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Thread: Red & Green gone, What next?

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Near Cleveland, OH
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    2

    Red & Green gone, What next?

    Hi. First post.

    I've been spoiled with years of easy maintenance and few problems with the pool I installed in 2008. Every year when I open, water is clear and there is just junk and bugs on the bottom to vacuum; I'm up and running in no time. Not this year. Probably thanks to an extremely warm winter, water was green and it looked like someone spraypainted the steps and other surfaces slimy bright red, and I couldn't see the bottom of the shallow end. I added the 2 gal of 12.5% liquid chrlorine I had (having expected no science project in my pool) and went back for reinforcements 5 days later.

    Pool store suggested 32oz of Vanquish for red/pink "algae" and four more gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine. Having read some of your material, I bumped up the CYA to 60-70 and checked free chlorine first (close to 0). But green was gone and most of the red had turned grey before I added the Vanquish.

    I srubbed the steps and sides, added the Vanquish, and four hours later added the four gallons of chlorine at night. The next day, all the bad stuff was grey and free chlorine was low (1-2) but registering. pH was ~7.4. Water was cloudy/milky (couldn't see bottom of shallow).

    Over the next several days, I added ~6 gallons of 6% liquid Clorox. Free chlorine was always registering at least 2 the next day. Tonight, I added the last gallon of Clorox and paid more attention to the readings before & after. FC was 2 (~24 hours since last add), pH was 7.5, CYA was ~60. I have test strips only for alkalinity, it looked a little high at ~220. Water was maybe a little less cloudy, but still can't see bottom of shallow. With this last gallon, I did three things at once (proably not smart). I added the Clorox putting about 1/4 down skimmer (thinking I'd hit anything in the filter hard), I turned on the heater the first time (to keep temp warm enough for SWG), and turned on SWG for first time (@ 10%). Within several minutes most of the surface of the pool was covered in foam/bubbles. It dissapated in about an hour. A half hour after doing this, FC was over the max of my test kit (5) and pH was 7.5.

    My two main questions are:
    1) Is there something I can do about the cloudyness, or just be patient? Pump has been running nonstop during the ~50 hours since I added the Vanquish.
    2) What's up with the foam?

    Thanks for any advice. Sorry, I know my chemistry test capabilites aren't where you'd like them to be.

    Scott in Cleveland
    16x32, IG, 16,500 gal, vinyl liner
    Pentair 1 HP SuperFlow pump, Pentair Clean & Clear 420 ft2 cartridge
    200K BTU RayPak / Rheem gas heater
    Aqua Rite SWG, Auto pool cover

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
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    Re: Red & Green gone, What next?

    The vanquish is PolyDADMAC (PolydimethyldiallyammoniumChloride). It's a flocculant.
    Have you used any algaecides?

    Without the FAS-DPD test we can't be sure that you're done shocking so we can't say how long it may take to clear up, or if all the algae is dead.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

  3. Back To Top    #3

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    May 2012
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    Near Cleveland, OH
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    Re: Red & Green gone, What next?

    Yes. I used 32oz of GLB Algimycin 2000 with the initial 2 gal of 12.5% liquid chlorine. This had been my usual opening combination. Seeing all of the green & red when I opened, I knew this would not cut it. The Vanquish was suggested because of the red "algae", which I understand to be a bacteria issue. I've been spoiled and have never needed more than a TC and pH test to keep the pool crystal clear. I'm going to have to get some more sophisticated tests. Assuming everything is dead (I am reading Chlorine in the AM), any ideas on what I can try for the cloudiness before getting better testing? I sprayed out the filters tonite, but they didn't look too bad. Could my main drain be clogged? Thanks.
    16x32, IG, 16,500 gal, vinyl liner
    Pentair 1 HP SuperFlow pump, Pentair Clean & Clear 420 ft2 cartridge
    200K BTU RayPak / Rheem gas heater
    Aqua Rite SWG, Auto pool cover

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Red & Green gone, What next?

    Does not sound like you had the FC nearly high enough for the shock value for CYA of 60ppm. My guess is that it is not all dead. Review the shock process described in pool school.

    Also note we do not typically recommend raising the cya above 30 ppm until after the shock process is complete.

    Chlorine would gave taken care of everything and you could have saved your money on all the other floc and algaecides.

    Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: Red & Green gone, What next?

    The best thing you can do is keep the pump running 24/7 and get a good kit ordered today. You could run your swcg 24/7 while you're waiting on the kit. It probably won't cure the problem and it'll cost you a little in cell life but it'll help keep it from getting worse.

    The foaming is caused by the algaecide. It'll go away in a little while.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

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