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Thread: Could use a little help

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Could use a little help

    Greetings from a new (one week today) tubber!

    We have a 5 person 470 gallon hot tub with an ozonator.

    I have been using the test strips and no matter what I do I can't get my Free Chlorine level to register. I tested last night after we got out - (2 bathers, but we are heavy users, maybe total of 3 person hours a night) and found that my overall chlorine (CF) I think it is - is high, and no FC showed up so I put in 2 TSP of the non-chlorine shock that came with the tub, I ran the low jet for 15 minutes then put the cover on and went to bed. I also noticed a white water line while I was in it yesterday - I used a washcloth (that I didn't run through a rinse cycle first D'oh! - and wiped the surface down.)

    I have read the main topics here - and maybe need to read them again because I don't really understand them yet. I ordered and got a Taylor drip test kit yesterday, I read the booklet that came with that - but I'm still a little confused and have not yet used it. I plan to this weekend when I can take my time and do it right.

    Is there a thread here that talks about how to use a Taylor kit? I've never owned a spa, and don't know anyone who currently owns a spa except for our neighbors and they have to my knowledge never changed the water - I've never seen them test and they don't seem to use it.

    So far, the water appears clear, and feels good - but we are getting some foam, not bad - but I don't like it. I used a little bit of foam remover but that does not seem to have helped.

    The chemicals I have are the starter kit - they include:
    Non-Chlorine Shock
    Chlorine granuals

    Is there anything else that I should get or need?

    I have read that ozonators use up chlorine - but our dealer told us that would help us to use less chlorine and not more.

    My husband has a skin condition associated with Lupus, and has gotten a tub rash once before when we used a tub in a cabin we rented. I am in charge of the water, he only agreed to the Hot Tub if I agreed to manage it - and want to make sure I do this right.

    Any help would be much appreciated!

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    SouthWest Alabama

    Re: Could use a little help

    You'll get some help soon, just hang on for a little while.

    Which model test kit did you get?

    You're doing the best thing you can do and that's reading everything you can on here.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

  3. Back To Top    #3
    linen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Twin Cities, MN

    Re: Could use a little help

    I am assuming you have read this post?
    It covers a lot of what you need to know to do chlorine in a hot tub.

    Also, take a look at this thread:

    The mps is not a replacement for chlorine as it is not a sanitizer. Have you used the dichlor (a form of chlorine) yet?

    Edit: I am assuming the non-chlorine "shock" is mps...from poolschool:
    Potassium Monopersulfate
    Potassium Peroxymonosulfate

    A non chlorine oxidizer or 'shock'. It is acidic and will cause lower pH and TA. It adds sulfates to the water. Will not break down CC but helps prevent it from forming when used on a regular basis. It will interfere with TC and CC tests unless special reagents are used in testing since it WILL test as CC! A good choice to use in indoor pools that are not exposed to sunlight but really has no advantage in an outdoor pool. It is only an oxidizer and NOT a sanitizer and should not be used as such.
    Let us know if the label says something like that.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    San Rafael, CA USA

    Re: Could use a little help

    Test strips can bleach out at high chlorine levels so you should use the Taylor kit to confirm whether or not you've got chlorine. If you got the TF-100, then that comes with an OTO chlorine test kit (in addition to the FAS-DPD drop-based chlorine test) that can quickly check to see if there is any chlorine. If you got the Taylor K-2006, then you just use the FAS-DPD drop-based chlorine test. You can read Extended Test Kit Instructions for more assistance with your tests.

    If you let the chlorine level get to zero for too long, then bacteria can grow and form biofilm which sounds like what you might have if the tub walls feel slimy. If it's been a while since your last water change, then I would decontaminate the tub by super-chlorinating and by using Spa System Flush. Then follow the Dichlor-then-bleach instructions and make sure to not let the chlorine drop too low. With an ozonator, it will take more chlorine to maintain the Free Chlorine (FC) level in your tub if you are not using it regularly. Ozonators help reduce the amount of chlorine you need only if you use the tub a lot, such as every day or two. If you know that you aren't going to be using the tub more than once or twice a week, you might consider disconnecting the ozonator.

    You should not be using non-chlorine shock (MPS) unless you have a Nature2 system. MPS is expensive, is not a sanitizer (unless used with the silver ions from Nature2), and does not keep water cleaner than chlorine.

    If you decontaminate your tub and disconnect your ozonator, then your 24-hour chlorine loss rate should be at around 25% which means 2 ppm FC will lose only 0.5 ppm in 24 hours (4 ppm FC would lose 1 ppm) so you shouldn't have to add chlorine every day, but would still need to add it every 2-3 days -- at least once mid-week for sure, depending on how much you add. Also note that most people don't use enough sanitizer/oxidizer to handle their bather load. Every person-hour of soaking in a hot (104ºF) tub without an ozonator requires around 3-1/2 teaspoons of dichlor or 5 fluid ounces of 6% bleach or 7 teaspoons of non-chlorine shock (43% MPS) to oxidize the bather waste.
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: Could use a little help

    Thank you so much! - When I get home tonight I will post the exact names of my start-up chemicals - to the best of my memory the bottle only says "Oxidizer- Non-Chlorine Shock" - but I will confirm.

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