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Thread: Am I On The Right Track?

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    lovemy3azboys's Avatar
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    Am I On The Right Track?

    My pool was losing chlorine & I confirmed it using the overnight test. I used the Pool Calculator & added 6.5 bottles of 10% chlorine.
    Question is how long should I run the filter? It's been running 2.5 hrs now...
    Thanks in advance
    25,000 gallon plaster dive pool, Eclipse sand filter, 1 HP Centurion pump, Baracuda G3, TF-100 Test Kit

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    24/7 until you are done with the shocking process ... with the frequent short stops to backwash of course.

    Note the you should backwash when the pressure rises 20-25% of your normal "clean" pressure.

    EDIT: Would not hurt to post up your full tested levels to make sure everything is on track.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    We are the new owners of a used pool, pool was greenish in the Fall but looked better but still cloudy when we took over last month. Had thought we would drain & refill but decided to work with it this year.

    As of 3/30 these are my test results:

    CC 1.5 (FC was 4 at the time)
    PH 7.5
    T/A 120-130
    CYA 80 but had been 90 after a miscalculation, we did a lot of backwash/refilling to get down to 80 which is where it is now

    FC
    I did 2 overnight tests.
    One on Mon 4/02 went from 1.5 ppm to 1.0 ppm Tues morning. Tues morning 4/03 I added 1 & 3/4 bottles of 128 oz 10% chlorine.
    Did 2nd test Tues night, beginning was 8.5 ppm, Wed morning was down to 3.5 ppm. Decided I needed to shock

    We did lots of backwashing, at first to clean out the filter & get the Baracuda running again then a lot more to get the CYA down to 80.

    Before we ever backwashed the filter was at about 25 psi. After backwash it went down to about 13 psi & has been running about 14 - 15 psi which is where it was this morning. It's now at 20. I'll go backwash it now...

    Thanks in advance for keeping me out of Leslies, LOL...
    25,000 gallon plaster dive pool, Eclipse sand filter, 1 HP Centurion pump, Baracuda G3, TF-100 Test Kit

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    Did you do a CH test? That can be pretty important for us due to the evaporation and if it gets too out of hand can result in scaling.

    If your clean pressure is ~13psi, then your filter and circulation will work best if you backwash when it reaches about 16psi ... that may be pretty often at the beginning, but should take longer the more **** you get out of the pool.

    Given that you CYA is 80ppm, are you targeting a shock FC level of 31ppm? You want to keep the FC level at or above 31 as consistently as you can until you pass the 3 shocking tests.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    Did you do a CH test? That can be pretty important for us due to the evaporation and if it gets too out of hand can result in scaling.

    If your clean pressure is ~13psi, then your filter and circulation will work best if you backwash when it reaches about 16psi ... that may be pretty often at the beginning, but should take longer the more **** you get out of the pool.

    Given that you CYA is 80ppm, are you targeting a shock FC level of 31ppm? You want to keep the FC level at or above 31 as consistently as you can until you pass the 3 shocking tests.
    When I did the CH test on 3/29 I'm not sure I did the test correctly. Per the FT 100 test I filled to the 25 ml mark, added 20 drops of R-10, mixed, then 5 drops of R-11, mixed. Now it got tricky. It was pinkish/red & I added R-12 one drop at a time & mixed but it never did turn "blue" I stopped at 150 drops. Should I have stopped at "clear"? Can I test for that now during the shocking process?

    I used the "Pool Calculator" which suggested a FC Shock Level of 21. I added 6.7 bottles of 128 oz. I miscalculated the volume of my gallons(the site had it defaulted to 96 oz bottles) so I was shooting for 21 ppm but it should when I tested about an hour ago I stopped adding regent at 20 ppm & the water was still very red.

    Should I be reaching down to my upper arm to test the shock water?
    Will it be an accurate reading at this point having been added only 4 hours ago?
    I recalculated the Pool Calculator. Should I add the additional 1.5 bottles now?
    Just so I understand. I need to keep the FC above 31 for at least 3 nights? Inorder to do the overnight test or is there a different test I'm missing?

    Thanks again...
    25,000 gallon plaster dive pool, Eclipse sand filter, 1 HP Centurion pump, Baracuda G3, TF-100 Test Kit

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    Hmmm ... I see what you are saying about the 21ppm recommendation on the pool calculator. I got the 31ppm from the chlorine/cya chart in Pool School ... I am surprise that there is that much of a difference. I suppose 21 should be fine though.

    Not sure what to say about your CH test. Have you tried just testing your tap water to see where you are starting from (could be good as a reference anyways).

    You should always try to get you water sample a way below the surface. The top layer can be affected by the sun.

    After adding chlorine, you can get a good test result after about an hour of circulation.

    The 3 tests for ending your shock process are shown in the Pool School article:
    pool-school/shocking_your_pool
    1. CC is 0.5 or lower;
    2. An overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less;
    3. And the water is clear.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    Hmmm ... I see what you are saying about the 21ppm recommendation on the pool calculator. I got the 31ppm from the chlorine/cya chart in Pool School ... I am surprise that there is that much of a difference. I suppose 21 should be fine though.
    See http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...rt-t36301.html

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    Not sure what to say about your CH test. Have you tried just testing your tap water to see where you are starting from (could be good as a reference anyways).
    If your tap water (not run through a softener) is not too high, try the test again with these alternate directions from Extended Test Kit Directions:
    If you expect that your CH level is extremely high, you can do the test so that each drop is 25, instead of 10, to speed up the process and save on reagent usage. Use 10 ml of pool water, 10 drops of R-0010, 3 drops of R-0011L, and multiply the number of drops of R-0012 by 25 to get your CH level.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    Hmmm ... I see what you are saying about the 21ppm recommendation on the pool calculator. I got the 31ppm from the chlorine/cya chart in Pool School ... I am surprise that there is that much of a difference. I suppose 21 should be fine though.

    Not sure what to say about your CH test. Have you tried just testing your tap water to see where you are starting from (could be good as a reference anyways).

    You should always try to get you water sample a way below the surface. The top layer can be affected by the sun.

    After adding chlorine, you can get a good test result after about an hour of circulation.

    The 3 tests for ending your shock process are shown in the Pool School article:
    pool-school/shocking_your_pool
    1. CC is 0.5 or lower;
    2. An overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less;
    3. And the water is clear.

    I just found & have been reading the post on turing your pool from a swamp, or something like that. Very useful...

    I dipped down & got water, tested & it's at 30 pm, that's after 4 hours & brushing so I dont think I need to add any more chlorine.

    I have backwashed & will again once it hits 16 psi.

    Water is clear & if it werent for this forum I'd think all was fine

    I will continue to backwash as needed, brush the pool(I have all the nets & brushes soaking in the pool as wll) & test the water at sunset & again before sunrise. I will continue to watch the psi & backwash as needed for the next week or two.

    When should I expect the FC to drop to "normal" levels & with my CYA so high what is a normal & safe level to swim in. It will be in the high 90's here by Sunday
    25,000 gallon plaster dive pool, Eclipse sand filter, 1 HP Centurion pump, Baracuda G3, TF-100 Test Kit

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    For 80 CYA, your normal FC levels are between 6 and 11 ... always keep it above 6. You are safe to swim up to shock levels ... so I would say up to about FC 20ppm is fine to swim.

    I would continue as you have planned ... and keep the FC above 21ppm until passing the 3 tests ... hopefully you will pass the OCLT tonight and then can let the FC drop below 20ppm to swim this weekend.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    Hmmm ... I see what you are saying about the 21ppm recommendation on the pool calculator. I got the 31ppm from the chlorine/cya chart in Pool School ... I am surprise that there is that much of a difference. I suppose 21 should be fine though.
    See http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...rt-t36301.html

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    Not sure what to say about your CH test. Have you tried just testing your tap water to see where you are starting from (could be good as a reference anyways).
    If your tap water (not run through a softener) is not too high, try the test again with these alternate directions from Extended Test Kit Directions:
    If you expect that your CH level is extremely high, you can do the test so that each drop is 25, instead of 10, to speed up the process and save on reagent usage. Use 10 ml of pool water, 10 drops of R-0010, 3 drops of R-0011L, and multiply the number of drops of R-0012 by 25 to get your CH level.
    I tried my tap water & after I put in the 5 drops it was completely clear. I did the method recommended & stopped at 20 drops(=500) & it was still completly clear & not blue at all.
    I tested my pool water again for CH & it was only slightly pink tinted. Again I tried to turn it "blue" but no "blue".

    Also I have 2 bottle of R-11L, one leaked in transit so they sent me a new one. One of them is very dark purple & cloudy & the other is a dark red & less cloudy. I used the less cloudy red one this last time.

    So with the test coming out only slightly pinkish should that mean my CH is good. I'm just not seeing "blue"
    25,000 gallon plaster dive pool, Eclipse sand filter, 1 HP Centurion pump, Baracuda G3, TF-100 Test Kit

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    Well, I am still stumped on the CH test ... not sure what clear means. It is not "good" to have a CH of 0 (if this is what your tests mean) for a plaster pool. You want the CH to be 250-350 so that your plaster is not damaged if your CSI becomes too negative.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    Well, I am still stumped on the CH test ... not sure what clear means. It is not "good" to have a CH of 0 (if this is what your tests mean) for a plaster pool. You want the CH to be 250-350 so that your plaster is not damaged if your CSI becomes too negative.
    When I say clear I mean the water looks clear as drinking water, without any blue tint.

    When I start the test & add the R-10 it's clear, when I add the R-11L & mix it's slightly pinkish, when I add the R-12 it goes back to clear as it was strait from the pool.

    I'm beginning to suspect that one or more of these R-10/R-11L/R-12 CH regents are bad...

    What is CSI?
    25,000 gallon plaster dive pool, Eclipse sand filter, 1 HP Centurion pump, Baracuda G3, TF-100 Test Kit

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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    CSI is Calcite Saturation Index ... It is an output of the poolcalculator.com (you should be using this)

    If it gets < -0.6 you can damage the plaster (pulls calcium out of the walls). If it gets > 0.6 the calcium can come out of the water and cause scaling on the walls.

    The goal of FC (and CYA) is controlling algae
    The goal of pH, CH (and TA) is controlling CSI (in my simple mind).
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    3az,

    Check your PM's

    it'll say "1 new message" in the upper left corner of your screen.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    Help me understand when I know the shock process is complete.

    Yesterday I added the chlorine at 10:30 am, at 3 pm it was 29-30 pm, I continued to filter & backwash. At 8 pm it was down to 18.5ppm. This morning it was only 12.5 ppm. Should the chlorine level hold for the overnight test even at such high levels? My pool is very sparkling clear & my filter only needed to be backwashed once but I did do it again just before bedtime. Help me understand
    25,000 gallon plaster dive pool, Eclipse sand filter, 1 HP Centurion pump, Baracuda G3, TF-100 Test Kit

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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    Quote Originally Posted by lovemy3azboys
    Help me understand when I know the shock process is complete.

    Yesterday I added the chlorine at 10:30 am, at 3 pm it was 29-30 pm, I continued to filter & backwash. At 8 pm it was down to 18.5ppm. This morning it was only 12.5 ppm. Should the chlorine level hold for the overnight test even at such high levels? My pool is very sparkling clear & my filter only needed to be backwashed once but I did do it again just before bedtime. Help me understand
    Yes if you were at 18.5 ppm after the sun was off the pool, you should have dropped no more than to 17.5 ppm in the morning before the sun hit the pool. What are you getting for CC levels? What criteria are you using to determine when to backwash? See my sig for the three criteria indicating when the shocking process is complete.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    lovemy3azboys's Avatar
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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    Quote Originally Posted by lovemy3azboys
    Help me understand when I know the shock process is complete.

    Yesterday I added the chlorine at 10:30 am, at 3 pm it was 29-30 pm, I continued to filter & backwash. At 8 pm it was down to 18.5ppm. This morning it was only 12.5 ppm. Should the chlorine level hold for the overnight test even at such high levels? My pool is very sparkling clear & my filter only needed to be backwashed once but I did do it again just before bedtime. Help me understand
    Yes if you were at 18.5 ppm after the sun was off the pool, you should have dropped no more than to 17.5 ppm in the morning before the sun hit the pool. What are you getting for CC levels? What criteria are you using to determine when to backwash? See my sig for the three criteria indicating when the shocking process is complete.

    My CC is 0.5
    I backwash at 15 but have only done that twice.
    Thank you for answering my question on the chlorine loss. I wasnt sure if it could hold that high overnight.
    I'll add more chlorine now to bring it back up to 21-31.
    Should I hold it around shock level until sunset then do the overnight test again?
    25,000 gallon plaster dive pool, Eclipse sand filter, 1 HP Centurion pump, Baracuda G3, TF-100 Test Kit

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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    Quote Originally Posted by lovemy3azboys
    Should I hold it around shock level until sunset then do the overnight test again?
    I get 21 ppm FC shock level for you 80 ppm cya from poolcalculator. It is important that you do not go below that level 24/7 until you have meet the three criteria (in my sig). So yes, get far enough above 21 ppm FC so that it will be above that when you can add you next dose of chlorine and continue that cycle. Your OCLT of 6 ppm is still quite a bit, so even though your water looks great, there are still some organisms in there somewhere to be murdered
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    lovemy3azboys's Avatar
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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    Quote Originally Posted by lovemy3azboys
    Should I hold it around shock level until sunset then do the overnight test again?
    I get 21 ppm FC shock level for you 80 ppm cya from poolcalculator. It is important that you do not go below that level 24/7 until you have meet the three criteria (in my sig). So yes, get far enough above 21 ppm FC so that it will be above that when you can add you next dose of chlorine and continue that cycle. Your OCLT of 6 ppm is still quite a bit, so even though your water looks great, there are still some organisms in there somewhere to be murdered
    Excellent, will do & will keep results posted...

    Thank you
    25,000 gallon plaster dive pool, Eclipse sand filter, 1 HP Centurion pump, Baracuda G3, TF-100 Test Kit

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    Re: Shocking Pool, How Long to run Filter?

    I've been attempting to shock my pool since Thursday but am failing the OCLT, goes from 25 ppm to 18 ppm overnight, my CYA was 80 at the start of this. Tonight I will raise my FC to around 30 ppm so that it doesn't dip below shock level.
    I was reading about mustard algae & remembered that I have a few loose tiles(this is an older pool we just acquired). I decided to lift them up & have a look. I found what appears to be tree roots of some kind. Please look at these photos & tell me what you think.

    I also wanted to add that I had some greenish yellow growth on the wall next to the steps in the deep end, it looked like it was swept from the steps onto the wall by the water current. I have since swept this away. Should I worry this may be Mustard Algae?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    25,000 gallon plaster dive pool, Eclipse sand filter, 1 HP Centurion pump, Baracuda G3, TF-100 Test Kit

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