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Thread: TF100 results (5/7 update), back to green in a 2 hour span!!

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    TF100 results (5/7 update), back to green in a 2 hour span!!

    Ok - so the TF100 came in the mail today, and I ran the tests. Here's what I found in the green monster out back...

    Chlorine - 0
    TA - 30
    Calcium - 50
    PH - 8.2
    CYA - essentially zero (full tube and dot still very visible)

    So (once I get the new pump I ordered today), the question is, where do I start?

    Do I shock the pool focusing only on chlorine until I get that level up (and the algae cleared), or do I tackle chlorine and CYA at the same time?
    Pool details:

    18x36 Vinyl In-Ground pool
    25,000-30,000 gallons (estimate, will know more when I can get in and get an average depth)
    DE filter
    Pump info unknown - I'll get that soon!

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: Test Kit results

    The TA of 30 with a pH of 8.2 kinda contradicts each other but you need to get the pH down to the mid 7's before anything else. Then I'd test the TA again and adjust it. Then start shocking if the water isn't clear.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Test Kit results

    Assuming all leaves/trash are scooped out as best you can and pump is running....


    1. Using baking soda, raise TA to 50.
    2. Using muriatic acid, lower pH to 7.2
    3. Then retest TA and adjust further if needed
    4. Hang a sock of CYA to get about 30
    5. Start shocking per Pool School article. Use 10 FC for shock level to start.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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    Re: Test Kit results

    Quote Originally Posted by Butterfly
    Assuming all leaves/trash are scooped out as best you can and pump is running....


    1. Using baking soda, raise TA to 50.
    2. Using muriatic acid, lower pH to 7.2
    3. Then retest TA and adjust further if needed
    4. Hang a sock of CYA to get about 30
    5. Start shocking per Pool School article. Use 10 FC for shock level to start.
    Wow - thank you. I had that completely backwards. I figured I had to get the pool cleaned up before I could work on the other levels, apparently it is the other way around! Thanks again!
    Pool details:

    18x36 Vinyl In-Ground pool
    25,000-30,000 gallons (estimate, will know more when I can get in and get an average depth)
    DE filter
    Pump info unknown - I'll get that soon!

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Test Kit results

    Youre welcome! Now, I was assuming that the pump had been running/circulating the water at least an hour before you tested the water, correct?

    If not, then do so and retest before you make any chemistry changes
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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    Re: Test Kit results

    Ok - one quick question.

    How long should I wait between each of these items? An hour? A day? Something else? I know CYA often doesn't register a change for as much as a week, but that you can figure the level has been raised once the CYA crystals have been dissolved. But what about the others - how quickly can I move from one treatment to the next?

    Thanks!
    Pool details:

    18x36 Vinyl In-Ground pool
    25,000-30,000 gallons (estimate, will know more when I can get in and get an average depth)
    DE filter
    Pump info unknown - I'll get that soon!

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Test Kit results

    Quote Originally Posted by mickeyfan0805
    Ok - one quick question.

    How long should I wait between each of these items? An hour? A day? Something else? I know CYA often doesn't register a change for as much as a week, but that you can figure the level has been raised once the CYA crystals have been dissolved. But what about the others - how quickly can I move from one treatment to the next?

    Thanks!
    With the pump running and some brushing, an hour should be plenty of time. Baking Soda, Muriatic Acid, and Bleach are all very soluble.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
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    Re: Test Kit results

    I'm a little lost and need input.

    As stated above, my CYA is effectively 0, as is my FC. The previous poster suggested I need to raise my CYA before I shock the pool. However, here's the problem...

    To raise my CYA, I need to run the pump for at least 24 straight hours so the CYA can cycle through. There is so much algae, however, that I can't run the pump for more than an hour without having to clean it out (the cartridges become completely coated in algae).

    What do I do? Do I need to spring for liquid CYA to get it mixed through faster? Is there a different option?
    Pool details:

    18x36 Vinyl In-Ground pool
    25,000-30,000 gallons (estimate, will know more when I can get in and get an average depth)
    DE filter
    Pump info unknown - I'll get that soon!

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

    If it's that bad don't worry about the CYA yet. Go ahead and start shocking if you're sure that you have as much debris out as you can get. The sun will burn up a little bit but it won't be much in the long run.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

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    Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

    Quote Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
    If it's that bad don't worry about the CYA yet. Go ahead and start shocking if you're sure that you have as much debris out as you can get. The sun will burn up a little bit but it won't be much in the long run.
    Should I try to vacuum 'blind' before I shock - just to try to get more out? I've gotten as much off the top as I can.
    Pool details:

    18x36 Vinyl In-Ground pool
    25,000-30,000 gallons (estimate, will know more when I can get in and get an average depth)
    DE filter
    Pump info unknown - I'll get that soon!

  11. Back To Top    #11

    Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

    IMO... Wouldn't hurt to vacuum
    Was your pool not covered during winter... If so then I definitely would
    18' x 33' Aqua leader AGP (~19k gal) w/hayward swimpro voyager cartridge filter and 2hp hayward pump.
    8 Gal LQ, hayward heater.

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

    Unfortunately, even after you shock all the algae dead, you are going to have to filter it all out ... which is going to require many many cartridge cleans. So, you can either start doing them now, or later, but you need to be running the pump/filter 24/7 during the shock process anyway.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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    Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    Unfortunately, even after you shock all the algae dead, you are going to have to filter it all out ... which is going to require many many cartridge cleans. So, you can either start doing them now, or later, but you need to be running the pump/filter 24/7 during the shock process anyway.
    This is precisely my quandary. My filter starts at 15psi after I add DE. Within an hour, it is at 25psi and the cartridges are coated in algae. I have already opened the filter and cleaned the cartridges 4 times. I can't be out there at 3am trying to do the same. How do I run 24/7 during the shock process if I can't get more than an hour of consecutive operation before the PSI jumps too high.

    For the other who asked about a cover - there was a cover on the pool and there has not been much debris. The issue is that the pool was drained and covered before we moved in at the end of August, and we've now gathered that this was because he didn't want us to know that the pump was broken. I'm guessing the pool hasn't been operational since, at least, 2010. Because of this, there is a horrid overrun of algae.
    Pool details:

    18x36 Vinyl In-Ground pool
    25,000-30,000 gallons (estimate, will know more when I can get in and get an average depth)
    DE filter
    Pump info unknown - I'll get that soon!

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    Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

    How do I run 24/7 during the shock process if I can't get more than an hour of consecutive operation before the PSI jumps too high.
    Obviously, you can't so you will have to come as close as you can. If DE has a disadvantage it is that it struggles more than sand to clean up a swamp like you have. However, the intervals between backwash will get less frequent the more you can stay with it so just simply do it as often as you can.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

    We pay a price for the great cleaning ability of the DE filters.

    Just remember this headache as incentive to not let the pool ever turn back to a swamp again
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  16. Back To Top    #16

    Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

    Quote Originally Posted by duraleigh
    Obviously, you can't so you will have to come as close as you can. If DE has a disadvantage it is that it struggles more than sand to clean up a swamp like you have. However, the intervals between backwash will get less frequent the more you can stay with it so just simply do it as often as you can.
    And this gets back to how ignorant I am in all of this...

    I've been doing backwashes frequently - but I've actually removed the cartridges and hosed them off 4 times today (a 45 minute process each time). Which is why I'm feeling so overwhelmed. Is this not necessary? Is backwashing all I need to be doing? How often should I be doing the full cleaning?

    As a side note - when I backwash, it is not green. I somewhat expected to see green water as the algae was being eliminated. Was I mistaken?
    Pool details:

    18x36 Vinyl In-Ground pool
    25,000-30,000 gallons (estimate, will know more when I can get in and get an average depth)
    DE filter
    Pump info unknown - I'll get that soon!

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

    You do not need to break the filter down each time (although that sure does clean them better).

    I would just stick to backwashes until it seems like the pressure does not drop as low as it should. Then do a breakdown. I would also break it down towards the end of shocking and your water is pretty clear to just be starting off fresh.

    To backwash you want to switch between "Backwash" and "Rinse/Clean" {Do you have a multi-valve of push/pull} a few times until the backwash stays pretty clear the whole time. Turn off the pump every time your change the valve. Then after you are done with just a backwash, only add about 80% or so of the full DE recharge as there is always some left in the filter.

    You are adding new DE immediately after each cleaning correct? Because if you do not, the filter will clog up with algae even faster.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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    Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    You do not need to break the filter down each time (although that sure does clean them better).

    I would just stick to backwashes until it seems like the pressure does not drop as low as it should. Then do a breakdown. I would also break it down towards the end of shocking and your water is pretty clear to just be starting off fresh.

    To backwash you want to switch between "Backwash" and "Rinse/Clean" {Do you have a multi-valve of push/pull} a few times until the backwash stays pretty clear the whole time. Turn off the pump every time your change the valve. Then after you are done with just a backwash, only add about 80% or so of the full DE recharge as there is always some left in the filter.

    You are adding new DE immediately after each cleaning correct? Because if you do not, the filter will clog up with algae even faster.
    Thanks - I really appreciate everyone's help in all of this! To your questions/comments...

    I do have a multi-port valve, I am adding DE, and I absolutely plan to do a full breakdown of the filter when the system is caught up.

    As for the clarity of the backwash - I added a note about that above. It does not backwash green, it backwashes cloudy but not green. That has surprised me. Does that seem right?
    Pool details:

    18x36 Vinyl In-Ground pool
    25,000-30,000 gallons (estimate, will know more when I can get in and get an average depth)
    DE filter
    Pump info unknown - I'll get that soon!

  19. Back To Top    #19
    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

    That's not really surprising. As you're shocking, you're killing the algae so it won't be green anymore.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

  20. Back To Top    #20

    Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

    Quote Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
    That's not really surprising. As you're shocking, you're killing the algae so it won't be green anymore.
    Sorry I wasn't clear on this - I'm not shocking yet. I'm referring to the backwashing I've been doing while trying to get ph and TA levels in line. I haven't started shocking yet. When I backwash, it shows cloudy in the viewing bottle, but if I open it up when the pressure spikes I find the filter panels coated in algae.
    Pool details:

    18x36 Vinyl In-Ground pool
    25,000-30,000 gallons (estimate, will know more when I can get in and get an average depth)
    DE filter
    Pump info unknown - I'll get that soon!

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