Pool refilled, still no chlorine registering

[bjsbuds]

Our pool was refilled a week ago after a new liner install.

Been to TFP School, purchased a TF-100, and proudly announced I would be taking over testing the pool this year. I must admit, I am not fairing very well. We always opened the pool with five jugs of liquid chlorine, and a bottle of algicide. After the pool was up and running, we would put 1" tablets in the automatic chlorinator, and pour large bags of baking soda in the pool every so often. I have to admit, the pool looked great. My only complaint is that our 10 year old pool liner was totally bleached out.

Since we installed a much darker liner, I thought I would take over the pool chemicals in an attempt to keep this liner from becoming bleached out. After the pool was refilled, I followed the Pool School directions and added one bag of shock for every 2,000 gallons of water, for a total of 9 bags. Tested the water and had zero reading on chlorine. After getting grief, I caved by adding pouring two jugs of chlorine into the pool. Tested the water, still no chlorine. A few days later, we added three more jugs of chlorine and as of tonight the chlorine is still reading zero. Now the family is making fun of me for spending the money on the TF-100 test kit and thinking that I could take over the pool maintenance.

Here are my readings, any help is greatly appreciated:
TC - 0
PH - 7.5
TA - 170
CH - 210
CYA - cannot get the dot to go away
Temp - 73

Thanks!

 

[Isaac-1]

You say you added "shock" different companies sell different chemicals under the name of "shock" some don't even include chlorine. For opening what you probably wanted was dichlor based shock which would add both CYA stabilizer and Chlorine to the water, based on your number I suspect you may have used Cal-Hypo based shock. Don't worry we can get you where you need to be.

Ike

p.s. the little blue OTO chlorine kit in the TF-100 is the best way to test for the presence of Chlorine, however it is not the best way to mearsure the amount of chlorine.

 

[zea3]

Did you shock with dichlor or cal-hypo? If you used 9 bags of cal-hypo then you need to add CYA to the pool. If you used dichlor then you may not have enough CYA yet. It usually takes about a week for CYA to register on the test after it has been added. How long after adding the chlorine did you test the water? If you waited a couple of days then the chlorine could have been depleted by then, especially if the CYA is low. If you have added enough CYA to reach 30-50 ppm and checked the chlorine the same day you added it then try adding two scoops of the powder for the FC test. It is possible that the chlorine level is very high. Also make sure the pump has been running at least 1/2 an hour before collecting your water sample.

 

[bjsbuds]

Looks like I did buy the wrong shock. I purchased hth Super shock 'n swim, which states it is 52% Calcuim Hypochlorite and 48% Other Ingredients, with a minimum available chlorine of 49%. Going to breakdown and take a sample to the Pool Store today and see what they say. I am guessing they will suggest Dichlor and Stablizer (CYA).

 

[zea3]

Dichlor has stabilizer in it. I would recommend getting the stabilizer (also known as CYA or conditioner) only. According to the pool calculator you need 72 ounces by weight of dry CYA or 187 ounces of liquid CYA to give you 30 ppm. Dry CYA is less expensive and takes about a week to register on a test, and liquid CYA is more expensive but it registers on the test the same day.

Keep using the liquid chlorine. It was being depleted so quickly due to the lack of CYA.

If you purchase dry CYA, add it to the pool by putting it in a sock, knot the open end, and hang in the stream from the return. Squeeze the sock a few times a day to help the CYA disperse and dissolve quicker.

 

[duraleigh]

bjsbuds,

Gaining control over your pool will be easy to you very soon but I think you need to sort out the chlorine issues first. There is nothing better you can put in your pool than liquid chlorine (bleach). You simply don't need ANYTHING ELSE to shock the POOL or maintain the pool for the rest of the summer. Liquid chlorine can be your source that you use to shock the pool and it can be your source as you maintain the pool.

Reread "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School as it will anchor your knowledge back into the basics. As you get more comfortable with what you have learned, the other chlorine sources may be helpful to you and you will better understand the side effects that these other sources have. Shock is something you do to your pool.....it is not a product as the pool stores would have you believe.

Advice from the pool store will probably confuse you further. Trust your own testing.

 

[bjsbuds]

Thanks for the great advice. The Pool Store recommended buying 32 oz. Stabilizer and 27 oz. of Mineral Eliminator, and asked that we bring another sample back this week to test again. While the ounces vary with what has been recommended here, I feel like I can now take over my own testing with the great support of the forum.

 

[Isaac-1]

It is important to know how much CYA stabilizer you have in your water to know the correct level where you should maintain your FC. 32 Oz of stabilizer (dry CYA) will only raise your CYA by 13 ppm in an 18,000 gallon pool (* assuming the 18K in your signature is 18,000 gallon), if you have done nothing to raise CYA (no dichlor,trichlor or CYA stabilizer) yet then this will be FAR too little for your pool, in fact this total will still be too low to register on a CYA test which will only show down to 20 - 30 ppm depending on the test.

Ike

p.s. the 72 Oz of dry stabilizer that zea suggested will bring you up to 30 ppm of CYA, even this is on the low end of the suggested range, but with CYA it is better to be low than high as the only practical way to remove it is through water replacement or expensive Reverse Osmosis treatment

 

[Bama Rambler]

You just made a slight misstep in the beginning. Please don't let that minor bump dishearten you. You'll figure it all out soon.

I'll agree with the posters about buying enough CYA to get to about 40 ppm and then use bleach to chlorinate the pool.

We can guide you along if you'll start posting your test results and what you're doing to the pool.

 

[Ohm_Boy]

Ditto on the above posts. Also, don't worry about the pool store's recommendation for "Mineral Eliminator". Just ignore that for now.

 

[bjsbuds]

I think I am getting closer after adding 64 oz. of stabilizer. Pool test results last night:
TC - 4
FC - 4
CC - 1
PH - 8
TA - 130
CH - 290
CYA - 40
Temp - 75 degrees

One question I have is in Jason's extended test directions, on the second chlorine test, it says to add drops of R-0001 and then R-0002. My TF test kit has neither.

Anyway, first swim will be tomorrow, and I think the pool water is good enough for now.

 

[duraleigh]

One question I have is in Jason's extended test directions, on the second chlorine test, it says to add drops of R-0001 and then R-0002. My TF test kit has neither.

I'm not sure just where that is posted but it is not part of any test in the TF-100. Ignore it. What test were you looking to get extended directions?

Lower your pH down to 7.4 or so......use muriatic and don't ignore it....do it soon.

Your CC test result of 1.0 is a little bit higher than it should be (.5ppm or less). I think if you will elevate your chlorine to about 8-10ppm today the CC's will drop back to acceptable limits.

What does your water look like?

 

[Butterfly]

One question I have is in Jason's extended test directions, on the second chlorine test, it says to add drops of R-0001 and then R-0002. My TF test kit has neither.

You were reading the Extended Test Directions for the DPD test. The FAS/DPD Extended Test Directions are next in line: extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html