Narrowing down Aqua Logic problems...

Mar 24, 2012
10
Va Beach, VA
Last summer, everything worked fine. The filter ran throughout the winter - it was a mild one here in VA. Again, everything was fine. I've been prepping the pool for summer usage, and now have gotten the ominous "Chlorinator Off / No Cell Power" message on our controls.

I came here, searched some things, found the No Cell Power website, and have been doing what I can for maintenance on my own. Here's what I've done:

Pulled apart box, pulled circuit board. K1 relay solder point definitely burned out. Minor burn damage to the surrounding plastic, but nothing major, and I read that wouldn't be a big deal. Resoldered - at least 10 times, if not more, because various comments on the No Cell Power site said to stick with it, it doesn't always work on the first try. The re-soldering actually got me to a new message: "Chlorinator Off / Low Volts". It still, obviously, hasn't fixed the problem entirely. The voltage readings I'm getting are: +13-25 V, +0.02 A. Occasionally, when I flip the breaker, it will reverse polarity and give me the same range of volts, just negative.

What else I've checked - with no change:

20 Amp fuse. Pulled it, tested it - came up good, but I changed it out anyway. I re-crimped the fuse support posts to make sure it wasn't a bad connection there.
Black & Red power connections - came up aces. No nicks, no signs of arcing or burning, cords are great, connections were solid. Pulled the connections and re-tightened them anyway.
Sensor connections to the board - everything's tightly connected.
Sensor wires and other wires going from the board to the cell and pumps - no nicks, no damage, no nothing.
All other solder points on the circuit board - all pretty and shiny.
Inspected the cell - clean as a whistle.

I do not have, but can get, a multimeter to check voltage being delivered across the board if that seems necessary.

My concern here is that it's affecting the filter as well - the pump will turn on and run (everything sounds fine and normal) for a bit, but then shortly after the chlorinator decides to not turn on because of low volts? The filter shuts off. We're in pollen season and it's all collecting at the top of my now stagnant water, and I'm trying to fix this quickly so I don't also have to salvage the water in addition to the system.

I went ahead and ordered the K1 relay since that was another cheap option as a fix attempt, but I'm considering also ordering a new cell & control box to have on hand just in case the relay doesn't fix the problem, we'll at least have the new cell and box on hand to swap out, and if that fails to fix the problem or the relay does work, well, we can return the cell & box to get our money back.

Does this sound like something the relay would fix? Should I maybe continue with further attempts at resoldering since the initial resolder work got the error message to change? Or is the whole board dead/dying/done for? Is there anything else I haven't thought out?

Thanks in advance!!
 
What you describe sounds like a bad component in the SWG power supply. However, that would not normally cause the main pump to shut off. One possibility is that the pump has prime protection enabled and the SWG is reporting no water flow (which isn't normally a symptom of the power supply problem, but could none the less be related to the SWG problem). If that is the case, it should be possible to disable prime protection and at least get the main pump running.
 
If there is a bad component in the SWG power supply, would that require just swapping out the whole thing anyway? How do I check for the prime protection being enabled? Keeping the water circulated would be a great relief and give us a tiny bit more time, I think, to get the rest of the issues sorted.

I've been wondering if, since the K1 relay point burned up and required resoldering, it would be a good idea to get a whole new setup regardless. If one bit of the board burned up, it probably wouldn't be long before the rest burned up, too, I'm sure. The serial # on the circuit board shows that it's almost 11 years old now, which I'm sure can't help.

I really appreciate you taking the time to respond!!
 
The same power supply is used for the both the cell and and the relays so if there is a loose connection near K1, it can shut off both the cell and anything on a relay including the pump.
 
Well, the power company came out and found no problems on their end. I got the K1 relay in, went to replace it, and upon closer inspection realized that the solder joint burning up had melted the plastic to the relay itself. Not sure if I want to deal with this too terribly much longer.

I think you're right, Mark - the filter will run for so long and then shut itself off. I guess after the SWG has had enough of the low volts. I wound up doing another solder job on the relay joint and continued to have the low volts alternating with a high salt/amps indication, then went back to no cell power. Think the only thing that's going to fix this is a new box and new cell.
 
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