Plumbing a remodel

[Blowout]

Both the ones you listed from Grainger were schedule "DWV" .

If it was me, I would go with regular 90's and spend my money making them sch 80. If I ever re-plumb my pool all fittings will be sch 80. I think you're splitting hairs with the long radius sweeps.

Not to mention I would think the long radius sweeps would be more prone to cracking/failure. I have had to replace several fittings under the deck through the years and I would do anything I could to avoid having to fix failed fittings.

Not sure why you would think a long sweep would be more prone to failure.

If your mastic has gaps you might have water getting under the deck increasing ground movement. Might also try backfilling with sand if you dig things up again.

We are going to replace our deck with pavers and the ability to correct future issues is one reason. We had our driveway redone in pavers and a year later PG&E discovered a broken powerline underneath. We were able to remove the pavers, dig a 4' access hole, fix the issue and place back the pavers.

 

[TheGoose]

Pavers actually sound like a great idea. I might do that instead of busting up the entire deck and re-pouring.

I inherited the pool with a messed up deck. I have tried to seal up the water access areas but they need more work.

I don't really know about the long sweeps, they just seem to present more of an area for problems. I know on my pool all the leaks came from the 90's and T's. Maybe the longer ones distribute the stress more evenly and are less prone to cracking. Perhaps the original builder could have done it better. I don't really know.

Good luck!!

 

[Blowout]

I currently have an aggregate slab deck. Just over the past winter I can see elevation movement in places I never did before. I was told the mastic should be redone every 6 yrs and this movement was the result from the rain seeping in.
Another thing about the pavers is there is no more mastic needed. The pavers can be laid right up to the coping with no gap.

good luck with yours as well...

 

[duraleigh]

Most common, easy to find PVC fittings are schedule 40 regular 90's. glued properly, they will last for 50+ years. Pool pressure never exceeds about 35 psi and sched 40 is rated at 140 psi at 140 degrees. (or something like that)

The common long sweeps you find are rated DWV (drain wast vent) and as such are not pressure rated. My experience has been that, glued and primed properly, they will easily contain the 35 psi of pools for years and years (I have a couple).

All that said, mas985 is the hydraulics engineer guy on this forum and he has calculated the increased resistance of the "square" (sched 40) 90's and it is very miniscule. He suggests sticking with sched 40 90's as the difference is too small to matter.

 

[TheGoose]

I'm not sure if your directing this at my "sch 80" comments or the OP.

It's NEVER the glued part that causes problems, as long as it's done correctly. Heck, even done wrong the glued part usually holds. You and I both know that "glued" isn't quite the right term, as it's really chemically welded.

And it certainly isn't the pressure. What I'm referring to is the increased "STRENGTH" of the fitting itself. Go grab a sch 80 fitting or pipe next time you're in lowe's (they have some). It's much beefier and heavy. All of my leaks have come from cracks in the fittings due to the shifting soil.

I agree, std. sch 40 fittings and pipe is probably best.

Most common, easy to find PVC fittings are schedule 40 regular 90's. glued properly, they will last for 50+ years. Pool pressure never exceeds about 35 psi and sched 40 is rated at 140 psi at 140 degrees. (or something like that)

The common long sweeps you find are rated DWV (drain wast vent) and as such are not pressure rated. My experience has been that, glued and primed properly, they will easily contain the 35 psi of pools for years and years (I have a couple).

All that said, mas985 is the hydraulics engineer guy on this forum and he has calculated the increased resistance of the "square" (sched 40) 90's and it is very miniscule. He suggests sticking with sched 40 90's as the difference is too small to matter.

 

[Blowout]

We currently have the jacuzzi jets on their own pump and plumbed separately from the filter/heating system. Is this common for todays standards?

Also is it common to backfill the plumbing ditch with yard dirt or should the pipes be bedded in sand?

 

[Blowout]

[attachment=0:3jf1oxjm]Pool plumbing.pdf[/attachment:3jf1oxjm]

I'm thinking of the attached plumbing layout. The pad is 50 ft from the pool. Any suggestions or redflags seen with this layout?

Currently the there is one return into the SPA that is connected directly to the pool returns. A second SPA return is run back to the pad and is valved with the pool returns. Only one is on at a time. I am thinking of connecting the 2 returns to a single line back to the pad as shown in the diagram.

Currently the skimmer and pool drain are connected with one line running back to the pad. I am thinking of a separating them as shown in the diagram.

We signed the PB up today and the work begins June 1.