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Thread: Extreme disappointment!!!

  1. Back To Top    #1

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    Extreme disappointment!!!

    Opened the pool to cloudy water - but didn't see any algae. Added water from the well, started the filter running and it started clearing up a bit. Took a sample of water to pool store to check for iron/metals in the water, and got the 'all clear'....

    I immediately came home and added Stabilizer first (per the pool store) and then the Chlorine (per the pool calculator). Immediately after adding chlorine, the water started turning green .... again .... just like last year. Then after green, came the brown....looks like a swamp now. My grandson is so disappointed!

    I have a new Tf100 test kit and ph is good as well as chlorine level. I'm really not sure where to go from here... Last year when I had the 'coffee pool' I kept cleaning the filter, overfilling it so I could vacuum to waste, and shocking. Should I use dichlor to shock, or stick with chlorine?

    I really do not know what to do next. What tests should I take to get more info so you could better direct me?

    Thank you for your assistance, as always!
    Sharon in NC
    Above ground pool
    13,500 gallons
    Pentair 0185 125cartridge filter
    24' round, 48" deep AG pool, 2 spd. 2.5 hp Waterway pump

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    Re: Extreme disappointment!!!

    Yuo have iron in the well water. Go to walmart or some place that sells HTH metal treatment and follow the instructions. That will sequester the metal and clear the water.
    In my experience, pool store tests for metals dont measure metal content lower than 1-2 ppm. Even iron at 0.5 ppm can turn the water when you add chlorine.
    14,000 gallon IG, Vinyl. Hayward 3/4 hp superpump, Penatair IC40 SWCG, Pentair automation, Hayward sand filter, Aqua Comfort heat pump, Hayward 400k Lo-Nox LP heater.

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Extreme disappointment!!!

    Since you have your own test ... post up ALL the test numbers please so we can get the full picture.

    Since you have presumably added CYA to go from ??? to ??? (how was the does calculated ... tell us what you have put in), using the dichlor would be adding even more CYA which would be a bad thing.

    Stick with the bleach.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: Extreme disappointment!!!

    I agree with BK, it's got to be iron. Sequestrant or new metal free water is the only thing that will clear it up.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Extreme disappointment!!!

    A question for the gallery, since vangoghinarles have had luck filtering it out in the past, why not give that a try before using a sequesterant or getting new water? Filtering happens to work for me and my high iron well water. It takes about a week, but then I am tint free. Mine is a tint and not opaque coffee though...
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: Extreme disappointment!!!

    Filtering out iron is unpredictable but if it works then, by all means, try it before using sequestrant.

    I have an issue with sequestrant because it's an ongoing expense and I'm all for solving the problem than having to add something regularly to mask it. Some people have no choice and that's understandable.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Extreme disappointment!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
    I have an issue with sequestrant because it's an ongoing expense and I'm all for solving the problem than having to add something regularly to mask it. Some people have no choice and that's understandable.
    Hear, hear...and that stuff is pricy.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Extreme disappointment!!!

    How would you filter it unless you get it to percipitate out? You can try to do that, but it may or may not work and end up with a bigger mess. I've on occasion got a bit of iron to come out as a precipitate, but it's not very reliable.
    A sequesterant is the only way i know of to reliably take care of the problem, but its still there in solution. The HTH product is a phosphonic acid product that works the best. I'ts an expense, but not overly so. Its the best you can do unless you add iron free water.

    Edit: you guys beat me to the post.

    But, i dont think its that expensive. A quart cost me about 9 bucks and, after the initial dose, i only use another quart every month or so.
    14,000 gallon IG, Vinyl. Hayward 3/4 hp superpump, Penatair IC40 SWCG, Pentair automation, Hayward sand filter, Aqua Comfort heat pump, Hayward 400k Lo-Nox LP heater.

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Extreme disappointment!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by bk406
    How would you filter it unless you get it to percipitate out? You can try to do that, but it may or may not work and end up with a bigger mess. I've on occasion got a bit of iron to come out as a precipitate, but it's not very reliable.
    My uneducated theory for my case is that it is precipitated enough but still in suspension that eventually it gets filtered out? If this opening runs like last springs opening, I top off my pool with the well water which looks clear and then when I add chlorine I will quickly see a tan/brown tint show up in the water. Then, over the next few days of running 24/7 it will lessen until the tint is perceivably gone. At that point when I backflush my sand filter, the water is dark brown and takes a few minutes to clear.

    Quote Originally Posted by bk406
    But, i dont think its that expensive. A quart cost me about 9 bucks and, after the initial dose, i only use another quart every month or so.
    I agree that is not too expensive. The larger issue seems to be the constant potential for staining with the metals still in the water although temporarily sequestered.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  10. Back To Top    #10

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    Re: Extreme disappointment!!!

    Thanks everyone for weighing in. Will have numbers in the morning!
    Above ground pool
    13,500 gallons
    Pentair 0185 125cartridge filter
    24' round, 48" deep AG pool, 2 spd. 2.5 hp Waterway pump

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    Re: Extreme disappointment!!!

    No numbers today, had torrential rain yesterday evening. Will get them this afternoon as long as the thunderstorms hold off! One good thing, the filter is continuing to run, and it looked this morning like the color was changing a bit back to green instead of being so brown.
    Above ground pool
    13,500 gallons
    Pentair 0185 125cartridge filter
    24' round, 48" deep AG pool, 2 spd. 2.5 hp Waterway pump

  12. Back To Top    #12

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    Re: Extreme disappointment!!!

    Okay, yesterday at sunset, this is what I got.
    Chlorine - the lowest level on the TF100 test kit
    pH 7.5
    FC 1.0
    TC 0
    CC 1.0
    TA 200
    CH 400
    CYA 50

    Should I plug these into the Pool Calculator or is there something more extreme I need to do?
    Above ground pool
    13,500 gallons
    Pentair 0185 125cartridge filter
    24' round, 48" deep AG pool, 2 spd. 2.5 hp Waterway pump

  13. Back To Top    #13
    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: Extreme disappointment!!!

    I hope you have some of the numbers in the wrong place.
    If your FC is 1 and your CC is 1 then your TC would be 2. However if you got the CC & TC number switched that's much better. If you have a FC of 1 and a CC of 0 then your TC would be 1.

    Depending on that, everything else is ok except TA, but don't worry too much about it, and just keep adjusting the pH down when it gets up and it'll come down with it.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

  14. Back To Top    #14

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    Re: Extreme disappointment!!!

    So.... I checked and have FC 1 and CC 1 so I get that TC would be 2. With these numbers, and the pool still green, do you suggest dumping enough chlorine to get to shock level?
    Above ground pool
    13,500 gallons
    Pentair 0185 125cartridge filter
    24' round, 48" deep AG pool, 2 spd. 2.5 hp Waterway pump

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: Extreme disappointment!!!

    Not only that, but test and add hourly to get it back to shock level until you've passed the OCLT.

    Once you've passed the OCLT we'll work on anything else that needs it.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Extreme disappointment!!!

    +1 on what Bama said.

    With a CYA of 50 now, you need to maintain you FC level up above 20ppm until you pass the 3 tests listed in Bama's signature. This will likely require you to test and add bleach every hour at the start and you should be able to extend the time between tests as the FC stops dropping so rapidly due to the algae.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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