Have a pentair IC40 on the way and wanted to hear any comments from owners. Starting to get worried I may not be able to turn it down enough. 10k gal pool, gets full sun from 11am to sunset.
IC 40 users
- Thread starter tjwaggoner
- Start date
Are you getting a Pentair branded automation system? If you do it will be easy to adjust the SWG down. Without the automation system you have to set in multiples of 20%, which limits how much you can adjust it dramatically.
I didnt order any automation system but its looking like i may need to....just wasnt really wanting to since my pump cant be controlled by it (at least I dont think so). I also dont have a timer installed so Im likely going to have to figure something out pretty soon.
Oh really. Thats nice to hear....thought I had to have a varible or 2 speed pump like the intelliflo to work with the automation system that pentair sells....this makes me feel better. I like tinkering and always need a project to tackle.
Ok Im at a loss....Ive been reading on pentair's site about automation systems and needless to say it was a bit heavy reading. I have no spa, no heater, no water feature, no variable speed pump, I only would like something that would turn the pump on and off along with the intellichlor and give a finer adjustment range on the swcg. Is this even possible? I guess I could just wire them both to a timer of some sort but that doesnt get me any finer adjustment. The problem is I kinda am planning on just running the pump 24/7 *I know, but hey Ill pay the electric bill* unless I can get something reliable that will kick everything on and off and handle the swcg. i work shift work and my wife works nights so we sleep a lot during the day so I dont want to have to set an alarm to go out and flip the pump on if I turn it off at night. If this makes any sense I would really appreciate any advice on how to sort of tie the pump on/off operation and the SWCG together in a way that gives me a finer adjustment (or will I even need any finer than the 20% steps with putting it on a cycle?)
Kind of non-conventional, but if you leave the pump on 24/7 ... wondering if you could just get an intermatic timer to turn the SWG controller on and off. That way you could leave it at 20% and use the timer to shorten the amount of time it is actually operating.
This might be the cheapest option. Although if you get a timer ... may as well also have it turn the pump on and off and save some $ on the pump running.
Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone
This might be the cheapest option. Although if you get a timer ... may as well also have it turn the pump on and off and save some $ on the pump running.
Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone
Probably right....no sense messing with the automation when all my set up can really even use is a timer. But: what if I WANT the pump to run more than I NEED the swcg to run? Glad everyone has their thinkin caps on here for me.
susa
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>> didnt order any automation system but its looking like i may need to....just wasnt really wanting to since my pump cant be controlled by it (at least I dont think so). I also dont have a timer installed so Im likely going to have to figure something out pretty soon.
my posted solution with pictures here is a macromatic control relay that monitors pump power curve and intelligently switches on or off the IC40 when pump is running below ~120watts
my posted solution with pictures here is a macromatic control relay that monitors pump power curve and intelligently switches on or off the IC40 when pump is running below ~120watts
susa's solution won't work for you because you don't have a variable speed pump and you're looking at the possibility of running the pump more than the swcg.
You could get a digital timer like the Intermatic P1353ME. That way you could program the pump and the swcg independently.
You could get a digital timer like the Intermatic P1353ME. That way you could program the pump and the swcg independently.
+2 on jblizzle. I've got an IC40 with a 22000 gallon pool. I run my pump on 24 hrs/day and I have a little higher chlorine level on average all summer - between 7-10ppm rather than the 3-5ppm suggested for my plaster pool. I run the SWG at 20% full-time. I'm OK with the higher FC, but since you have a pool twice as small as mine, obviously, your FC levels will be higher. I plan on putting a timer on my pump/swg which are on the same circuit to do what jblizzle suggests, but haven't done it yet and I've been running like this all this year so far and all last year, with no issues.
Thanks for all the ideas. After hearing alloverit's experience Im pretty convinced that Ill have to come up with either A) a way to turn the swcg on and off in intervals or B) a way to get finer adjustment on its output.
Bama probably has the best fix though, get a timer that I can control each independently....even if I do have the pump on 24-7 I would have the ability to change that down the road if I decide to.
Thank you all so much
Bama probably has the best fix though, get a timer that I can control each independently....even if I do have the pump on 24-7 I would have the ability to change that down the road if I decide to.
Thank you all so much
Are you able to get it swapped it out for the IC-20 before you install it?
The Pentair Easy Touch P4 will do what you want but is pricey around $550. However, you can get the fine adjustment on the SWG plus on/off schedules, heater, anti-freeze control, mutiple schedules, lighting and a ton of other features. I have one with the wireless remote and can do everything from the house but test.
The Pentair Easy Touch P4 will do what you want but is pricey around $550. However, you can get the fine adjustment on the SWG plus on/off schedules, heater, anti-freeze control, mutiple schedules, lighting and a ton of other features. I have one with the wireless remote and can do everything from the house but test.
I probably could but before I did that i would got with a diff brand (maybe a unit that puts out .9-1lb per day) I think. Im not willing to take the chance on something that I might have to run all the time just to keep up. I get full sun from morning to night.
I don't have the manual near by, but I thought you needed a straight run on both sides of the unit like at least a foot. I would read the manual to insure that it's installed correctly. Not sure if it would shorten the life or it doesn't generate enough chlorine or why the run is necessary, but everything I've read about these units, you are supposed to have a straight run on both sides. Double check your manual.
XsAllOverIt said:
The reason given in the manual for the straight pipe (12-18", I believe) is for flow sensing. Mine is plumbed similarly (right after a 90), and when my 1hp 2-speed pump is on low, the cell usually gives a flow error (unless I have just recently backwashed the filter). On high it's ok.
I'm not positive that having a straight section of pipe would enable it to work on low, but it's certainly a possibility.
--Michael
Yes it calls to have a straight run ahead of it. I suspect this is to have as laminar flow as possible as it enters the cell. It wasn't really feasible with my setup though. I don't see any way that it could effect chlorine production though. As someone above said; it's most likely to give the flow switch optimum conditions to give an error free indication. There is a stream straightener in the end of the cell just ahead of the switch also.
As far as shortening the life of it, I can't really see how it could make a difference either. Water balance and on-time are the two major things that dictate cell life according to what I've read on the subject.
You see a few companies that sell systems where the cells are plumbed with two 90degree direction changes-one into the cell chamber and another out of it in addition to two more to enter the piping connecting the cell to your pool plumbing.
You see a few companies that sell systems where the cells are plumbed with two 90degree direction changes-one into the cell chamber and another out of it in addition to two more to enter the piping connecting the cell to your pool plumbing.
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