Doing my first tests and I have some questions

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Is there a CYA test that is more accurate than filling the tube until you can no longer see the black dot?

If yes, what is it?

If no, I need clearer instructions. If you see a vague dark shadow in the bottom of the tube does that count as seeing or not seeing the black dot?
 
TomAtlanta said:
Is there a CYA test that is more accurate than filling the tube until you can no longer see the black dot?
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None that I am aware of at a reasonable low cost.

TomAtlanta said:
If no, I need clearer instructions. If you see a vague dark shadow in the bottom of the tube does that count as seeing or not seeing the black dot?
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Take a look at this Taylor page: http://www.taylortechnologies.com/ChemistryTopicsCM.ASP?ContentID=36

CYA is one of the harder test to do. I believe the accuracy is somewhere around +/-15 ppm in the 20-100 ppm range. Being consistent when you do the test is important. Take a look at this post by JasonLion: http://www.troublefreepool.com/cya-test-accuracy-t23772.html#p195498

This also might be helpful: http://www.troublefreepool.com/extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html#p206397
 
The good thing about that test is that you can pour the sample back and forth several times to get a concensus on the level. Once you perform it many times you get the "feel" for it and it gets easier to determine.
 
Thanks for the CYA test info.

It is important that I get this right. Before I found this forum and learned about the problems with Trichloro and too much CYA, I bought 50 lbs of Trichloro tablets. I plan to keep using them until the CYA gets above 50. I don't want to add too much, but I spent $120 on the trichloro tablets and want to use them while I can.
 
TomAtlanta said:
It is important that I get this right. Before I found this forum and learned about the problems with Trichloro and too much CYA, I bought 50 lbs of Trichloro tablets. I plan to keep using them until the CYA gets above 50. I don't want to add too much, but I spent $120 on the trichloro tablets and want to use them while I can.
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Maybe use pool calculators "effects of adding chemicals" section to determine how many you should use, then count out that many and hide the rest from yourself...it is a tough habit to break :wink: The other advantage of this is keeps you from forgetting how many you have added and having to do many cya tests along the way.
 
I am using the TFP test kit and the taylor speed stir.

Most of the chemical tests using the speed stir fill the tub up to 25ml, and the water volume taken up by the little swirling thing seems insignificant. However on the FC test, you only fill the tub to 10ml, and it seems like using or not using the speed stir could make a significant change in the percentage of water, and could effect test results. I am not a chemist though, and am not sure if the total amount of water is that significant.

Another question on the FC test. Why is there a special tube marked chlorine only?
 
You should fill the tube to 10 or 25 ml BEFORE you put the pill into the tube so that you are using the correct amount of water.

The chlorine test reagents can leave a little film on the tube which would affect other tests ... so it is best to just use separate tubes so that nothing gets cross-contaminated.
 
That depends on what cal-hypo costs around where you are. Every now and then I see a good price on cal-hypo that would certainly make it worth it, but typical prices are somewhat higher.

Keep in mind that adding calcium using cal-hypo takes a long time.
 

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I can get cal-hypo at the local pool store for $85 for a 25 lb barrel.
My calcium is 270 so I don't need to raise it, but it gradually drifts down. I figure if the cal-hypo is cheaper and easier to use than bleach from the grocery store I will use it.
 
I did some calculations with the pool calculator and it seems I would break even on price if the cal-hypo is 73%, but would pay more for the cal-hypo if it is a lower percent.
On the other hand, I would pay a few dollars extra to avoid lugging all those big bottles of bleach from the grocery store.
 
In the TFP test kit, when testing TA, it says when adding R-0009 to wipe the tip of the bottle with a damp cloth after each drop added. Why is this necessary? This is the only place in the instructions that is says to do this when adding chemicals.
 
TomAtlanta said:
Is there a CYA test that is more accurate than filling the tube until you can no longer see the black dot?

If yes, what is it?

If no, I need clearer instructions. If you see a vague dark shadow in the bottom of the tube does that count as seeing or not seeing the black dot?
Click to expand...

yes it does, the dot will literally be completely obscured. Holding it up to sunlight makes it harder to see the dot so you might want to try that.
 
TomAtlanta said:
In the TFP test kit, when testing TA, it says when adding R-0009 to wipe the tip of the bottle with a damp cloth after each drop added. Why is this necessary? This is the only place in the instructions that is says to do this when adding chemicals.
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Sometimes static changes the size of the drops creating errors in the testing. Wiping the bottle tip every other drop or so will remove that possibility from the scenario.
 
When you do the quick chlorine test where you put the drops in the container and match the shade of yellow to the colors on the the side, I have two questions:

Does that measure FC or is it some other test of chlorine?

How accurate is it?

I am asking this because I am getting different results between that and the FC doing the chlorine drop test.
 
TomAtlanta said:
Does that measure FC or is it some other test of chlorine?
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It is an OTO Total Chlorine test:
OTO
Orthotolidine

OTO will only test TC but it is a 'bulletproof' test that will not bleach out and will always tell you if there is chlorine in your pool. It will be different shades of yellow if chlorine is present and will turn orange to reddish or even brown at very high chlorine levels. It's a good test for a daily check to see if there is chlorine in your pool and is the test that is usually found in 2 way chlorine/pH testers.
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TomAtlanta said:
How accurate is it?
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Not real accurate and some people have real trouble matching colors. As mentioned, it is a good test to know if you have chlorine, but not so good on how much...and it Total Chlorine, so if you have CC that will show up in the OTO test. FAS-DPD is a much better test to determine FC.
 
TomAtlanta said:
What is "sequestrant"? I've seen this mentioned in other posts can can't find out what it is.
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It's a chemical that bonds strongly with metal ions.

When you have iron or copper in the water, it's not metal flakes, it's dissolved into electrically charged molecules called ions. These are attracted to oppositely charged molecules, quite possibly on your walls. The sequestrant has a much stronger attraction, so the metal sticks to it, not your walls. The metal's still in the water, but it's locked onto the sequestrant where it can't do any harm.
 

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