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Thread: Chemical Reading after Refill - Need Advice

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    Chemical Reading after Refill - Need Advice

    Hi Everyone, I just did a Chlorine Wash/Refill as I was battling black algea and the plaster looks just emaculate now as well as the pool water. I was wondering if someone could please give me some advice on my chemical readings? A bit of backstory first. The pool started over with high calcium readings and black algea spots around all of the walls. Tried scrubbing and adding tons of Chlorine before draining too but the pool was not holding any chlorine no matter what I did and I figured a fresh start over would really help. Not heavy blotches, but just tons of maybe dime shaped spots all over primarly the walls. Once I confirmed this was black algea I did a grid teardown and cleaning and I drained the pool and used a putty knife to scrape off all of the waxy surfaces so the real fight could begin. Then I gave it a good brushing with a wire algea brush and then I poured chlorine (6 gallons) down the walls over every single inch of the plaster. I waited about 15 mins and then I hosed all the chlorine off. All spots in the pool completely disappeared like magic. I have since refilled it and I'm not real sure what I need to do to get my pool stable so per my test strips here is where I'm at. This is with adding 1 gallon of muratic acid in too as my first test ~ 2 hours after fill and filter system on showed very high PH.

    Results: 12 hours after refill and 4 hours after 1 gallon of Muratic Acid

    Total Hardness: 500 - OK
    Total Chlorine / Total Bromine: 1 / 2 - OK
    Free Chlorine: 0.5 - Low
    PH: 6.8 - Low
    Total Alk: 80 - OK
    Cyanuric Acid: 0 - Low

    I'm not sure if I need to be more patient and test it again in 24 hours or should I be doing something more right now. I've heard that new fills can be someone difficult to stabalize and I want to be sure my pool had good chemistry now as that was a lot of work to fix the black algea issue. Since I live in Arizona, I do want to keep my chlorine levels above high but right now I'm not sure if I'm even getting inaccurate readings I'm thinking so to say due to the new water fill. I just dont want it to be back to square one that for some unanswered reason, my chlorine will not stay because that was the whole point of me even draining it this late/hot in the year. Any advice would be extremely welcome!

    Thanks,

    JFAZ

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    duraleigh's Avatar
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    Re: Chemical Reading after Refill - Need Advice

    Welcome to the forum. Start in Pool School with "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" At some point as you continue to read, you will find that no one here has any faith in testing with strips....none, nada!

    I have to put a disclaimer here because I sell the kit most people use. That said, everything on this forum is about understanding Pool Water Chemistry and testing it VERY accurately and knowing what to do with the results.

    For now, you need chlorine in your pool and you need some CYA in your pool. Do you have something other than strips to at least test for Chlorine and pH?
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Chemical Reading after Refill - Need Advice

    Welcome to tfp, JFAZ

    As duraleigh said, you are going to need a better test kit (see link in my sig).

    I wish you had found us before you did the drain, we may have been help you fix your pool without the drain. With that said, even doing what you did, you probably still have to go through the shocking process. It is a process. Here is another pool school article for you to read: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...efeating_algae much of this applies to killing black algae as well.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Chemical Reading after Refill - Need Advice

    Thanks for the info. I did read up more on the Chemistry. I just added 4 pounds of Trichlor granuals in hopes that this starts holding my chlorine and then adjust as needed from there. I understandabout a better test kit but I just have spent a lot on these strips and I would like to use these up first. I'm hoping to get stability here soon.

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Chemical Reading after Refill - Need Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by JFAZ
    Thanks for the info. I did read up more on the Chemistry. I just added 4 pounds of Trichlor granuals in hopes that this starts holding my chlorine and then adjust as needed from there. I understandabout a better test kit but I just have spent a lot on these strips and I would like to use these up first. I'm hoping to get stability here soon.
    False economy. I had some strips. They were useless. I wouldn't get the same reading back-to-back. It depended too much on how much the colors bled into the neighbor.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Chemical Reading after Refill - Need Advice

    Not to beat a dead horse, but Richard320 is not alone. The experience on here by many posters is the strips are not going to cut it (use the google search at the bottom left of page if you are interested). Many times they are so far off that using those values worsens the situation.

    In addition to the links we already provided above, please look at this link as well:http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...king_your_pool If you are going to do the shocking process, you might as well do it right

    What is your pool volume and surface. It would help us if you put your pool details in your signature. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...efore_you_post
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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