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Thread: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

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    need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    Shocking is a process, not a product. Please read through the shock process in pool school.
    pool-school/shocking_your_pool
    If your pool was not maintaining FC overnight, you weren't done shocking. It is normal to lose FC during the day.

    I would not depend on normal FC to clear your pool. The SWG is only there to maintain normal FC, not for shocking. You'll need bleach for shocking.
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    Smykowski's Avatar
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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    Quote Originally Posted by pacman19777
    I see, my bad, I though that you only shock the pool once in the beginning..
    Shock is not a one-time application of chemicals. It is a process of maintaining a high chlorine level to eliminate all organics from your pool.

    Read Pool School and specifically the shocking your pool link that Robbie referenced above.
    33' round, 23,000 gal AG vinyl , 1HP 2spd PowerFlo Matrix downsized with 3/4HP impeller (X2), Hayward S180T 150# sand filter (X2), Hayward H250 NG heater Pool Store year 1 - $850 for 2 months; Pool Store year 2 - $440 for 2 months, TFPC year 1 - $170 for 4 months; TFPC year 2 - $95 for 4.5 months
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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    Quote Originally Posted by pacman19777
    I see, my bad, I though that you only shock the pool once in the beginning..

    so if my pool is at FC = 3 I can shock to 24 again? ex: add anothe 6L of 10% hypochlorite
    Yes, you can (and should) shock the pool properly. I am not sure if 24 if the correct FC to shock your pool, because I do not know your CYA level. Do you have your own test kit? If you post full test results, we can help get you off to the right start. Just make sure you maintain shock level FC until your pool is clear and you pass the OCLT!

    PS welcome to TFP!

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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    Quote Originally Posted by pacman19777
    I don't remember any pool store giving CC results, it's usually only FC
    CC stands for combined chlorine and it can show up when chlorine is attacking organics (like algae) in the pool water. For you to be most effective at the shocking process you will need a good test kit. See this link: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...kit_comparison

    I like the tf-100 and it has fast shipping.

    Quote Originally Posted by pacman19777
    What is oclt?
    Overnight Chlorine Loss Test See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...rnight_fc_test
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    Quote Originally Posted by pacman19777
    Here is somethine weird that hopefully someone can explain, when i test the FC if i put one drop it goes orange, but if i put 5 drops it goes dark yellow, it this normal??
    That is not an FC test. That sounds like an OTO TC (total chlorine) test.

    Repeat your chlorine test with an FAS-DPD FC test and post your results.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    What test kit do you have?
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: need help opening the pool! water is cloudy

    Quote Originally Posted by pacman19777
    added about 6Litres of 10% hypochlorite, then this morning went to the pool store to test, and they were almost shocked how much chlorine was in my pool.
    So i get 6700 gallons for you pool assuming the actual water depth is 3.5 ft. Using poolcalculator.com i get a FC shock value of 18 ppm for 60 ppm cya. Your 6L of 10% would have raised you to about 24 ppm unless you still had some chlorine in the pool, then you would have been higher. And here is the problem, you do not want to drop below 18 ppm when shocking, so that usually means, once you get it up to your shock level, to maintain you need smaller and more often doses of chlorine to maintain the 18 FC mark (or 24 if you are using the cya/chlorine chart...either works).

    Hence the need for a test kit that can read FC above 5 ppm accurately, neither of which your current OTO TC test kit can do.

    It gets worse...to really know you have killed off all organics in your pool, you also need to know CC (combined chlorine) levels, since the presence of CC over 0.5 ppm is a sign of organics still being removed form your pool. Again, you need a FAS-DPD FC test to do this properly.

    And it gets even worse...one of the other criteria that indicates that the organics are gone is the Overnight chlorine loss test. This is typically (most effective) when FC is at shocking levels and requires a loss of less than 1 ppm overnight.

    Just my 2 cents in support of getting an appropriate test kit.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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