filter sand

The quickest way is to use liquid but it's also the most expensive.

Given your unique circumstances I'd probably use a few bags of Dichlor to begin with coupled with bleach additions. You can use the 'effects of adding chems' section at the bottom of the Pool Calc to determine how much to use. Shoot for about 20 ppm CYA. I'd then buy a couple of floaters filled with Trichlor and use them when you have to go back to work. I'd run them wide open. That's not what we normally recommend, but the floaters will keep some FC in the water and will keep you from losing much ground each day. By the next weekend you'll probably be at 30 to 40 ppm CYA and you can adjust your shock level to compensate. Once you get to about 40 ppm CYA you don't want it any higher than that until you've finished shocking.
 
Still have not received my spider gasket. Hope it comes before the weekend. I am constantly going over everything in my head and reading other post. But I can't really do anything except get junk out until I get the spider gasket.

Anyway, I have another question. Does anyone suggest drop out at some point in the shock process? In the past, before I found this wonderful site, I would get my pool cloudy blue, drop it, vacum to waste. Was a quick fix. Any comments?
 
We don't suggest a floc or clarifier except in special circumstances. Shocking and filtering will do the job in all but a few instances. I'd wait and see how the shocking process goes before deciding on clarifier.
 
Thank you. I knew I didnt see anything anywhere about it. But I am curious as to why it is not recommended. Does it change to balance of things? I know now that I was only fixing the problem temporarily by doing it. Just wondering why
 

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The best solution is to get a FAS-DPD chlorine test, which will measure FC and CC up to 50 in steps of 0.5 with very high precision.

For right now you can use dilution with the test you have to get approximate levels. Mix two equal parts of chlorine free water (for example distilled water) with one part of pool water, test that, and multiply the result by 3. The results are something like +-5, but it will give you the general idea.
 
I'm thinking I need to post this question somewhere else. But I don't really know where. First of all, thanks to all for the help in getting my pool beautifully clear. I am still having a few problems with my Polaris not running properly, but I've ordered some swivels since 2 of mine leak. My question is, my backup valve does not ever completely stop having a water flow. Do I have a bad valve? I replaced it a few years ago and I'm pretty sure it has always leaked water some. I just thought it was supposed to. It backs up every few minutes like normal, but there is always water leaking. Any help?
 
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