Stick in conversion

I wish I had found you guys a while ago!
We bought a home this spring that has a 26,000 gal. in ground vinyl pool. We have never had a pool before so this is all new to us. A previous neighbor had a salt water pool and it sounded like a good idea to convert, especially after we heard how much the baquacil cost that the previous owners had been using. Unfortunately, instead of finding you guys I got advice from the pool store and from a neighbor who has salt water and said he has helped a number of people install them. (including a couple of baqua conversions) My pool looked very cloudy and nasty so my neighbor recommended draining half of the pool and re filling it (our water is very cheap) before converting, as that would make the process easier. After re-filling the pool looked great, almost crystal clear!

I got my SWCG system installed (but not plugged in) then went to the pool store. :hammer:
I returned the leftover baqua product to the pool store and they gave me credit for them which got promptly used on the 25# bucket of dichlor and container of stabilizer he said I would need for the conversion. He said to put 3-4 pounds of the dichlor in the pool every other day for about two weeks and everything would be fine. When I got home my neighbor said I shouldn't throw a bunch of unnecessary chemicals in the pool, just add the salt, stabilizer, plug in the SWCG and everything would be fine. After a couple of days of running the SWCG on super-chlorinate I observed that it was making the deep end a little dark but the test strips were showing basically no FC in the pool.

Doubting my neighbor I tossed a couple of pounds of the dichlor in the pool, and of course watched it turn a pretty green! The water is not cloudy, just green. I can still see the 8' bottom in the deep end just fine through the green color. Since then my test strips have been reading 10+ for TC and FC. I now have a TF-100 test kit on the way so I can actually tell what is going on with my pool! My question is what should I do now? Should I sit and wait for my test kit or keep plugging ahead with the conversion? If I keep plugging ahead should I keep using the dichlor since I already have it or should I switch to bleach? Any advice will be appreciated, as I am sure it will be better than the advice I have received so far!
 
ps....if you do wish to listen to your pool store your CYA level will be around 125. :D

Your neighbor is 1/2 right...but the SWG won't cut it. Follow the rules in school and you'll have a clean pool in about a week.
 
You need to do a complete baqua conversion. We have complete instructions on how to do that in Pool School, see the link Leebo gave you above.

You want to avoid using any more dichlor as it will add CYA to the water, which can dramatically slow down a baqua conversion.
 
Thank you Leebo and Jason!
I will pick up a bunch of bleach on my way home tonight.
Should I wait for my test kit to come before I do any more so I can accurately tell what my chlorine levels are, or should I should I go ahead and dump in several gallons a day to keep the process going slowly until the kit arrives?
Thanks!
 
A reasonable baseline level is to add 15 ppm of chlorine each evening after sunset. Somewhat lower than that will work most of the time, but 15 ppm a day is safer. That will also keep the conversion moving along, all be it slowly.
 
Re: Stuck in conversion

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As you can see my pool never got very cloudy, I have been able to see the bottom the whole time. I took this yesterday afternoon and since then it has turned more of a yellow color and is even more transparent. My test kit arrived today and I promptly ran out to test it.
FC- 15
CC- 4.5

I am rather surprised the FC is at 15 in the middle of a clear day, I am sure that probably has something to do with the fact that my CYA is now around 60.
It looks like my conversion will be proceeding slowly, but at least my pool never got real nasty in the process!
 

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Re: Stuck in conversion

Looking at other threads makes me really wish I had taken pictures as the process got started! Who knew?!
Last night my FC was at 11 so I added enough bleach to bring it up to about 18. This morning I am at 17 with a CC of 3 the entire time.
With a CYA reading around 60 should I be shocking at a FC level closer to 25 as the Chlorine/CYA chart indicates?

Also, the strip tests I did before indicated a PH that was a little low. When I tested it this morning with the TF-100 I came up with a PH of 6.8!
In other threads I see the PH reading high during the conversion, should I be concerned about this low reading?

For now I am heading off to the pool with a toothbrush to attack any goo I can find!
 
You want to raise the PH to at least 7.2. It is unusual for PH to go down during a conversion, but not a problem. Just keep the PH from going too low.

Yes, shocking to 25, or even 30, is a good idea. That will speed things up.
 

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My wife now thinks I've turned into a full fledged geek with the number of times I pulled out the test kit yesterday!

I tested at 3:00 PM yesterday:
FC- 24
CC- 3
I was cleaning around various parts of the pool and put the solar cover on to get the goo off of it so I figured my chlorine level would take a decent hit.
Then I tested at 8:30 last night and found:
FC- 20
CC- 3
I thought maybe it is time to do an OCLT so I didn't add any bleach.
This morning at 7:00 I have:
FC- 20
CC- 3
My water still has a green tint to it so now I am kind of confused. On most other threads their water is crystal clear when they are ready for step seven so it doesn't seem like I should be there yet? Is my 60 CYA throwing off my numbers and in reality I have more work to do. It seems like my chlorine levels are going down really slow and I don't want to have a chlorine level of 25 when I am done with the conversion and it be another week or so before we can swim. Man, I really wish I didn't have any CYA in my pool!!
Thanks for all the help guys!! I don't know what I would have done without you!
 
The CYA is slowing down the pace of the conversion and making some of the milestones look different than they would with less CYA in the water. CC is going to go down more slowly than it would without CYA and it will take the last of the green color (it isn't always green, but green in this case) longer to go away.

The only advantage of having CYA is that you can maintain higher FC levels during the day than you ever could without CYA.
 
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