Hard Piping an Intex AGP

[rodneymiller]

I want to hard pipe my intex 16 X 48. Thanks to all the input this forum has given me. I have installed my hayward skimmer and I would like to replace the intex return nozzle with the return that came with the skimmer. I would also like to hardpipe it. My question is when I connect PVC to the skimmer and the return via some male adapters how to I ensure I can take it apart should something go wrong. Once I clean and glue the PVC if anything should ever happen I basically need to replace all my PVC, or so I think. I am assuming this is not the case otherwise so many people would not have done this already so I am looking for how others have accomplished this task.

Thanks

 

[duraleigh]

Welcome to the forum. :lol: How about using unions? http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... A&dur=1865

 

[mpacheco72]

I can give you a list of all the hardware we used if that'll help:
(3) 1 1/2 male adaptors (these screw into the pump, filter and backwash outlets) (.94 each)
(11) 1 1/2 90 degree elbows--this is dependent on if you bury your lines and the layout of your plumbing system (.83 each)
(1) 1 1/2 45 degree elbow (.80 each)
(2) 1 1/2 couplers (.56 each)
(2) 1-1/2" T-Handle PVC Single Union Ball Valve (9.34 each)
(2) 1-1/2" PVC Compression Coupling (7.26 each)
(3) 10 feet sections of 1-1/2" PVC Pipe (4.75 each)
(2) Cantex 1 1/2 Box Adapters (1.36 each)
(1) PVC Pipe Joint Compound (3.82 each)
(1) Roll of Plumber Tape (1.18 each)

This is everything we needed to move our pump 5 feet away from our pool and bury our pipes.

 

[mpacheco72]

All of that is available at Lowe's.

 

[redraider83]

Hi RodneyMiller,

I am seriously contemplating installing a Hayward inwall skimmer into my Intex 15' x 48". Can you please share your experience in doing this? Are you using a wide mouth skimmer or one of the square ones? How far up did you mount it?

I would believe that the widemouth is a better choice, since it will allow for the water level to to be closer to the top, vs. the square one.

If you have any pics, that would be awesome!!!

Thanks!

Kurt

 

[rodneymiller]

As soon as my setup is complete I will post some pictures. I did not go with the widemouth. I went with the square one and I mounted it as high as I possibly could. I cut right along where the seam meets the wall.

 

[rodneymiller]

Thank you mpacheco72 the list definitely helps. I am assuming the single union ball valves allow you to disconnect in case it's necessary? Do you have any pics of your setup?

 

[mpacheco72]

 

[mpacheco72]

Hope that helps. Some of the pics are a little crooked but overall you get the idea.

 

[carlscan26]

Are those L's (90 degree fittings) true PVC Schedule 40? They look more like Drain/Wast/Vent fittings are are not designed to be under pressure...I can't tell if the 45s are the same or not.

 

[jblizzle]

I agree with Carl. Those fittings do not look like pressure rated schedule 40 pvc fittings.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone

 

[mpacheco72]

You're right. My bil, the plumber, said they were wrong this evening.

 

[Melt In The Sun]

Do those compression fittings work OK? I don't think I've even seen those used on pool plumbing before.

 

[mpacheco72]

The compression fittings are awesome.

 

[Bama Rambler]

The compression fittings are awesome.

I agree with that! I use them all the time on water line repairs. Quick, easy and they apply under water.

 

[jblizzle]

Interesting use of the compression fittings instead of the unions we typically see. Prices seems similar. If you leave a significant gap between the two pipe ends, I would have to think the they would add more turbulence to the flow than a union would and possibly a little more head loss ... thoughts?

 

[Bama Rambler]

I'd think they'd be comparable to a union, maybe even a little less dur to the fact that you'll have reamed ends on the pipe but there's a double partition in the union.

 

[linen]

Do those compression fittings work OK? I don't think I've even seen those used on pool plumbing before.

I also use them on my pool to connect my pipes coming out of the ground to my return pipe and my skimmer pipe. It makes it easy to line up the two pipe sections when putting it all together when opening. My original thougt in using them was if my underground pipes moved due to frost, I had enough slop using these fittings to deal with it in the spring. I am not sure, but I do not think my pipes have moved over the two winters I have had them in the ground. They have caused me no trouble, and like bama said, do not restrict flow (not sure of the turbulence effect however).

 

[carlscan26]

Don't sweat the turbulence - unless you're cavitating at the pump. I can't imagine the effect on efficiency would be significant. On the return side you care about turbulence pre SWCG but there are plenty of installs on this site where there isn't the recommended straight section of pipe before and after the cell.

This thread kind of points out the over-thinking of projects - and trust me, I over-think plenty of my own. But I think (haha) that there's too much worry about maximizing plumbing efficiency etc. by worrying about a 90 vs a sweep etc. By far the biggest player is pipe diameter and run length. Mas985 really dives into the details and optimizations etc and it's amazing what he knows and can predict and calculate etc. But even he says all the time not to over-think the efficiency of 90s etc. Don't have a spaghetti mess sure.

Not trying to pick on the OP here - you're new here so please don't let me scare you away. Hey maybe you weren't even trying to optimize flow and I'm twice as silly for writing this rant. In closing I guess I'm saying keep it simple

 

[laweatherred]

We are wanting to do the same for our Morgan AGP....we have always had the pump and filter fairly close to the pool wall....does that matter or should we put it further away?? Also, did you guys determine those were the right fittings for the water flow?? Thanks!!