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Thread: New Equipment Pad Concrete and Switch Over

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    New Equipment Pad Concrete and Switch Over

    In previous TFP posts, I had noted that I am doing a DIY pool remodel. I have just finished stubbing up the plumbing for my new design. I am ready to start stubbing up my electrical conduits for the Easy Touch and new pump location, so I can pour the concrete pad for everything. However, my existing pump and filter are still operating to keep the pool clean and usable. The existing suction and return plumbing lines stub up in the wrong location(to close to property line by code <18"), so I will be rerouting to a new spot to meet code requirements. I don't plan on draining the pool until the fall when I start the waterfall and re-plastering. So my plan is to plug/cap the return and suction while I do the change over.

    Here is my dilemma, if I take my pump and filter off line to do the electrical and concrete work, how many days could I get away with before my pool could start having problems (such as algae). I live in So Cal, and they are forecasting the weather to be low to mid 80's for the next 10 days. Can I heavily chlorinate the pool, or do something else to help give me the most number of days knowing that I wont be turning the water daily? Will sweeping the pool walls by hand help turn the water if it is done vigorously? With work and family activities, I think I will need about 3-5 days of working in the evening or weekends to get this done. Any advice would be helpful.

    Also, do you recommend stopping the concrete before the plumbing lines or encasing them within the pad. I have them set up in such a spot that I can go either way. My concern with encasing was if I ever had a problem then I am possibly forced to cut or break the pad.
    Dr. Mary, Brooksville, FL 1)3800 gals Intex pool, 16 x 42, 95% direct sun 2)Cartridge Filter 2500 gal. (Intex) 3)AG Pool 4)SWG

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    JasonLion's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Silver Spring, MD

    Re: New Equipment Pad Concrete and Switch Over

    Bringing the pool to shock level will usually get you three or four days. Adding a trichlor floater can usually extend that to a week, though it gets a little iffy towards the end of the week. Using a solar cover, if you have one, improves the odds of everything going well dramatically.

    It is possible to add chlorine without a pump, but it requires pouring the chlorine all the way around the edge of the pool and then brushing the entire pool to mix it in well.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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