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Thread: TF100 question??

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    HuskerFan_1's Avatar
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    TF100 question??

    Ordered the TF100 last week and found it very simple to use. The question I have is with the combined chlorine. The page that compares the test kits says that the TF and taylor can detect CC as low as .2. How is this possible when you can only add one drop of reagent and multiplying by .5? So far I've tested it twice and have only had to add one drop CC = .5. Am I only to shock the pool when it is greater than .5?

    The other question is of calcium hardness. The solution never turned blue. I was up to 60 drops befored I figured I did something wrong.

    Here are the results from the TF100 and the color q tester.

    TF100

    pH 7.2
    FC. 3.5
    CC. .5
    TA. 110
    CH ????
    CYA. 50

    ColorQ

    pH 7.2
    FC. 2.46
    TC. 2.49
    TA. 107
    CH 309
    CYA 49

    I was questioning whether my color q was reading properly so i bought the TF 100 to double check it I am confident that my color q is fairly accurate other than pH. I am beginning to believe pool store tests were not accurate at all.

    I am ready to begin BBB don't know if this is the proper forum for this question. Am I close enough on TA to add borax? I've been working at lowering it from close to 300 and have it down to 110.


    Thanks for all of your advice so far. I'm looking forward to beginning the BBB pool program.

    Thanks

    Dan
    20'x40' inground, vinyl 38,000 gal. Auto Cover. Sand filter 300#. 1 1/2 hp pump. Pentair master temp 250 heater. Circupool Si60 chorine generator. TF-100 test kit. Borates--life is good😎.

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: TF100 question??

    The difference in the chlorine test is the size of the sample. If you use 25 ml of water, each drop counts as .2. If you use 10 ml, each drop is .5.

    The CH test can take a long, long time. Try using a 10 ml sample, then multiply drops by 25 to get your reading. If your numbers are that high, does it matter if you're 620 or 625? It can take a lot - a whole lot - of swirling to get the color to change. I use a speedstir and it still takes a long time.

    PS: if you do CH using 10 ml, it uses 10 drops of r-0010 and 3 of r-0011.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: TF100 question??

    You only need to shock if you have visible algae and/or lose more than 1 ppm of FC overnight and/or have greater than 0.5 ppm CC.

    The primary reason for a calcium hardness test not to complete properly is metals in the water, primarily copper and/or iron. Add 10 drops of R-0012 before doing the test, do the test as normal, and add the initial 10 drops to the total.

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    Re: TF100 question??

    Use a 25 mL sample, then each drop of R-0871 represents 0.2 ppm.
    Try testing tap water for CH, you'll confirm if everthing is working ok (reagents and method).

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    HuskerFan_1's Avatar
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    Re: TF100 question??

    Thanks for the responses. My refill water is high in manganese no iron in refill water, so I'm guessing manganese is affecting the CH test.

    TA is now at at 90 any pH is at 6.9. Just waiting for pH to raise (aerating now) and I will then begin borating pool. Pool is crystal clear looking forward to the BBB method.

    Thanks

    Dan
    20'x40' inground, vinyl 38,000 gal. Auto Cover. Sand filter 300#. 1 1/2 hp pump. Pentair master temp 250 heater. Circupool Si60 chorine generator. TF-100 test kit. Borates--life is good😎.

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