New pool owner and need help

[sasanewpool]

Husband and I took of cover two days ago...we have a green, brown pool.
Today I tested the water using (walmart) test kit will be ordering a better one soon.
Cl: 0.6
Br: 1.3
Ph: 7.2

CYA: did not test

I have turned it on but turned it back until I can get a plan as to what to do next. Thank you for all advice in advance.

 

[duraleigh]

You must shock the pool according to the directions given in Pool School. You will need to post test results for CH, pH, Cl, CC's, and CYA for us to correctly advise on how much chlorine to use during the shock process.

Post those up and we can get you started.

 

[JasonLion]

Please post a full set of water test results. If your tester can not measure everything get a pool store to measure for you. In the meantime, do some reading at Pool School, especially the article on shocking your pool.

 

[sasanewpool]

I will take a sample to pool store on Monday, but I am wondering if in the mean time do I have the pump running or not. Do I try to calculate how much bleach I will need to get.

 

[Isaac-1]

Without knowing your CYA level it is hard to even begin to estimate, even with it things are a bit of a ballpark guess, I would start with at least 10-15 gallons though, but that is a ballpark guess, and it is a big ballpark. 10-15 gallons will at least get you started though

 

[sasanewpool]

Sorry took so long
Cya 11
Fc 0
Ph 8.1
Alkalinity 179
Total chlorine 0.4

 

[jblizzle]

No one seems to have mentioned it yet here, but I have to recommend getting your own good test kit (recommended ones are in my signature). There are too many post with very inconsistant pool store test results to trust them. And since you are going to be shocking, you will need to be testing hourly at the the start with FC levels well about 5ppm which is the max for most cheap test kits.

If we believe the test results you have, you should:
1. Lower your pH to the low-mid 7s
2. (maybe bump up your CYA to 20-30ppm)
3. Start adding a LOT of bleach and testing often and adding more bleach to maintain shock level

Read these:
Defeating Algae
Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
Shocking Your Pool

 

[PSW]

To add to what Jason said (about pH)..
pH will rise faster with higher TA. Adding muriatic acid will bring down your pH and TA...which is a good thing.

After you go thought the shocking process, these are the target levels you should aim for:
FC 3-7 (depending on your CYA)
pH 7.5-7.8
TA 70-90
CH 50-300
CYA 30-50

 

[Isaac-1]

I would say that CYA measurement of 11 is highly questionable, I assume this is from a pool store test? In general the CYA test range with a good drop based test is from about 20-100 over or under that range the results are very questionable (a reading of 10, could be 0 or could be 15, a reading of 150, could be 120 or could be 300)

either way we now have reason to expect it to be fairly low.

I would suggest adding enough CYA to raise your level by 20-25 ppm then retest (better too low than too high) for your size pool that should be 2.5 - 3 pounds (you don't say how deep your pool is so this is based on a gues of 13500 gallons for a 24 ft diameter pool 48 inches deep)

As chance has it I took a wate sample to a pool store to have tested for iron (due to rustly metal shavings getting in my pool last week), as I don't have a test for iron as it is low in my water normally.

Anyway as expected being a typical pool store their results were WAY OFF on some of the other ranges, they showed my CYA at 10 when it is closer to 30, and they showed CH at 80 when it is really 160, etc.


Ike

p.s. the CYA stabilizer is slightly acidic so will cause your pH to go down some

Also you should start shocking with bleach / chlorine as soon as you can, it will be more effective at the lower CYA level, but if you add CYA powder (hang in a sock in front of return jets) it will take a few days to disolve, oh and yes you wil need a good kit like the TF-100 to shock without wasting a lot of bleach and potentially doing harm to your liner

 

[sasanewpool]

Do I need to add the stabilizer now or when the pool is little cleaner. I have backwashed a couple of times now and I have been filtering the water now for a few days and the skimmer has no more leaves in it. I have also scrubbed the pool walls and dirt just comes right back. I have also noticed that there was a filter system?? called the frog mineral system that is connected to the sand filter. Does this mean there are minerals in the water?


I am still reading through the threads here ....are there diferent types of chlorine..

 

[sasanewpool]

More questions...will the green color appear to fall to the bottom of pool...it looks like we have some clear water on top and a level of green begin, but it is going down each day..Is this a good sign.

 

[sasanewpool]

So I have put in clorox 5 (1.42)gals , and algeacide and this is what happened this morning after backwashing am I doing something wrong... :?: :?: :?: oh man i don't think i know what i am doing

 

[PSW]

More questions...will the green color appear to fall to the bottom of pool...it looks like we have some clear water on top and a level of green begin, but it is going down each day..Is this a good sign.

Yes, sometimes as algae is killed it might 'settle' a bit. Nothing to worry about, keep running the filter 24/7

So I have put in clorox 5 (1.42)gals , and algeacide and this is what happened this morning after backwashing am I doing something wrong... :?: :?: :?: oh man i don't think i know what i am doing

Have you looked into getting your own test kit? This is important for effective (and efficient) shocking.

When reading articles on this site, did you read the instructions about how to shock your pool (in Pool School)?

Follow the directions as precisely as you can, and use poolcalculator to determine doses of chemicals. The algaecide is not needed to get a clean pool.

Also, to answer you other question..yes, it sounds like you have minerals from your mineral sanitizer pack.

 

[Isaac-1]

It looks typical, what kind of algacide did you use? We generally suggest staying away from algacides, particularly ones that contain copper as they can cause all sorts of other problems, if you feel you must use an algacide, use one that does not contain copper, the suggested type around here are ones that contain polyquat

 

[sasanewpool]

duely noted....
am i to do any vacuuming of the bottom even if i can't see it and if i do will it be (to waste).

 

[PSW]

duely noted....
am i to do any vacuuming of the bottom even if i can't see it and if i do will it be (to waste).

It won't really hurt..but then again, you would be replacing your water that was sent to waste with new water. So it might waste some of the chlorine that you are putting in. BUT it will also reduce the amount of crud that gets sent to your filter.

 

[sasanewpool]

it has been a month of the pool story here are the latest test results (pool store)


cya: 21
tc : 10
fc: 10
ph: 7.4
ta: 104

here is a new picture of the water still can't see bottom and want to know if this is what it is suppose to look like if I am doing this right.

 

[Smykowski]

Pool store test results are notoriously unreliable. You really need to get your own kit and do your own testing. It seems like a lot of money for the kit, but between lower costs on chemicals and no driving to the pool store, your payback will be enormous.

After you get your kit, you will be able to properly shock your pool (which requires frequent testing and dosing).

 

[RaviePoolGirl]

Invest in a good test kit. Here is a good choice.

You really need to shock you pool the right way and you will get it clear. Shock Your Pool. This is the link for instructions on how to shock.

 

[ultra800_96]

+1 on what everyone else here has advised.

My experience back in '09 was similar to yours. Cleaning up my swamp, I didn't have a test kit to test what reliably needed to be tested, & by the "seat of the pants" at first, I was adding all sorts of things that weren't needed, with a month long cloudiness that wouldn't clear. I finally did order the TF100, & followed the advice I learned here, & in no time it was clear. I now have IMO the best test kit that I can have, #1) test whatever & whenever I want or need to, #2)add only what I need to, and #3)not rely on inaccurate results from any pool store, from an employee that knows nothing other than what their fancy test printer spits out to spend money on.

Not being harsh, but with the experience & knowledge I've gained here, you could have ordered the kit right off, done your own, accurate testing, & had that pool clear by now. Don't trust the pool store, get your own kit. I recommend the TF100! The best bang for the buck!