We're going on year 3 with our Intex 16x48 ultra frame pool, and are upgrading the pump/filter to a secondhand hayward power flow lx pump and micro star clear filter. We are running off an extension cord on a GFCI outlet. I saw bonding pop up. I'm assuming the hayward should be bonded, can the Intex be bonded (poles are coated so I'm not sure there would be good connection made around the top rail)? Does the bonding wire only ever carry current when something goes wrong?
Bonding questions
- Thread starter froggi338
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!
Are you doing this to pass inspection, or just because you read about it and thought it sounded important to do? If you need to pass inspection, you should talk to your inspector in advance and see what they think.
The pool frame can be bonded, though sometimes it is more difficult than other times. The rule is that every metal piece 4" or larger must be connected to the bonding wire. Often the existing bolted connections between the frame pieces are sufficient to complete the circuit, but if they are not you are supposed to run a wire to each independent piece.
The bonding wire connects the water and everything else conductive that a person in the water could possibly touch or which could conduct electricity into the water, and makes sure they are all at the same electrical potential. In an ideal world it would never carry any current. But in practice there are places where there are stray ground currents that are present most or all of the time (normally because of electric company infrastructure), and the bonding system will carry those currents around the pool.
Are you doing this to pass inspection, or just because you read about it and thought it sounded important to do? If you need to pass inspection, you should talk to your inspector in advance and see what they think.
The pool frame can be bonded, though sometimes it is more difficult than other times. The rule is that every metal piece 4" or larger must be connected to the bonding wire. Often the existing bolted connections between the frame pieces are sufficient to complete the circuit, but if they are not you are supposed to run a wire to each independent piece.
The bonding wire connects the water and everything else conductive that a person in the water could possibly touch or which could conduct electricity into the water, and makes sure they are all at the same electrical potential. In an ideal world it would never carry any current. But in practice there are places where there are stray ground currents that are present most or all of the time (normally because of electric company infrastructure), and the bonding system will carry those currents around the pool.
No inspection worries, code is kind of vague about what AGPs need to go through inspection (if any) and code enforcement really doesn't come around unless you don't have a fence. I just ran across bonding reading the manual for the current hayward pumps (I can't find the manual for the specific model I have: s48e48a04), and I've always felt kind of weird swimming in water that seems to be in kind of direct connection to an electric motor....
Figured out it's really a sp1540c, and the manual says it's not for storable pools, I'm thinking maybe because of bonding issues? The connections for the top rail pieces are secured with plastic spring pins, not bolts, and the faces are painted so I don't think there's solid metal connection between the parts.
I had an electrician bond my Intex 15 x 48, hayward pump and Intex SWG. I was standing barefoot by the pool and reached into the skimmer. I felt some stray voltage, so I decided I had better do something about it.
I also had him run a new circuit, gfci outlet and intermatic timer as well.
I think it is money well spent...
I also had him run a new circuit, gfci outlet and intermatic timer as well.
I think it is money well spent...
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