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pr1961

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Apr 22, 2012
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kansas
First Post but have been reading on here for 2 weeks. Ok here we go.

My Pool is a IG 16x32 18200gal sand filter 62gpm surface is plaster. I have Drained my pool and Im sold on the this method for my pool. I have bought the taylor 2006 test kit.

Once my pool was full I did put 4 3in puck in my skimmer and 4 in a floater the pump has been running for over 24hr since filled. I also added 21oz of algacide 60 plus. I took all the 3in pucks out this moring. So the puck have been in there for time to get my chlorine to 3 useing my old test kit.

I just ran all the test and here are my #s FC-0 CYA-0 PH above 8.0 Ta 70 Ch 90. What is next for me?

I have used the pool calculator and for adding bleach which I have 20gal of it say to use 113oz and add 24oz Acid for the PH TA add nothing CH add 458 oz of Calcium Choloride which I have no Idea what this is and for the CYA 97 oz of Stablizer. I ran these Test at 5pm with the new 2006 kit. What is next?

Thank you for this web site and Im sure all my Questions have the answers on this site but I do not want to keep putting pucks in with the new water but also I do not want to wake up to a green Pool.
 
Not sure why CYA was 0 when you were using pucks..but maybe that's because they were not in the pool very long.

It sounds like you are off to a good start. Pool School and the Pool Calculator will help steer you in the right direction.

I would add stabilizer (CYA) and liquid chlorine to get some FC in your pool asap. This will keep you from waking up to a green pool!

As the pool calculator suggests, you will also want to get your pH and CH in order. You will want to get your pH close to 7.6 and your CH between 250-350.

Oh yea...welcome to TFP! :wave:
 
Welcome to the forum. :lol:

1. Bring your pH down. get some muriatic acid and keep your ph below 8.0 at all times

2. You can put your pucks back in for a while if it's convenient. Starting from zero, you could use 30 or so pucks at first and still not get your CYA too high, but then stop using them and adjust your CYA by adding the powdered version to get to 60ppm

Now, those guidelines on the pool calculator are for an existing, old pool. Your pool is certainly a new pool (right?) and requires a different approach.

Hold off on adding and CH.....it'll come up on it's own for a while

If you decide to put the pucks back in, hold off on the CYA as well.

Forget TA for now.

EDIT: Blake's post assumes you will not use the pucks. If that's the case follow his advice except I would hold off on the CH for now.

Assuming you go back to the pucks, you only need to focus on enough pucks to keep your FC above 2-3ppm.

Are you brushing the pool surfaces?
 
Thanks for the Quick reply. I have no idea why the CYA test was 0. Unless I tested it wrong. I know the black dot in the tube was very clear to see when tested. I will stay in School and do what it comes up with.One dumb question and Im sure more will be asked. What do I use for the Stabilizer for the (CYA). I will add the acid tonight for the PH. Should I go ahead and add the bleach 113oz ? I really do not want to put any pucks in if the bleach will keep some Chlorine in the pool. It is a older Pool that was drained and cleaned then refilled. My thinking was it would be easy for me to start off with new water. Last year while useing the pool store junk my chlorine level was always good but was fighting the green stuff not pea soup bbut just showing on the walls a little. And no Im not Brushing the surfaces but will start. The pool is clear as can be right now.
 
Well, I made a big assumption assuming your plaster was new and not just your water. Ok, let's start over.

In that case, I really like blake's advice better than mine so stay with his post.

Your CYA was zero in that you simply had not used the pucks very much and it was probably 5ppm or so but you cannot detect that low. Not to worry.

Yours is a common question...you buy CYA as CYA. You can get it at Lowe's HD, Poolstore etc. It may say CYA, stabilizer or conditioner but it is all the same thing.

There's no need for you to brush since your plaaster is not new...although that's never a bad idea if yu have some spare time :lol:
 
I will go back to Blakes post. The acid for the PH was just added. I did go ahead and add 118oz of bleach no pucks. I will go get some CYA tommrow and add this. No more pool stores. Thank you so much for your Help! I will keep posting after test results and will stay in School WOW so much info! If I would of only known about this place years ago the money I could have saved. But better late then never.
 
Do you plan on draining every year?
If so then rock on with all that has been said here,so far.
But if hare planning on keeping the water for a few years then
I would suggest starting your CYA off at a much lower number.... Say 30 ppm
Then let the pucks add to that over the the pool season.
That is if you are using tri-clor tablets.

Just a thought.
 
Dave,

I didn't calc it, I was just speaking from personal experience, ...that if
He was going to keep his water for as long as possible, he may want to start
His CYA at the lowest number possible, while still getting an FC reading.
Because the tri-clor would add more and more over time.
I have found that at 25-30 ppm I can start getting a reliable FC reading.
 

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I know Im lost. I will be useing Bleach. When I filled the pool I had some pucks and put them in the skimmer until my new test kit came and had time to buy the bleach. The pucks were in for only 16 hr with the filter running non stop. Tonight I got my kit and bleach and checked my water with the new test kit giveing the #s I posted. I do not plan on drain the pool every year. I did go ahead and added 113oz of bleach tonight and acid for the PH. I hope I did not screw up. Thanks for any Info
 
Note that the cyanuric acid will lower the pH by 0.74. Therefore, you might want to avoid adding too much muriatic acid until the cyanuric acid has dissolved in. Try not to lower the pH to less than 7.8 or 7.9 with the muriatic acid.
 
I only added 1/2 of what was called for. I will check to see what the Ph has done on the next test. New to this BBB method and looking forward it. Sorry if my post have been confusing but Im a bridge contractor in kansas for the last 30 years and trust me KDOT will make you this way. Thanks
 
Hey pr1961 and welcome to the forum :wave:

You hit the ground running with fresh water and a good test kit :goodjob:

It can take up to a week for the CYA to show on the test, so don't waste your reagents testing for it yet. :wink: But, do keep up with how much you add. You will want your CYA between 30 and 50ish. If your pool is in full sun, I suggest you aim for around 50. Now, that being said, if you plan to use pucks while away on vacation then you may want to aim lower around 30 so you will have room for extra CYA that would be added later from the pucks.

CH add 458 oz of Calcium Choloride which I have no Idea what this is and
Click to expand...
Well, it's some of that stuff used to de-ice those bridges :mrgreen: - but here's a list that is TFP approved for the pool:
Calcium hardness can be raised with calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate. They are available in some areas as Peladow, Dowflake, Tetra Flake, or Tetra 94, often sold as a deicer by hardware stores, and some big box stores, in colder climates. Pool stores will carry either calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate under a variety of names, including Hardness Plus, Balance Pak 300, Calcium Hardness Increaser, etc. Calcium products should be spread across the surface of the deep end of the pool.
Click to expand...

I did go ahead and added 113oz of bleach tonight and acid for the PH. I hope I did not screw up.
Click to expand...
That is exactly what you were supposed to do :goodjob:
 
Thanks everybody! You are right They do use that on the bridges up here I should of known that one! Should I work on the CYA first? From what I understand thanks to alot of help here I can buy this at Lowes or hardware stores. The pool calculater states I need 97 oz correct me If Im wrong but I put this in a sock then in the skimmer?Or can I work on the CYA and CH at the same Time? Thanks for the info on Testing I know Im going to have to buy some extra cyanuric Acid Reagent.In the Taylor Test kit will I be needing the DPD Reagent since switching over to bleach to check the FC and CC? Man There is a lot of little bottles in the kit. Im use to the old puck way stick a strip in looks good and go on. Pool looks clear today but they are saying Thunderstorms tonight hope she holds up with the Rain we need it Sprinkler on in the yard first time ever for April but the grass is already turning brown. Thanks Guys!
 
Sorry I Tested wrong on my Chlorine. Like I said man there alot of bottles in the kit! After info from here on how to use it my free chlorine is 3.8 combined 0.6. Use the pool calculater and to add 45oz on the bleach. This is the only test I did this morning. So I still have to add for my CYA and so on. Man the Pool Calculater is a great tool!!!
 
Keep rocking,
And keep using the pool calculator, it is a great tool.
But from my understanding - know that 1 pound
Of stabilizer will raise 5000 gallons 25ppm.
3.7 lbs or 59 oz would get you to 25 ppm
7.375 lbs or 118 oz would get you to 50ppm

( sometimes its good to know how to get there too)

Good luck
 

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