New TF-100 kit and high (55) CC reading

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Okay,

Have a couple hours before mother in law comes for the day, so I'm researching CCs and their removal.

As shown above, I've already shocked to the CYA guidance, but I did not reach the 10x CC level cited in the below article. (seems reputable and is cited in other guidance)
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/Chemi ... ntentID=81

Did having the pH low (<7.5, started with pH 6.8) prevent the shock from adequately removing the CC?

Would a non-chlorine (mono persulfate) shock (such as below) be helpful?
http://store.pinchapenny.com/product/Ch ... k-00000469

Anyone know where to find MSDS for Suncoast chemical pool products? It seems pretty hit or miss trying to google them.

Thanks!
-Paul
 
Hi James,

I would certainly expect chloroform in my pool water due to the large amount of citric acid used as well as it naturally occurring. It's routinely found wherever chorine is used as a disinfectant. (pools, drinking water, etc...)

However, you do raise an interesting point. Can it be fouling my CC readings? I don't have the "chlorine smell" which often comes with high CC levels. Also, the shock seemed to have no effect on the CC.

This paper (Erdinger et al) seems to indicate a half life of 2 hours for chloroform in pool water. It also states citric acid as a precursor to chloroform formation. For my situation, no citric acid has been added in over a month.
http://www.lims.hu/media/furdokonf/Engl ... ger1_p.pdf

Another, perhaps substantial, anecdote for my pool would be the removal of a large camphor tree back in February. Of course, sawdust and debris were well controlled by the screened pool enclosure and contractor's netting. However, it is quite reasonable that a large organic load was induced and has been kicking around since that time.

Maybe I just need to wait out the CC thing?
 
Have you used non-chlorine shock or MPS in the pool at all recently? They can interfere with the test and create a false CC reading.

The needing to shock to 10x the CC level story is a myth. It appears all over the place, yet is simply not true.

The high chlorine demand you were experiencing at the beginning is consistent with the use of citric acid. But nothing so far has even hinted at an explanation for your high CC reading. CC comes in a number of different forms. Not all of them have a perceptible smell.
 
Thanks Jason,

I have not used any non-chlorine shock, and about three years ago I stopped using powdered shock. Been pool store or grocery store bleach ever since.

Note the SWG was started up about 3-4 weeks ago with the addition of about 200lbs of salt.

The only chemicals used since January (including the pool service I had until April) are:
Suncoast Chlorine neutralizer
Suncoast all in one algicide
Suncoast Stop stains
Suncoast Stain gone
Suncoast Ultra mineral control
Suncoast Stabilizer
Suncoast Ultimate water clarifier
Suncoast Salinity stain control
Suncoast Pool salt
Suncoast Stop yellow
HTH Metal control
HTH Clarifier
Baking soda
Borax
Bleach
 
I think that the Suncoast Stop yellow is sodium bromide. However, some Yellow stop products are based on ammonia, which could account for the high CC levels if that's the case here.
 
Okay,

Got new reagents today, haven't put anything in the pool since bleaching last weekend.

FC: 4
PH: 6.8
CC: 27
TA: 60
CYA: 30
CH: Not Measured.

I've been trying to get the TA down from the 150s so I could add a box of Borax to bring the pH in line. Also 2 lbs of CYA in the skimmer. My earlier CYA readings were likely false due to dust/contaminants in the pool which got filtered out with DE last week.

Looks like another few days of shocking are needed to bring the CC down.

Another observation, not sure if it matters, but the new R-0870 was pure white and a fine grain whereas the stuff I was using last week had the color of rock salt and a coarser grain.

Thanks!
-Paul
 
Another question about the CC reading. Maybe because it's so high (still 25 to 30), but it seems to have a transient component. i.e. if I add the R-0871 quickly while stirring, it will go clear. However if I wait for 30 seconds or so, it turns pink again. More drops will eventually make it stay clear, but I'm scratching my head at it.

Doing an overnight FC test.
FC: 22
CC: 30
pH: 7.0

4lbs of Borax went in along with 2 lbs of CYA last night and this afternoon.
 

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Atredeis said:
Another question about the CC reading. Maybe because it's so high (still 25 to 30), but it seems to have a transient component. i.e. if I add the R-0871 quickly while stirring, it will go clear. However if I wait for 30 seconds or so, it turns pink again. More drops will eventually make it stay clear, but I'm scratching my head at it.
Click to expand...
If you let is sit too long it will always go back to pink.

How long between drops are you waiting?

Drops should be going in at <1/second I think. It is okay to go fast as long as you catch the endpoint.
 
Is the TA test similar? After 5 drops, it turned red, then back to green. After 7 droips, it turned red and stayed red.

7:00am
pH: 7.2
FC: 20 (it rained last night)
CC: 24
TA: 70
CYA: 40
 
Just wanted to thank everyone again and post current test results.

pH: 7.5
FC: 7
CC: 0
TA: 70
CH: 350
CYA: 45 (just added some a few days ago and am letting it climb)

The water looks spectacular. I'm still getting some minor organic stains on the bottom. About 5 brown splotches in random spots on the bottom, about the size of a penny. If a pour a gallon of bleach in, they'll go away. There are alot of trees in the neighborhood, so some stuff does get past the screened enclosure. Not sure they're worth fretting about.

It took about 20 1.4gal containers of bleach to bring the CC down over the course of a week or two. At the beginning, it seemed nothing was happening, but they started dropping dramatically after a while.

Thanks again!
-Paul
 
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