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Thread: Bone head move 110 setting 220 wired

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    Bone head move 110 setting 220 wired

    Rewired my pump for 220 but that stupid arrow lined up to the 220 but was actualy 110. When we turned the breaker on at the sub panel it through sparks. Figured out the problem moved the selector to 220, but now the pump comes on a few seconds and shuts back off.

    So can you fry a motor this way? I thought it would just kick breaker. But the pump worked at 110 and now does not work at 220.

    30 amp sub panel breaker, 10-3 wire running 50 feet or so to pool panel. 20 amp breaker at pool panel running 15 feet from pool pump panel to motor, again using 10-3 wire. Replaced GFI with regular breaker still not working. Also when the pump does start for those few seconds it is louder than normal.

    Thanks ahead of time for your responses.

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    Re: Bone head move 110 setting 220 wired

    Also, pump is hot when it shuts off.

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    Re: Bone head move 110 setting 220 wired

    sorry keep adding. But trying to make sure you have all info on my pump. It is NOT kicking the breaker. It is the thermal switch turning it off. If i let it set 30 seconds or so after it kicks off it will kick back on for a second.

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    Re: Bone head move 110 setting 220 wired

    I wouldn't try running it anymore. Time to find a good motor repair shop and have them go through it. If you're lucky you can get it repaired for under $100.
    16x32 Oval In-ground Vinyl, ~17,000 gallons, Hayward 1hp Superpump, Hayward S245T Sand Filter

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    Re: Bone head move 110 setting 220 wired

    When it was wired as 220V, you doubled the amount of power going through the motor. Since the current draw did not change, the excess power probably fried a coil in the motor. As this current didn't exceed the rating of the 220V breaker, it did its job (circuit breakers are designed to protect your wiring, not your motor). I would guess the reason why it runs briefly and then stops is that the excess power fried one of the main run coils, but that the starter coil is working properly. On single phase AC motors, the starter coil is there to get the motor turning before it kicks over to the main coils. Hopefully, it will be something simple, or you may need to purchase a new motor.
    38K in ground pool with attached spa. Current equipment: Easytouch 8 (521150) with IC-60 SWCG with web control by Autelis, 1x Pentair IntelliFlo 011018 pump (for filter), 1x Pentair 2HP WhisperFlo pump (for waterfall), 2X Pentair IntelliBrite 5G 12V lights, Pentair MiniMax400 NG Heater, Pentair SMBW2060 DE filter. Zodiac Barracuda MX8 cleaner on dedicated cleaner line. Lighting/home automation controlled by Insteon/ISY-99i.

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: Bone head move 110 setting 220 wired

    I'm afraid it's going to be new motor time. Running a motor for a short while on 110 when it's set for 220 won't hurt it but running even a few seconds on 220 when it's set for 110 will fry the windings.

    Anyway a motor shop will be able to diagnose it and recommend a path forward.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
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    Re: Bone head move 110 setting 220 wired

    Thx Bama, thats what I was wondering. They fact taht it would kick on and off throws me off. I though if it fried that it wouldn't do anything.

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: Bone head move 110 setting 220 wired

    What's most likely happened is that it melted some of the insulation between the windings and that causes it to draw more current therefore creating more heat thereby causing the thermal cutout to trip.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

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