Does anyone know how the CS8110 salt sensor works?
The unit comes on for ~1min, starts generating chlorine, then posts Low Salt, starts beeping and stops product chlorine. I'd like to bypass the sensor or at least try to so we can generate chlorine and I will manage the salt levels via periodic testing.
The history:
We've had this Intex CS8110 SWG working flawlessly for the last 2 summers with a sunken above ground pool, ~8800 gals. Early this spring the low flow sensor started to fail. I proved it by jumping the sensor and the unit would come on and generate chlorine as expected. I ordered a new one and continued to allow the SWG to operate with the jumper inplace, then replaced it once it arrived. Everything was great for a few days and then the Low Salt light/sensor posted. Instead of testing the water as I was under the belief that the sensor was accurate, I just added a bag or two of salt. It appeared to work for another week or so and started posting Low Salt again...silly me just added another 2-3 bags of salt thinking our splash-out was über-bad last summer given all the use. It actually worked for a few more days to maybe a week and it started posting the Low Salt again. After reading somewhere that a user actually had too much salt and it posted the error, I finally decided to go get the water tested and pick up some test strips. The salt was out of control...like >5000! My test strips showed in the 7500 range. Given I recall we should be around the 3000 range, I drained ~75% of water and got it back in check (currently ~3050). Fired up the filter for about a day and then tried the SWG again, Low Salt posts still in ~1min.
Given my next step would be to replace the unit and I am fairly technically inclined (love tearing things apart), I thought I'd see what I can attempt to do to bypass the salt sensor so that the unit would not perform the check to possibly get one more season out of it.
I've checked the simple items, like ensuring there's ~24v being output from the board to the connector, all the connectors appear to be fine as well as the board,etc.
Any help/guidance would be greatly appreciated - I can post pictures and provide any further detail as needed. Thanks in advance!
The unit comes on for ~1min, starts generating chlorine, then posts Low Salt, starts beeping and stops product chlorine. I'd like to bypass the sensor or at least try to so we can generate chlorine and I will manage the salt levels via periodic testing.
The history:
We've had this Intex CS8110 SWG working flawlessly for the last 2 summers with a sunken above ground pool, ~8800 gals. Early this spring the low flow sensor started to fail. I proved it by jumping the sensor and the unit would come on and generate chlorine as expected. I ordered a new one and continued to allow the SWG to operate with the jumper inplace, then replaced it once it arrived. Everything was great for a few days and then the Low Salt light/sensor posted. Instead of testing the water as I was under the belief that the sensor was accurate, I just added a bag or two of salt. It appeared to work for another week or so and started posting Low Salt again...silly me just added another 2-3 bags of salt thinking our splash-out was über-bad last summer given all the use. It actually worked for a few more days to maybe a week and it started posting the Low Salt again. After reading somewhere that a user actually had too much salt and it posted the error, I finally decided to go get the water tested and pick up some test strips. The salt was out of control...like >5000! My test strips showed in the 7500 range. Given I recall we should be around the 3000 range, I drained ~75% of water and got it back in check (currently ~3050). Fired up the filter for about a day and then tried the SWG again, Low Salt posts still in ~1min.
Given my next step would be to replace the unit and I am fairly technically inclined (love tearing things apart), I thought I'd see what I can attempt to do to bypass the salt sensor so that the unit would not perform the check to possibly get one more season out of it.
I've checked the simple items, like ensuring there's ~24v being output from the board to the connector, all the connectors appear to be fine as well as the board,etc.
Any help/guidance would be greatly appreciated - I can post pictures and provide any further detail as needed. Thanks in advance!
my unit that had the exact same problems. This is only what I did. I am not suggesting you do it. After unplugging the unit and removing it from service. I removed the white cover with the electronic controls by removing the 4 phillips screws at the bottom and sliding it up. Once it is raised up enough you will see 4 thick wires that connect on the left side of the circut board. Two of these wires can be traced back to the transformer( which is under a seperate gray cover) and the other two wires will go to the salt cell. Use the screw driver to remove the wires from the circut board. What I did was connect them together, connect the two wires from the transformer to the two wires going to the salt cell. It does not matter which color goes to what color. You can reverse them and it will only reverse the polarity. Make sure and use wire nuts or black tape to keep them from touching each other or anything else. Once this is done I must warn you!