system. I have 2-speed pump and I use the lower one. Without the KK, it's perfect but with the KK hooked up, I see the flow is much less through the pump basket and my heater's normal light is off. I would think there are leaks along the hose but it's strange that couple of times when the KK doesn't move (I think because the low speed barely pulls enough flow) and I see more water comes in pump basket and no air in the system. I assume that when the KK doesn't move because the flow valve (the block at the opening) doesn't move and the flow is more consistent this way. With the flow valve moving (when it works normaly), the flow is restricted and air is sucked in through very small leaks which otherwise are ok. That was why I decide to remove the fitting hopefully to remove the flow restriction.
 
Got it out. I used an old bike tube, cut up one section and slide over the pole end to create friction. Cut a long strip and wrapped over same area with gradua thickness like a cone shape. Wrapped duct tape at the end to hold the rubber from unwinding itself. Stuck it in there, hammered it down lightly and twisted the pole with a channel lock. It sure took quite an effort but it came off. Apparently I used teflon tape on the wrong section. Thank you for all the responses.

[attachment=1:32lmlwg0]skimmer.jpg[/attachment:32lmlwg0]
[attachment=0:32lmlwg0]adapter out.jpg[/attachment:32lmlwg0]

Thank you so much for this suggestion. Your photos showed my exact problem. Using you great idea, I got a wooden closet rod, wrapped the end with about 10 turns of "gaffers" tape (which is a very strong cloth version of duck/duck tape), and... success.

Thank you!
 
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