Opening Pool...

kcs03

0
Apr 19, 2012
5
Hi! :wave: I have been trying to open my pool for 2 weeks now. :grrrr: Took 3rd pool sample to dealer yesterday and my readings are:
CYA: 37
Tot. Chlorine: 5
Free Chlorine: 3
pH: 7.5
Tot. Alkalinity 123
Adj. Total Alk. 112
Tot. Hardness 102

This is what I have done so far: Raised alkalinity and pH to normal range. Shocked pool with approx. 8 lbs. of shock over the course of about 5 days and have kept 3" chlorinating tablets in autofeeder with filter running (has been running for 2 weeks straight). Added a a bottle (approx. 28oz. of Algaecide (from Walmart-Aqua Chem) and later added 22 oz. algaecide ("Banish"). At startup, I could only see about 2 steps into the pool. I can now see the 4th (last). When I brush, I can see the brush-head moving along the bottom,-barely.
I added 2 large bottles of Walmart brand bleach (182 oz. bottles - 6%) yesterday, continuing to run filter.
Water is still light green barely seeing to the bottom. Just seems that it isn't making progress. Have continuously ran filter, backwashed it, etc.
Question: Should I flock it, or continue to wait it out?
On a side note, have purchased Borax and Arm & Hammer Baking Soda. Going to try to BBB approach this year.
Thanks in advance for any help!! Ready to do a little of this>>> :party:
 
Welcome to TFP. :wave:

The first thing you need to do is read in Pool School how to properly shock your pool. I'd start by taking all the tablets out and stop using the "shock".

You're going to need lots of bleach.
 
Unfortunately, I didn't read pool school until after using "shock" and chlorine tablets. No more "shock",...will continue with bleach. Just not sure how much to put in at one time.
 
Do yourself a favor and get a good test kit, you'll pay around 80 or so for it but it is needed to properly balance your pool.
I have the Taylor fas-dpd 2006c kit and it's very nice.
I also hear the tft kit is very nice but have not actually used it.
Come to this site often and ask your questions, this place is great. If it were not for this site I would still be using pucks and would be battling the pool again this summer.
Go BBB and save your money for pool toys :)
 
Yes, I have a small OTO test kit...checks Ch, Bromine and pH. Just checked it: Ch way over...kit only goes to 5. Waited 5 minutes to check CC - appears to be the same as when checked Ch at 10 seconds. Definitely going to invest in better kit.
 
Take a sample of pool water and mix it with an equal amount of chlorine free (bottled) water and run the test again. Multiply the result by 2. If it's still high use 2 parts of chlorine free water to one part of pool water and multiply by three.
 
OK...ordered Taylor K2006 test kit....Whoa!! Like!!
My readings today:
CYA: 30
pH: 7.4
Alkalinity: 130
FC: 0.5
CC: 0.5
Calcium Hardness: 50 ppm
Water is no longer green, but a little cloudy...all debris has been removed and I can see the bottom. :)
I know I need to shock it...but a little undecided as to type of Chlorine to use. Was planning on using the BBB method.
I have the autofeeder,...so 3" chlorine tablets are more convenient. Opinions please. A little confused as to type of chlorine to use....Sodium Hypochlorite, TriChlor, etc. Had a problem with copper in water early on....but added metal magic toreduce it.
 
kcs03 said:
Opinions please. A little confused as to type of chlorine to use....Sodium Hypochlorite, TriChlor, etc.

Your CYA and CH are low enough that you can use whatever you want right now. Just understand what you put in the pool will affect those levels, and adjust when you reach a target.

Example:

Since CH is low, you can use cal-hypo for awhile before the CH reading gets unmanageable (assuming your AGP has a vinyl liner). You can also use dichlor or trichlor (powder or pucks) for a little while before your CYA gets out of hand.

That being said, the majority of users on this forum will tell you to stick to plain old liquid chlorine. If you need something in your pool, put it in. Skip the byproducts.
 

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