Extreme disappointment!!!

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vangoghinarles

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Aug 9, 2011
23
Salisbury, NC
Opened the pool to cloudy water - but didn't see any algae. Added water from the well, started the filter running and it started clearing up a bit. Took a sample of water to pool store to check for iron/metals in the water, and got the 'all clear'....

I immediately came home and added Stabilizer first (per the pool store) and then the Chlorine (per the pool calculator). Immediately after adding chlorine, the water started turning green .... again .... just like last year. Then after green, came the brown....looks like a swamp now. My grandson is so disappointed!

I have a new Tf100 test kit and ph is good as well as chlorine level. I'm really not sure where to go from here... Last year when I had the 'coffee pool' I kept cleaning the filter, overfilling it so I could vacuum to waste, and shocking. Should I use dichlor to shock, or stick with chlorine?

I really do not know what to do next. What tests should I take to get more info so you could better direct me?

Thank you for your assistance, as always!
Sharon in NC
 
Yuo have iron in the well water. Go to walmart or some place that sells HTH metal treatment and follow the instructions. That will sequester the metal and clear the water.
In my experience, pool store tests for metals dont measure metal content lower than 1-2 ppm. Even iron at 0.5 ppm can turn the water when you add chlorine.
 
Since you have your own test ... post up ALL the test numbers please so we can get the full picture.

Since you have presumably added CYA to go from ??? to ??? (how was the does calculated ... tell us what you have put in), using the dichlor would be adding even more CYA which would be a bad thing.

Stick with the bleach.
 
A question for the gallery, since vangoghinarles have had luck filtering it out in the past, why not give that a try before using a sequesterant or getting new water? Filtering happens to work for me and my high iron well water. It takes about a week, but then I am tint free. Mine is a tint and not opaque coffee though...
 
Filtering out iron is unpredictable but if it works then, by all means, try it before using sequestrant.

I have an issue with sequestrant because it's an ongoing expense and I'm all for solving the problem than having to add something regularly to mask it. Some people have no choice and that's understandable.
 
Bama Rambler said:
I have an issue with sequestrant because it's an ongoing expense and I'm all for solving the problem than having to add something regularly to mask it. Some people have no choice and that's understandable.
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Hear, hear...and that stuff is pricy.
 
How would you filter it unless you get it to percipitate out? You can try to do that, but it may or may not work and end up with a bigger mess. I've on occasion got a bit of iron to come out as a precipitate, but it's not very reliable.
A sequesterant is the only way i know of to reliably take care of the problem, but its still there in solution. The HTH product is a phosphonic acid product that works the best. I'ts an expense, but not overly so. Its the best you can do unless you add iron free water.

Edit: you guys beat me to the post.

But, i dont think its that expensive. A quart cost me about 9 bucks and, after the initial dose, i only use another quart every month or so.
 
bk406 said:
How would you filter it unless you get it to percipitate out? You can try to do that, but it may or may not work and end up with a bigger mess. I've on occasion got a bit of iron to come out as a precipitate, but it's not very reliable.
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My uneducated theory for my case is that it is precipitated enough but still in suspension that eventually it gets filtered out? If this opening runs like last springs opening, I top off my pool with the well water which looks clear and then when I add chlorine I will quickly see a tan/brown tint show up in the water. Then, over the next few days of running 24/7 it will lessen until the tint is perceivably gone. At that point when I backflush my sand filter, the water is dark brown and takes a few minutes to clear.

bk406 said:
But, i dont think its that expensive. A quart cost me about 9 bucks and, after the initial dose, i only use another quart every month or so.
Click to expand...
I agree that is not too expensive. The larger issue seems to be the constant potential for staining with the metals still in the water although temporarily sequestered.
 

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No numbers today, had torrential rain yesterday evening. Will get them this afternoon as long as the thunderstorms hold off! One good thing, the filter is continuing to run, and it looked this morning like the color was changing a bit back to green instead of being so brown.
 
I hope you have some of the numbers in the wrong place.
If your FC is 1 and your CC is 1 then your TC would be 2. However if you got the CC & TC number switched that's much better. If you have a FC of 1 and a CC of 0 then your TC would be 1.

Depending on that, everything else is ok except TA, but don't worry too much about it, and just keep adjusting the pH down when it gets up and it'll come down with it.
 
+1 on what Bama said.

With a CYA of 50 now, you need to maintain you FC level up above 20ppm until you pass the 3 tests listed in Bama's signature. This will likely require you to test and add bleach every hour at the start and you should be able to extend the time between tests as the FC stops dropping so rapidly due to the algae.
 
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