Is the Liquidator truly easy to install?

[tethys69]

Hi all,

I've been off the site over the winter but with this early spring rolling I figured I'd better get back on the pool train! As before, this is the site to get the best answers for EVERYTHING poolesque.

Thanks for posting the opinions I've seen thus far on the Liquidator. I'm considering getting one, too. My concern is that I'm not experienced at all with pool plumbing (or plumbing in general, for that matter) and don't want to mess up my currently functioning system. From a truly newbie stand point, is the Liquidator something relatively straightforward to install?

Thanks!

 

[JohnT]

It only took me a few minutes. It's possible to adapt the drain plug for the pump basket for one of the tubes, so you only need to drill one hole. I don't think it took me an hour from opening the box to having it working.

 

[tethys69]

Thanks, JohnT. Sounds like even I could put this thing in. Good to know.

 

[JohnT]

Thanks, JohnT. Sounds like even I could put this thing in. Good to know.

If you have any doubts, take some pictures of where you think you want to drill and post them so we can give our opinions.

 

[RobbieH]

Extremely easy.

 

[tethys69]

Thanks, RobbieH. That seems to be the consensus. Great!

JohnT, that's a good idea. Much appreciated.

 

[Nightmare]

My Pool Builder's guy installed the float/valves upside down. The guy that came to do the actual start-up fixed it.

I have one hose that wants to 'kink' itself, so take a little time to plan the hoses and avoid sharp turns.

 

[bibeaud]

Just hooked up my liquidator using the filter pump drain hole and the heater drain hole. No drilling required.

 

[tethys69]

@Nightmare - good to know. Thanks for the tip.
@bibeaud - I don't have a heater, but that's an interesting idea.

I've read a lot about people using a Hayward Needle Valve. If I decide to try it without this valve first is it easy (and I mean EASY) to upgrade once the Liquidator is installed or do I need to make this decision prior to installation?

Overall, it seems like this thing is handy and easy to install. I might just pick one up. Thanks!

 

[JohnT]

@Nightmare - good to know. Thanks for the tip.
@bibeaud - I don't have a heater, but that's an interesting idea.

I've read a lot about people using a Hayward Needle Valve. If I decide to try it without this valve first is it easy (and I mean EASY) to upgrade once the Liquidator is installed or do I need to make this decision prior to installation?

Overall, it seems like this thing is handy and easy to install. I might just pick one up. Thanks!

It would be an easy upgrade later. The problem with the OEM valve is that it only rotates about a quarter turn and isn't easy to make fine adjustments.

Since I have solar heat, I need a different valve setting to get the same flow rate when the solar is on or off, so it can be tricky to get it set right.

 

[tethys69]

I see what you're saying about the fine adjustments, I think I'll try it without the valve, but with the 3/8th upgrade, and see how it goes. It's at least a starting place. Thank you very much for the help.

 

[tethys69]

OK. Just went ahead and ordered The Liquidator. I've no doubt I'll have questions once I get into it. Thanks for all the help thus far and we shall see how this goes.

 

[tethys69]

So I'm reading the instructions on The Liquidator prior to its arrival. I see I need to have my CYA between 60 and 80. Currently my CYA is 40 - 45. I know there are specific ways to raise CYA but I happen to have a bunch of 3" tabs (with stabilizer) from before my BBB days and I'd like to use them up, BUT, I don't know how long or how many pucks to add to accurately get to 60-80ppm of CYA. Does anyone have any ideas? Or am I just better off with buying stabilizer (liquid or solid)? Thanks!

 

[Bama Rambler]

Don't, I repeat Don't, raise your CYA more than it already is. 40 to 45 is fine just where it is. If you're using about 2 ppm of FC per day I wouldn't raise it at all.

 

[tethys69]

Thanks, Bama Rambler, I'll take your suggestion but any thoughts on why the instructions would say "60 to 80ppm"?
And you're exactly right, I'm losing slightly less than 2 ppm per day of FC (I have 0 CC, btw) but doesn't that go against the 'passing OCLT' rule #1?

 

[Smykowski]

You're losing it to the sun during the day, which is ok and expected.

If a pool loses that much overnight (confirmed via the OCLT) then there's something living in the water.

 

[tethys69]

@Smykowski -Ah. I see the difference. Thanks!
@bama - Thanks for advice. I'll keep it where it is.

 

[tethys69]

I'm intending to install The Liquidator tomorrow, but I have a concern as to exactly where to drill the holes in my piping. If someone could kindly verify where I THINK they should go is, in fact, where they should go that'd be great. Please see the screenshot.[attachment=0:2w2kwg7h]LQ_installation1.png[/attachment:2w2kwg7h]

 

[Bama Rambler]

Connection 1 is correct but I'd move connection 2 to either just before or just after the chlorinator. I wouldn't put it where you have it shown.

 

[tethys69]

Thanks, Bama. So either of these vertical pipes in the pic? Or does it have to be a horizontal pipe? If not, great. I'll just go with the one before the chlorinator if only because it'll be closer to the LQ. If so, I'd go with the horizontal pipe coming from the multiport that splits off to the booster and the chlorinator, drilling the hole in the center of the T, if that makes sense.
[attachment=0:2623n869]LQ_installation_Bama1.png[/attachment:2623n869]