Pool Pilot Nano - Salt Level

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Alynn

Alynn

0
Jun 3, 2010
52
Jacksonville, FL
I live in Florida and keep my pool open all winter. We run the pump 6 hours a day. For about the last 3 months, the display has shown the salt level at 3500.

Now I'm getting algae about every 2 weeks, and have to shock with liquid chlorine. Could something be wrong with my unit? It was installed last June.

Thanks in advance,
Alynn
 
It is extremely important to know the CYA level. If the CYA level is too low it can lead to exactly the problems you describe. The best solution is to get a better test kit that includes a CYA test. Alternatively you can get your water tested by a pool store (though their results are a little hit or miss).
 
Thanks! I will be purchasing the TFTESTKITS this week.

Also, one more question, please... I am treating for green algae (minor) and I still have a small spot that won't brush off. Is it possible that it has stained, or is is a spot that I haven't killed the algae, yet?

Thank you for all of your help....

I also found that my filter cartridge was completely full of oak tree "pollen pods", after only 2 days.....I think that the poor filtering has thrown everything off.
 
Thanks. It seems that the dead / dying algae has left white/grey spots in a couple of places. It won't brush off. Is it possible that there is another reason for the light spots?

I just received my TF-100 today, but didn't have time to start testing. I will test tomorrow as soon as I get home from work, and post the results.

I still have a couple of light green places, but they're small and much lighter after I added chlorine over the weekend. Do I still need to go through the shocking process?

I will also post my stats with regard to pool size, and equipment tomorrow.


This is a super place to learn about taking care of my pool!!! We had our marmite pool replastered last June with a pebble type finish and we love it, but I want to protect my investment!

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Thanks, all!

I seem to have started the process of getting the pool on the right, level path, thanks to all you and TFP.com..

I still am very concerned about the white-ish gray spots (about 8" around).. Could they be from calcium scaling? I had problems with my test drop bottle, but, as best I could tell, my CH is over 600.. I emailed tftestkits and received a very quick, helpful response to what I might have been doing wrong. So I will try the test tomorrow

A little background... We had the 30 something year old pool resurfaced last June with a pebble-tec type finish - medium gray/blue and we absolutely LOVE it.

We have not had any major issues, Only a couple bouts of algae that i finally have gotten a handle on, with the help of you guys and TFP.
I have a SWCG.

I took a couple of photos, but it was sprinkling, so it's hard to tell what you're looking at.

Any and all help would be appreciated. I hope I haven't ruined my (expensive) pool finish.

:-(

Thanks,
Alynn


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Test results - 9:00 p.m.

FC - 5
CC - -0-
pH - 7.8
TA - 90
CH - 360*. Figured out correct way to test. Tap water tested at 110
Salt - 3200
CYA - <10 (Black dot invisible if tube is totally full. Just added 4 lbs this past Sat. From -0- not sure if it would show anything on test yet. Will test again this Sat, and add more CYA, as needed.)
Water temp. - 78*

If I'm correct, I need also lower pH to 7.5 and work on the TA. I am planning on lowering the TA by the method listed in pool school by lowering ph with MA then aerating.

Have not added chlorine since shocking last weekend. But the weather has been rainy and overcast this week.

Let me know what issues you see, and if these results tell you anything about my white-ish patches....

Thanks again!

Alynn
 
Nothing in your test results suggests the possibility of calcium scaling, which your description hinted at. But that low CYA level is a major problem and certainly the cause of your algae issues. CYA should be between 70 and 80 for use with a SWG.

Because you have algae right now, you should raise CYA to 30 or 40 for the moment, then make sure there isn't any remaining algae, and only then take the CYA level up to the 70-80 range. You said that you added 4 lbs. That will raise CYA by about 20 to 30. That is marginal for shocking, but perhaps enough. Personally I would add another 4 lbs right away, then make sure you completely eradicate the algae.
 
Thanks, Jason. I appreciate your quick response. Any other ideas what the spots could be?

I will be adding the CYA tomorrow, as soon as I can get to the store to pick some up. I'm off work for the next 4 days, so I should be able to take care of things quickly..

Thanks again!

Alynn
 
Since I still need to add so much CYA, can I mix it with water in a 5 gallon bucket and add it that way? I know the recommended way is the "old sock method", I guess I'm just looking for a 'quicker' way.......

Also, in using the sock method, I've read where you can kneed it every so often to help it dissolve...is it safe to kneed it with your bare hands?

Thanks,

Alynn
 
Quicker isn't better in this case. CYA doesn't dissolve at all easily. You won't be able to dissolve it in a bucket of water.

The simplest thing to do with the sock is to put it in the skimmer (as long as it doesn't block the water flow). That dissolves about as fast as you can hope for. It is safe to touch with your bare hands.
 
Thanks! Just got back from the store. Starting the shock process again to get rid of faint green algae.

Got my CYA and will start adding it. Think I'll stick with the sock method, as I already have the 'setup'. I'm just not a very patient person.....

Numbers as of 9:00 a.m.

FC - 4.5
Ph - 7.4

CYA ~10

Raising FC to 12 for shocking.

Thanks, Alynn
 
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