When trying to use my raypack heater, i can hear the igniter clicking, then after a few seconds a explosion of some type and it actually blows the front cover off. It makes a buzzing noise and then when it tries to ignite again it does the same thing. i tried to ignite it once with the door off and was able to get it let and then it worked fine until i shut it down and tried to ignite again and then the same problem. i replaced the igniter tube and assembly last week and it worked great for a few days before this.
Raypac 406A problem
- Thread starter GZelano
- Start date
Keep the heater off until it can be serviced by a qualified technician!
There are multiple possible causes, and probably more than one problem with the heater. Most likely, the heat exchanger is sooted, which will impede airflow, and trap combustible gasses in the heater.
There are multiple possible causes, and probably more than one problem with the heater. Most likely, the heat exchanger is sooted, which will impede airflow, and trap combustible gasses in the heater.
Pool Clown
In The Industry
What is happening is either the pilot did not quite get replaced back exactly where it should be, or the first one or two burner rails are clogged(probably spiders). So instead of the pilot igniting off the first rail, it must wait till gas from the third or fourth rail gets to the pilot. That causes a buildup of raw gas, and when it ignites, it is igniting all that gas at once, hence the door flying across the yard. If you can get it fired again, carefully look under to see the burner firing. Can you see the rails? Do you see fire on all the rails? Even the closest to the pilot? If not, you must have the burner tray removed and cleaned of whatever is blocking them.
Thanks, i got it fired and i am not sure but i believe the first rail is not firing. Is there a simple way to remove the burner tray. I tried looking online and in my manual, but not sure how i go about removing. I enclosed a picture of the inside front of my unit.
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So i had a Pool Service Company come out and look at my heater. Unfortunately they came when i wasn't home. The paper work says that the burner tray is almost completely deteriorated on the right side and the bottom of the cabinet is also rusted through. Advising to replace the heater. Is this necessary ? Believe it or not the Heater is only 5 years old.
Pool Clown
In The Industry
That floor does not look rusted enough to need a new heater. Maybe it's the picture. can you stick your screwdriver through the floor pan? If you can not, it's not rusted enough yet. Sheet metal screws at red circles, one more at end of red arrow. Blue high tension wire stays connected at pilot and disconnects at board(if needed). Disconnect wires to gas valve(mark them). Then disconnect gas line, and tray should slide right out. When you get it out, take another pic of the underside, and will show how to clean rails and or the jets. Black burn mark on the right side almost confirms you have a blocked rail.
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Ok so i got the burner assembly out and i found that the whole right side of the assembly is gone. Also the floor is completely rust through on on the right side, and even the side panel braces appear to be gone (pics attached). Since i did have this running, is it feasable to get a new burner assembly and then put some new metal on the floor for the assembly to sit on ? This Heater is only 5 years old and not used very often.
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Pool Clown
In The Industry
WOW, the first pic was not as reveling as these...
I wouldn't advise repair of this heater. You may have had a ongoing leak between the exchanger and the header(s). And that's what caused the premature rust out. It may not have been a big leak, just a constant slow one.
My condolences on your loss.
I wouldn't advise repair of this heater. You may have had a ongoing leak between the exchanger and the header(s). And that's what caused the premature rust out. It may not have been a big leak, just a constant slow one.
My condolences on your loss.
Thanks for your help. What brand heaters do you recommend. Since i have converted almost everything over to Jandy, Would you advise using their Heater as well ? Pool and spa so i guess another 400K BTU ?
Pool Clown
In The Industry
Raypak is a good heater. Understandable if you don't agree. Whatever you go with, get another 400K.
I tell all of my customers 5-7 years max on a heater. I stand by Raypak/Rheem. I see the issues in your pictures all the time.
Looks like you might have had a lot of condensation dripping down on those burners to rust the tray out. Also when you do replace the unit, if you have a underground sprinkler system, make sure you do not have any sprinkler heads in the area of the heater. I also recommend to my customers that if the roof overhang doesn't have a gutter above the heater, if roof is sloped so, put a section of gutter up to help move water away from the equipment pad. A cheap but great investment.
Also, before you get rid of the old heater, if the water connections are on the right side where the damage is, check and see if there is any evidence of water leaking from the header. If so, then you found the problem as to why it rusted out.
Looks like you might have had a lot of condensation dripping down on those burners to rust the tray out. Also when you do replace the unit, if you have a underground sprinkler system, make sure you do not have any sprinkler heads in the area of the heater. I also recommend to my customers that if the roof overhang doesn't have a gutter above the heater, if roof is sloped so, put a section of gutter up to help move water away from the equipment pad. A cheap but great investment.
Also, before you get rid of the old heater, if the water connections are on the right side where the damage is, check and see if there is any evidence of water leaking from the header. If so, then you found the problem as to why it rusted out.
OK Advise needed again. I am shopping online forthe best price i can find on a new raypak and some of the sites say that the cupro-nickel is a must if you have a salt water pool. Is this true or is the same heater i had ok. Mine was a P-R406A-EN-C. Also when looking a find the same model # but it doesn't show the "c" on the end. are both models the same ?
Pool Clown
In The Industry
C is for Capron, a plastic header. Get the Cupro nickel. Not as soft as copper. Will hold up better to erosion, and will tolerate bad chems better than copper.