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Thread: need help with green pool

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    need help with green pool

    not sure if this is the right section or not, apologize if i'm in the wrong area.

    my pool has gone green over the winter months here in florida, i had it nice and sparkling and it stayed that way while we were using it, but i get a little lax when no one is using the pool.

    so now i need to get it clear again. the thing is, i don't know if its south florida or what,but liquid chlorine doesn't really seem to do the job and yes there is CYA in the water. the last time after dumping about 20 gallons of liquid chlorine in the pool without success, 3 tablets in the skimmer that miraculously dissolved overnight managed to clean it up. I know that isn't good for the plumbing to be sure.

    so i was thinking of getting some tri chlor granules and using that to bring the FC up and clear it up, would that do the job?
    8000 gal diamond brite pool with 650 gal spillover spa, Pentair 3hp VS pump. Jandy Cartridge filter and Jandy Heat Pump. Jandy PDA automation system with 2 Pentair Laminars. SmartPool NC74S Robotic Pool Cleaner.

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: need help with green pool

    Chlorine is chlorine, whether it is from liquid chlorine or trichlor. Remember that in addition to chlorine, trichlor adds CYA and lowers ph. Post your test numbers and we can help: FC, pH, CC, TA, CH, CYA.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: need help with green pool

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    Chlorine is chlorine, whether it is from liquid chlorine or trichlor. Remember that in addition to chlorine, trichlor adds CYA and lowers ph. Post your test numbers and we can help: FC, pH, CC, TA, CH, CYA.
    liquid isn't stabilized which seems to be the problem, but as you said, chlorine is chlorine so trichlor should do the job just as well as the liquid so maybe i'll give it a shot.
    8000 gal diamond brite pool with 650 gal spillover spa, Pentair 3hp VS pump. Jandy Cartridge filter and Jandy Heat Pump. Jandy PDA automation system with 2 Pentair Laminars. SmartPool NC74S Robotic Pool Cleaner.

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    Re: need help with green pool

    Rob,

    Without posting test results, you and the rest of us are only guessing at what might be the best path. Test your water and post back what you get and the advice you get will be something other than guesswork.

    I don't mean this in a smart-alec way, but you need to get back into pool school for some refresher work.

    Chlorine kills algae...period. Thinking that liquid chlorine won't work but that tri-chlor might is leading you down a path of misunderstanding that will not help you clear your pool.

    Post your results and we'll help you get started. Tri-chlor is not the answer.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: need help with green pool

    Test results, test results, test results! We need test results. Without them you don't know what you need.

    Liquid chlorine is almost always the preferred chlorinating method. It works better than anything else. I think you had already killed the algae with the bleach and the tri-chlor just finished it off.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

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    Re: need help with green pool

    well i can say liquid chlorine doesn't work for me very well, not to mention it is quite inconvenient to go back again and again to the pool store refilling the jugs.

    a big jug of granules would be much more convenient if they will do the job similarly and also allow me to add some as I go which is much more difficult with liquid as I can only refill the liquid on the weekends.
    8000 gal diamond brite pool with 650 gal spillover spa, Pentair 3hp VS pump. Jandy Cartridge filter and Jandy Heat Pump. Jandy PDA automation system with 2 Pentair Laminars. SmartPool NC74S Robotic Pool Cleaner.

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: need help with green pool

    Quote Originally Posted by robl45
    well i can say liquid chlorine doesn't work for me very well, not to mention it is quite inconvenient to go back again and again to the pool store refilling the jugs.

    a big jug of granules would be much more convenient if they will do the job similarly and also allow me to add some as I go which is much more difficult with liquid as I can only refill the liquid on the weekends.
    I think you are missing the point...when you use trichlor (or dichlor), you are also adding CYA, which can be a major problem if the concentration gets too high. It also lowers ph significantly.

    Make sure your reread the article about the shocking process. Remember it is a process and must be done correctly or your liquid chlorine will not work. Key is to keep your pool above the minimum shock level until you are completely done with the process. This will require that you know your CYA level accurately. How are you currently getting your test numbers?

    Just theorizing here...but my guess is that you are yo-yoing your FC level where it dips below the minimum shock level and therefore you are not being effective when you use the liquid chlorine, while the trichlor keeps your FC level above the minimum due to its slower release.

    There are plenty of posters on here in South Florida that have used liquid chlorine successfully with the shocking process. There are also plenty of posters who have posted on here from South Florida with high CYA problems.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: need help with green pool

    I am not sure you are shocking properly. Follow these instructions in this link. pool-school/shocking_your_pool
    But like others have said until you provide a complete set of test results it is difficult to help you solve your delimma. The advice given on this site is solid and has been proven to work. It is your choice to take it or do your own thing, no pool is maintenance free. A few minutes a day is all it takes, but the basis that makes the process work is to know what the water Is doing through testing. That is the only way to really know how to adjust yur chemicals properly. As has already been suggested you may want to do a little reading in pool school and refresh your self with the concepts of BBB.
    17,000 gal, IG Gunite Diamond Brite plaster Kidneybean,w/7x11 tanning ledge& 3x5 swimout bench,244T 300lb Hayward Pro high rate sand filter(63 GPM) , Hayward 1Hp Super Pump w/3/4 hp booster pump, Polaris 280, Laars Lite 2 175k N/G Heater, Tf-100, Speed stir

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: need help with green pool

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    There are also plenty of posters who have posted on here from South Florida with high CYA problems.
    Now thats an ugly sentence Sorry about that.

    I meant to say this: "There are also plenty of posters on this board who are from South Florida and have algae problems due to high CYA levels caused by overuse of Trichlor/Dichlor." If you continue to use Trichlor to "fix" your algae problem, you most likely will continue to have algae problems due to high CYA. How do you chlorinate when you are not shocking or maybe I should ask what is "BETA SWG(built in a robotic pool cleaner)"?
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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