Cloudy, milky looking water?

[MNPoolDreamer]

My post was merged before...but let's start over here.
This may all just be a lack of pop too!

Fc 10.5
Cc .5
Tc 11
Ph 7.5 (was down to 7.2 after adding acid)
TA 250 (down from 280 after adding acid, aerate yesterday)
Ch 350 (down from 380. I added metal out yesterday because we have iron in our water...maybe it took some ch too?)
CYA 50 (I'm surprised since it was only 45 at close and we added almost 2000 gallons of fill water)

The water is still milky...I pass the oclt. I did add bleach yesterday...maybe that was wrong, but I knew it was going to rain over night and I didn't want to take chances. Pump runs continuously. Psi is going up so something is coming out, but I thought I'd see some improvement in 24 hours.

What I've added...not part of Bbb
Dry acid 1 lb to reduce TA
Metal out product from bio guard
Scale inhibitor - bbb would say I don't need it, but we did have scaling last year and it happened fast!

We tried vacuuming, some junk like leaves in the bottom, why wouldn't that be causing chlorine usage? It is so milky we can't even tell if we are vacuuming the bottom or not!

Any direction I should go or just wait it out?

Eta:cya

 

[JasonLion]

There are two main possibilities, and many many less likely ones. The two most obvious possibilities are dead algae and calcium clouding. If you are just recovering from having algae, then that would be the obvious possibility. If there haven't been any signs of algae, and FC has not dropped to zero recently, then the next most likely possibility is calcium clouding.

Calcium can crystalize out of the water and form exceedingly small crystals that can't be filtered out. Your calcium saturation is very high, close to the conditions where calcium scaling can happen. Those same conditions can also cause the calcium to form tiny crystals that stay in the water. The solution to this is to get the CSI below zero. If your problem is calcium clouding, it will go away after several hours to a day with CSI negative. The fastest way to get CSI negative is to continue lowering TA, just as you are already doing.

Unfortunately, there are a number of other things which can cause milky water, hundreds of possibilities actually. Hopefully you have one of the more obvious ones.

By the by, muriatic acid is significantly less expensive than dry acid. It is a little bit more difficult to handle, but not too bad.

 

[MNPoolDreamer]

Thanks for the information. When I was at the pool store (merely for the metal stuff) the know it all was telling me no way could it be calcium but my instinct is telling me it could be calcium.

When I did the ch test, the final product actually looked like suspended blue particles, so it was binding to something more solid. Unless it always does that and I never look that close.

We have a gallon of acid left. Gonna have hubby dig out the respirator since the fumes are tough to handle and tackle the TA today. Hopefully that does it!