How far is too far... when is too green too green?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
F

FixItPete

0
Apr 7, 2012
152
Been doing A LOT of reading... and I just don't know. Pool pump has been broken for about 5 weeks now... pool is dark green.

I've been reading and reading and reading -- some folks say that there is a point where you want to pump it out and start over -- others say that it can fixed.

What say you?

Pool is in SE Florida.

Thanks!
Pete
 
Get a lot of bleach.

There are risks to fully draining just about any pool.

Only reasons for partial drains are high CYA, CH, and salt.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone :)
 
It really depends on how large your pool is and what kind of pool it is. For smaller above ground pools the simplest thing is to dump it out and start over. For in-ground pools and larger above ground pools you should clean it up with the water left in place.
 
I'll have the pump problem solved this week... I'm thinking I'm going to work with the water that is there now. I've got a few plans to follow for this. (In ground, approx 400 sf pool, diamond brite...)

Any suggestions or thoughts (links, etc.) -- greatly appreciated! :)

Pete
 
If there is tons of leaves at the bottom of the pool I would recommend draining. If it's just green because of no chemicals and filtration then you can clear it up pretty easily with chlorine and vacuuming etc. There was a safety cover pool that we cleared up after being closed for years and years. The algae got so bad in the pool that is formed solid masses in the deep end, the pool started to clear up after heavy shocking but the mass in the deep end would actually clog the vacuuming equipment head like sucking up drapes. The chlorine couldn't make it deep enough into the mass to break it down. We ended up shocking the pool heavily while brushing the mass this caused it to disperse and die which made it easy to vacuum.
 
[center:10j1wpiz][attachment=0:10j1wpiz]joefriday.jpg[/attachment:10j1wpiz]
A whole lot depends on what the test results are.

If the CYA is 240, just as an example, yes, you need to drain a lot.

We need facts.[/center:10j1wpiz]
 

Attachments

  • joefriday.jpg
    joefriday.jpg
    53.4 KB · Views: 244
Understood. I will first fix the pump and make sure the filter is as it should be. From there I will take and report back here test results. :)
Terrific forum - Very appreciative to have found you!

Thanks,
Pete

P.S. Edit: NO leaves at all... it began to go green about 1 week after the pump died. Pool was very nice before then.
 
There is no such thing as too green IMO. Mine has been black before when I couldn't open until May because of plumbing issues, and I had it swimmable inside a week.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Mind you... the pump motor had the dreaded "hum"... indicative of a bad capacitor (as learned here)... Well... First things first. I tested the capacitor as per the various methods shown on various sites... all of which told me the the capacitor was bad. I went to buy the capacitor with only my old capacitor in hand -- fella behind the counter tested it with his capacitor tester and it read just about the mid-point of the range written on the cap. He offered to test the motor which I had in the truck by putting in a new capacitor -- still no go. We took the housing impeller off the housing and we found TWO seals (like O-Rings) where there should have been one (Hayward pump) -- the pump was spinning but NOT very freely -- there was a lot of resistance.

The old pump motor was an Emerson EUST1102 replaced with an AO Smith... I can find the AO Smith for $140 (approx) online, but that doesn't get me the seals, etc...

I guess what I'm asking, and pardon me for being paranoid, but does that sound like the motor was bad or did I get taken?

Thanks,
Pete

P.S. Now -- on to getting the water clear! :)

With everything off the motor he was able to get the motor to spin with a little "help" to start it. This is all from him telling me -- I didn't witness it (he took it in the back and put it on the bench).

Long story short -- we ended up getting a new motor with all new seals -- I will say that the impeller moves more freely than it did before.

I know it won't help me with the rest of my problems (getting the pool clear/clean) -- but it will help me with my long term knowledge of things... you think I got taken? Total cost (new motor, seals, etc. $195 including tax). This is an
 
Thanks for the feedback. I'm having a lot of fun learning about all this... cleaned up the filter (got the PSI down to 18 (about the lowest I can get it)) Got the PH down to target (it was sky high) -- took about 12 drops to bring it to the proper color... roughly a 1/2 gal of mur. acid later and we're right on target. Free Ch. was not registering (liquid NEVER turned pink) -- added 3 lbs of shock and some liquid -- now the Free CH level is (and I hope it's ok) -- off the chart. I stopped at 50 drops and it was still pink (couldn't turn it clear) -- so it's got to be well over 12PPM -- but I really don't know... I'm starting to be able to see the first step and just an outline of the second step -- hopefully when I check on it later it'll be even better...

I was a little concerned that I couldn't measure FC after I shocked it, etc... but from reading here it appears normal.

Will keep updated. :)

Pete
 
Shocking is not a one time ... throw a bunch of stuff in the pool thing. It is a process involving accurate testing and dosages to maintain FC level above the shock value. Sounds like you should review the how to shock article in pool school or clearly your pool will not go as smoothly and quickly as it could.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone :)
 
Why aiming for 6 ppm? What type of "shock " did you add? Did it raise your CYA level? What us your CYA level so that you know what your shock FC target is?

Would help to post a full set of levels.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone :)
 
Have it all written at the house. Everything calculated to target a 6PPM for FC and maintain it there by adding additional liquid (10%). I likely need to better compute the total number of gal. the pool holds, hence why the FC PPM was so high... I'll do another battery of tests shortly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply