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Thread: new to TFP- my first test results

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    new to TFP- my first test results

    TFP’r Johhny B is here to help me so that should help as we continue this thread; but Johnny B has never faced a high CYA issue

    3/22/2012
    pH 7.6
    FC 0-0.5
    CC 0.5? didn’t really turn pink to start with
    TA 50
    CYA 100+; it was pretty close to the 100line, not distant from the 100 line
    CH 50-75, let's say 50
    Borates 0
    Temperature 72F
    Water is clear.
    Was using pucks, no more, will start BBB method.

    The chlorine & CYA concern me now. Which one to start with?
    Leaves & debris are getting removed now. Don’t want to dump chemicals in until the leaves & junk are gone unless you say otherwise.

    Start with CYA? Drain some water? How much/many inches?
    We’ll start shocking as soon as you guys say.

    We’ll keep pH in line
    ASAP after shocking we’ll add the baking soda to get TA to 70 unless you say to do so sooner.
    Then we’ll get the CH in range.
    The cool temperature is saving me now but that won’t last, it's getting hot daily.

    And Johnny B has no experience w the hot tub.

    Please advise. Thank you.
    Charlotte, NC
    18,000 gallons (includes a 7.5 Ft circular x 2.5 Ft deep hot tub overflow into pool)
    Plaster, kidney bean shape, 3-5 Ft deep
    Hayward Super Pump 2HP
    DE filter:Purex Triton Nautilus FNS 60 model 2001-F
    Gas Heater: Pentair Minimax Plus

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    Re: new to TFP- my first test results

    Is this the correct sequence?

    First Target a CYA of 45 so drain 55% of the water & get all the leaves etc out.
    Refill the pool to normal level.
    Target an FC of 8 so add 299 oz bleach.
    Brush & circulate 1 hour.
    Re-test for CC, start shocking if indicated, if not indicated then add the baking soda Target 70 so 85oz by wt
    Charlotte, NC
    18,000 gallons (includes a 7.5 Ft circular x 2.5 Ft deep hot tub overflow into pool)
    Plaster, kidney bean shape, 3-5 Ft deep
    Hayward Super Pump 2HP
    DE filter:Purex Triton Nautilus FNS 60 model 2001-F
    Gas Heater: Pentair Minimax Plus

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    Aquatica's Avatar
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    Re: new to TFP- my first test results

    I would drain and replace water. if you are using BBB method then I guess get cya down to 50-60 by replacing water.

    Before you target the fc brush the pool. that works better.

    yes bring up TA. wow CH is low. what type pool do you have? plaster? fiberglass? vinyl?

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: new to TFP- my first test results

    I agree with Aquatica that your CH is really low for a plaster pool! See http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-...mmended_levels for all recommended levels. What is the CH of your fill water?

    I am not an expert on CSI (or the need to worry about it) but I am getting yours at -1.31 according to the pool calculator. -0.6 is the minimum recommended for plaster pools.

    I agree that your first step should be to reduce the CYA level by draining and refilling. Do a partial drain like you said, just keep in mind that if you have a high water table draining too much could cause your pool to float. Usually draining ~1/3 is recommended for each drain and refill cycle.

    At some point soon you should probably get your CH level up a bit, but I will defer to the plaster pool experts on here to advise on that subject.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: new to TFP- my first test results

    You say the pool is clear. CC is less than .5. Why do you plan to shock the pool?

    Assuming the pool is clear, you can maintain it with that high CYA. I've done it with CYA somewhere around 220 and water restrictions that prevented draining and refilling. . If you ever let algae get started, then you'll pretty much have to drain to lower CYA. But if you jack the FC up to where pool calculator says you need to keep it, you'll be okay. And you can drain it down a little at a time. Water the lawn with it or something then refill. It's slow, but it works. Like I said, I've done it.

    If the pool is plaster, you need to raise CH. And TA. CH is easy - buy cal-hypo aka "powdered shock" to chlorinate the pool with. TA is also easy - baking soda.

    Pool calculator is your friend. Bookmark it.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
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    Aquatica's Avatar
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    Re: new to TFP- my first test results

    fc above 20 you smell it..with cya way higher than 100 i would replace water. you can work with cya of 100 but if you are using bbb you will be spending plenty on chlorine. if you have an swg then you can work with 100. cya will come down.

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    Re: new to TFP- my first test results

    For what it's worth, I agree with the suggestions of changing out water if at all possible.

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    Re: new to TFP- my first test results

    A huge thanks for all the help. Richard of course you are right about shocking; we did re-think that statement after we posted; there were SOOO many leaves & an FC of ~ 0 we just assumed it’d be necessary but we will re-test & act accordingly.

    We’ll get that CH in range as the last step which woon’t be long; we’ll re-test prior to adding Calcium.

    We’ll start we lowering & re-fill.

    That CalHypo, is that calcium chloride or calcium chloride dehydrate? Calcium chloride dehydrate I assume?
    We’ll have plenty of bleach on hand, so would it be cheaper to use bleach & calcium chloride (Leslies Calcium Hardness Plus). If you say CalHypo is the way to go we’ll do it for sure; where do I find how much it’ll raise the calcium? My tjhinking is that we need so much calcium & let's hope shocking isn’t needed- in which case we won’t be using that much Calhypo so it’ll be a while till the calcium gets up there using Calhypo, so why not get the calcium in a bit quicker w Calcium chloride ?


    Again thanks !
    Charlotte, NC
    18,000 gallons (includes a 7.5 Ft circular x 2.5 Ft deep hot tub overflow into pool)
    Plaster, kidney bean shape, 3-5 Ft deep
    Hayward Super Pump 2HP
    DE filter:Purex Triton Nautilus FNS 60 model 2001-F
    Gas Heater: Pentair Minimax Plus

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    Re: new to TFP- my first test results

    Cal-hypo is calcium hypochlorite, a type of unstabilized chlorine. It is commonly sold in 1 lb. bags.

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: new to TFP- my first test results

    Quote Originally Posted by wesari
    We’ll have plenty of bleach on hand, so would it be cheaper to use bleach & calcium chloride (Leslies Calcium Hardness Plus).
    Might be and definitely quicker than calhypo.

    From "Recommended Pool Chemicals" section of poolschool:
    Calcium hardness can be raised with calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate. They are available in some areas as Peladow, Dowflake, Tetra Flake, or Tetra 94, often sold as a deicer by hardware stores, and some big box stores, in colder climates. Pool stores will carry either calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate under a variety of names, including Hardness Plus, Balance Pak 300, Calcium Hardness Increaser, etc. Calcium products should be spread across the surface of the deep end of the pool.
    Quote Originally Posted by wesari
    where do I find how much it’ll raise the calcium?
    Use the "Effects of adding chemicals" section near the bottom of poolcalculator.com. Makes sure you put your pool volume in near the top of that page.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: new to TFP- my first test results

    We do have some Calhypo on hand. So we will use it up unless you say not to because:

    - it is very old, the cellophane bag it is in is totally shot, crumbles, but the bucket is fine
    - it is as if it is wet, like wet sand.

    Is it cool to use it?
    No worries if not, we have some calcium increaser on hand too.

    As of now,
    - the water level was lowered 50-60%; and it is now refilling, probably full tomorrow
    - 182 oz bleach was added & well circulated by brushing because the pump is off. We only have half the water so that is why only 182oz of bleach. We’ll continue to brush to circulate
    Charlotte, NC
    18,000 gallons (includes a 7.5 Ft circular x 2.5 Ft deep hot tub overflow into pool)
    Plaster, kidney bean shape, 3-5 Ft deep
    Hayward Super Pump 2HP
    DE filter:Purex Triton Nautilus FNS 60 model 2001-F
    Gas Heater: Pentair Minimax Plus

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