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Thread: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

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    need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    I started opening the pool 6 days ago, I have an 18 foot above ground pool with swg and cartridge filter.

    First I added 10 litre of Purox (10% hypochlorite) then added my salt to bring back to right level.

    after 3 days of running pump 24hr a day and cleaning filter once a day as well as vacuming, the water cleared up pretty good, but still cloudy, could not see the drain.

    after the shock treatment wore off the SWG wasnt maintaining the FC so I added CYA, then water started to clear a little more, I can now see the drain a little.

    It has been in this state for almost 3 days, all readings are good and FC is at 3.

    my questions is should I try to shock the pool once more? or will the SWG produce enough chlorine to clear up the pool in time??

    thanks in adviance

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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    Shocking is a process, not a product. Please read through the shock process in pool school.
    pool-school/shocking_your_pool
    If your pool was not maintaining FC overnight, you weren't done shocking. It is normal to lose FC during the day.

    I would not depend on normal FC to clear your pool. The SWG is only there to maintain normal FC, not for shocking. You'll need bleach for shocking.
    Built in 1957 44,000 gallon in-ground, Wet Edge Primera Stone in Sky Blue, Intelliflo VF Pump, 600 lb. Pentair Triton II TR-100 Sand Filter, CircuPool RG 60 Plus SWG, TF-100 test kit
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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    I see, my bad, I though that you only shock the pool once in the beginning..

    so if my pool is at FC = 3 I can shock to 24 again? ex: add anothe 6L of 10% hypochlorite

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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    Quote Originally Posted by pacman19777
    I see, my bad, I though that you only shock the pool once in the beginning..
    Shock is not a one-time application of chemicals. It is a process of maintaining a high chlorine level to eliminate all organics from your pool.

    Read Pool School and specifically the shocking your pool link that Robbie referenced above.
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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    Quote Originally Posted by pacman19777
    I see, my bad, I though that you only shock the pool once in the beginning..

    so if my pool is at FC = 3 I can shock to 24 again? ex: add anothe 6L of 10% hypochlorite
    Yes, you can (and should) shock the pool properly. I am not sure if 24 if the correct FC to shock your pool, because I do not know your CYA level. Do you have your own test kit? If you post full test results, we can help get you off to the right start. Just make sure you maintain shock level FC until your pool is clear and you pass the OCLT!

    PS welcome to TFP!

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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    What is oclt?

    My cya is at about 60

    Also in shocking process it says CC needs to be below 0.5 how do you test for CC. I don't remember any pool store giving CC results, it's usually only FC

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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    Quote Originally Posted by pacman19777
    I don't remember any pool store giving CC results, it's usually only FC
    CC stands for combined chlorine and it can show up when chlorine is attacking organics (like algae) in the pool water. For you to be most effective at the shocking process you will need a good test kit. See this link: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...kit_comparison

    I like the tf-100 and it has fast shipping.

    Quote Originally Posted by pacman19777
    What is oclt?
    Overnight Chlorine Loss Test See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...rnight_fc_test
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    Hi guys, so i contnued to shock pool, added about 6Litres of 10% hypochlorite, then this morning went to the pool store to test, and they were almost shocked how much chlorine was in my pool. They said everything else was in balance apart from the excesive chlorine

    Here is somethine weird that hopefully someone can explain, when i test the FC if i put one drop it goes orange, but if i put 5 drops it goes dark yellow, it this normal??

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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    I'm dying to go swimming, would it be a bad idea, should I wait for chlorine level to go down?

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    Quote Originally Posted by pacman19777
    Here is somethine weird that hopefully someone can explain, when i test the FC if i put one drop it goes orange, but if i put 5 drops it goes dark yellow, it this normal??
    That is not an FC test. That sounds like an OTO TC (total chlorine) test.

    Repeat your chlorine test with an FAS-DPD FC test and post your results.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    Ok according to my test kit it is the "chlorine residual test" so does it sound normal the deference in color based on the amount of drops, I would have thought the more drops the darker

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    What test kit do you have?
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    The test I have is just a cheap drop test kit for chlorine and p.h. I know I need to invest in a better one

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    Quote Originally Posted by pacman19777
    added about 6Litres of 10% hypochlorite, then this morning went to the pool store to test, and they were almost shocked how much chlorine was in my pool.
    So i get 6700 gallons for you pool assuming the actual water depth is 3.5 ft. Using poolcalculator.com i get a FC shock value of 18 ppm for 60 ppm cya. Your 6L of 10% would have raised you to about 24 ppm unless you still had some chlorine in the pool, then you would have been higher. And here is the problem, you do not want to drop below 18 ppm when shocking, so that usually means, once you get it up to your shock level, to maintain you need smaller and more often doses of chlorine to maintain the 18 FC mark (or 24 if you are using the cya/chlorine chart...either works).

    Hence the need for a test kit that can read FC above 5 ppm accurately, neither of which your current OTO TC test kit can do.

    It gets worse...to really know you have killed off all organics in your pool, you also need to know CC (combined chlorine) levels, since the presence of CC over 0.5 ppm is a sign of organics still being removed form your pool. Again, you need a FAS-DPD FC test to do this properly.

    And it gets even worse...one of the other criteria that indicates that the organics are gone is the Overnight chlorine loss test. This is typically (most effective) when FC is at shocking levels and requires a loss of less than 1 ppm overnight.

    Just my 2 cents in support of getting an appropriate test kit.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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