help with pump rebuild!

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flyweed

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Aug 3, 2009
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SW Wisconsin
Hi all

I am rebuilding my Hayward Power Flo LX pump (model SP1580X15) and just wondering how to remove the pump from the motor? I ordered an all new ring and gasket kit for it, and a new impellor as well.

Thanks for any help.

Dan
 
Hey Dan, here is am image of the Hayward Power Flo LX. You will have to remove the housing bolts (part #5 in diagram). I think there are 8 of them.

Just out of curiosity, what issues were you having with your pump?
 

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well I bought it used, so I don't know the history on it..I've been running it "as is" for the last 2 years...It's hard to "get started" in the spring...I have to dump water into the strainer multiple times before the pump will prime and start sucking water in from the pool....and then as long as I keep it running 24/7 it will run just fine..if I shut it down..it'll lose the prime.....or if I connect my long hose with brush/vacuum head to it, it'll usually loose it's prime too, and this is WITH the hose full of water, which I submerge into the pool first to get out all of the air.

I have checked all of my plumbing from and back to the pool (as the pump and filter) are located 20 ft away, and I have NO leaks that I can find either visually, or with warm soapy water. So I can only assume it's something going bad in the pump itself.

Dan
 
Be sure to check the o-ring between the strainer and the housing cover. Also check the housing o-ring along with anything else on the suction side of the pump and the suction plumbing. You can have a pretty good air leak without having a water leak.

It's odd to have a priming issue with an above ground pool. Your equipment must be above the water level.
 
O ring for the strainer cover is brand new (and lubed).....I'd say the pool pump and filter are sitting right AT water level...definitely not above water level and not below it either. Unless we are talking about the pumps INTAKE into the strainer basket..that is definitely BELOW the pools skimmer basket by about 1 foot.
 
You said
I have to dump water into the strainer multiple times before the pump will prime and start sucking water in from the pool
Click to expand...
If the inlet of the pump is below the water line then it should flood with water as soon as you open the strainer basket lid. Does it not do that?
can you post a pic of the equipment?
 
flyingvranch..I am most definitely replacing that part as well....figure since I have it pulled apart, I am replacing ALL of the internals, o rings, gaskets, impellor, etc.

Bama Rambler...You know.....you're right..it SHOULD! but it doesn't SO my pump must be above the pool water level.

So....do you think it would be BETTER if I moved the pool pump directly behind the pool and at it's base..so there would be only maybe 5 ft of suction line...and then it would be pushing water 20ft away to the sand filter, heater and SWG??

I'll snap some pics yet before it gets dark.

Dan
 
yeah...after looking at it...I've been running my pool now for going on 2 years with it like this...and it looks like the pump is sitting almost exactly at the water line when the pool is full.

Here are a couple photos..sorry they aren't the best, I took them with my phone.

pool1.jpg


The yellow lines represent the intake and return lines that are buried underground
pool2-1.jpg
 

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Grade elevations are so deceiving to the eye. It does look like your pump is above the water level a little. That would certainly cause that particular pump to have problems priming.

I don't discount a leak somewhere but if it was below the water line it would immediately re-prime when you started it back up.

You could either move the pump to below the water line (best scenario) or buy a pump designed to lift water a little.
 
Hi again....OK, I have successfully replaced all the internal parts, O rings and seals of the pump...but I have one question, as I am NOT sure if I got the shaft seal assembly put together correctly..Actually, I know I got the "spring assembly installed correctly on the impeller, as the directions were well written, and said that the black ceramic piece faces AWAY from the impeller...Simple enough! But the second "white" ceramic piece surrounded by a black rubber ring...just says insert into rear housing "facing out"....well that could mean facing OUT the back of the housing, or facing out towards me/towards the front...so that's the way I installed it, as it seemed ceramic on ceramic would spin more easily than the ceramic on rubber...so that's the way I installed it.. plus it seems that the black rubber ring would "seal" the rear pump housing.

So I hope I got it right. Any thoughts???

Dan
 
awesome...I got it together right then! Now I just gotta get some warmer weather to get the pump installed near the pool and BELOW the water line, and I think my problems will be solved.

I guess I do have one more question...I have 1 1/2" barbed fittings on both the intake and outlet of the pump....and I have that heavy duty, white "spa" hose that connects to the pool skimmer...should I used clamps on this...or should I actually use a solvent of some sort and "weld" the tubing onto the barbed fittings????? Any thoughts??
 

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