I tried figuring this out with the calculator but it does not give ph effects of bleach. What combination of 12.5 bleach and 3 in tri chlor tabs would be the best to keep ph stable? Thanks
P.H. balance with trichlor and bleach
- Thread starter keene3b07
- Start date
Bleach is mostly pH neutral. Some bleach does contain extra sodium hydroxide as a stabilizer, so it depends on the bleach manufacturer. Trichlor is acidic. When using both, you will probably use about 85 % to 95 % bleach and 5 % to 15 % trichlor.
Factors such as water temperature, aeration, pH, TA and cyanuric acid levels will have an effect on the percentages.
You also have to account for the cyanuric acid buildup from using trichlor. As long as the water is carefully maintained, using a combination of liquid chlorine and trichlor can be a good choice.
Safety note: Never mix any two different chemicals in the same container.
Factors such as water temperature, aeration, pH, TA and cyanuric acid levels will have an effect on the percentages.
You also have to account for the cyanuric acid buildup from using trichlor. As long as the water is carefully maintained, using a combination of liquid chlorine and trichlor can be a good choice.
Safety note: Never mix any two different chemicals in the same container.
I think my response would be to disregard pH of bleach and/or trichlor tabs. Control your pH with muriatic acid (down) or Borax (up)
The actual answer depends on many other factors, such as what other chemicals you are adding to your pool, what your various chemical levels are, if you have a waterfall or fountain, and so on. Bleach is long term PH neutral, trichlor is acidic. If your PH is constantly going up, trichlor will be closer to stable PH than bleach will. On the other hand, trichlor adds CYA, which it is not usually a good idea to be constantly adding to the pool.
I have been under the impression that the liquid chlorine has a high ph. So i am wrong about that? Muriatic acid is starting to get very expensive, so i figured using the acidity of the tri chlor would be a good way to go, because its cheaper and i get some chlorine out of it. I know i have to watch the cya but with only adding a couple tablets a week i figured it probably balances with backwashing and splash out.
When testing the pH of bleach in a jar, the pH will be greater than 7. This would indicate that it is basic. However, what Jason is saying is that over the long term, bleach does not produce a basic environment that needs to be adjusted. Other factors do that.
You may certainly use trichlor tablets. What is important is that you understand their effects and it sounds like you do. As long as you know that it raises your CYA in your pool and you take steps to limit the amount of CYA added, either by draining or by switching to unstabilized chlorine sources when the CYA gets high, you will be fine.
You may certainly use trichlor tablets. What is important is that you understand their effects and it sounds like you do. As long as you know that it raises your CYA in your pool and you take steps to limit the amount of CYA added, either by draining or by switching to unstabilized chlorine sources when the CYA gets high, you will be fine.
At the risk of being repetitive.........
Controlling pH with a chlorine vehicle is making a simple situation complex. Muriatic lowers your pH and has virtually NO side effect. Borax will raise it with virtually no side effect.
Trying to save money by using tabs for pH control would be of VERY limited value in most circumstances. A couple of tabs weekly will likely have near zero effect on your pH and you probably will have to buy those tabs in a 25 lb bucket to get any REASONABLE price.
You can certainly do what you are proposing and you will benefit from learning more and more about your pool but don't do it just to save money. A gallon of muriatic here in NC costs $6.95 and most pools will not use that in a month.....mine uses it in two months.
Controlling pH with a chlorine vehicle is making a simple situation complex. Muriatic lowers your pH and has virtually NO side effect. Borax will raise it with virtually no side effect.
Trying to save money by using tabs for pH control would be of VERY limited value in most circumstances. A couple of tabs weekly will likely have near zero effect on your pH and you probably will have to buy those tabs in a 25 lb bucket to get any REASONABLE price.
You can certainly do what you are proposing and you will benefit from learning more and more about your pool but don't do it just to save money. A gallon of muriatic here in NC costs $6.95 and most pools will not use that in a month.....mine uses it in two months.
You are not wrong about that. The pH of 6% Clorox bleach is 11.9, for some off-brand bleaches it is 12.5, for high-quality 12.5% chlorinating liquid it is 12.5 and for some lower quality chlorinating liquid it is 13.0 or more. However, the consumption/usage of chlorine, including its breakdown from sunlight, is acidic and mostly compensates for the initial high pH of bleach or chlorinating liquid. The end net result is simply an increase in the salt level and that is pH neutral. As James pointed out, the only leftover pH rising chemical in the bleach and chlorinating liquid is the small amount of "excess lye".keene3b07 said:
If you find that your pH tends to rise, then the problem is more likely related to having the Total Alkalinity (TA) too high since that is a source of rising pH due to carbon dioxide outgassing or perhaps your plaster is newer which can also result in the pH rising. It is usually best to address the source problem as this will let you use less chemicals over time.
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