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Thread: Testing Questions...

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    Testing Questions...

    I finally will complete my build tomorrow and will start to put water into the pool. We can't wait. But, I have a few questions. I already bought the TF-100 test kit.

    For these chlorine tests? Do I test them all? How often do I test each of them? Do I just focus on my FC?
    - FAS - DPD (FC/CC)
    - OTO (Total Chlorine)
    - DPD Chlorine Test (FC/TC)
    - K1000 Chorine Test


    All the other tests (below) seem straight forward - I just don't know how often?

    - PH - I'm assuming I will do this on a regular basis daily in the beginning. So I only use the R14 bottle (came with K1000 kit). The extended directions also mention the option of a R4 drop - I didn't get that with my test kit?

    - TA - How often?
    - CH - How often?
    - CYA - How often?
    - Salt - How often?

    I have been reading the extended directions for these tests as well and have them all printed out ready to go.
    33'x21' In-ground (23,000 gal) - 8' spa raised 18" with 8 jets | Filtration Jandy DE 60 | Sanitation Aquapure 1400 SWG | Pumps Intelliflo VS+SVRS 3.0HP & Jandy 1.5HP stealth water feature pump | Heating Jandy LRZ400 | Lighting Jandy LED Spa (1)/Pool (2) | Coping Tennessee Crab Orchard & Moss Rock | Finish pebble sheen type (riversand) Tahoe Blue

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    Re: Testing Questions...

    Quote Originally Posted by msujohn
    I finally will complete my build tomorrow and will start to put water into the pool. We can't wait. But, I have a few questions. I already bought the TF-100 test kit.

    For these chlorine tests? Do I test them all? How often do I test each of them? Do I just focus on my FC?
    - FAS - DPD (FC/CC)
    - OTO (Total Chlorine)
    - DPD Chlorine Test (FC/TC)
    - K1000 Chorine Test


    All the other tests (below) seem straight forward - I just don't know how often?

    - PH - I'm assuming I will do this on a regular basis daily in the beginning. So I only use the R14 bottle (came with K1000 kit). The extended directions also mention the option of a R4 drop - I didn't get that with my test kit?

    - TA - How often?
    - CH - How often?
    - CYA - How often?
    - Salt - How often?

    I have been reading the extended directions for these tests as well and have them all printed out ready to go.
    Here is how I do it during pool season:
    FAS - DPD (FC/CC) Weekly
    - OTO (Total Chlorine)Daily
    - DPD Chlorine Test (FC/TC)Weekly
    - K1000 Chorine Test same as OTO I do PH daily.

    What I do, for the others:

    - TA - How often? Weekly
    - CH - How often?Quarterly
    - CYA - How often?Quarterly
    - Salt - How often?Quarterly

    This assumes I had them where I wanted them the week or quarter before. If I make adjustments, I usually check to see if I hit my target.

    You might try searching the forums for forms or instructions, I think I saw a few that might be of use to you. Other members did some (IMO) fine work on these and have helped me stay on track.

    A lot depends on your situation, if you use pucks, then you might test cya more frequently. IF you have a vinyl liner, you may test CH less frequently. Others will be along with suggestions.
    My cement pond is a 36K gunite 20X40 built in mid 1960s, Hayward S244S filter, Aquarite SWCG, Jandy 1.5HP 2sp, TF-Test kit and Nitro Wall Climber

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Testing Questions...

    Buford beat me to it...but I will post my take anyways...
    Quote Originally Posted by msujohn
    For these chlorine tests? Do I test them all? How often do I test each of them? Do I just focus on my FC?
    - FAS - DPD (FC/CC)
    - OTO (Total Chlorine)
    - DPD Chlorine Test (FC/TC)
    - K1000 Chorine Test
    Start with for fine tuning your chlorine additions use the FAS-DPD (it is most accurate). Test daily until you have it under control. How are you planning on chlorinating? Once you have figured out your dosing and schedule, you can probably primarily test with OTO and use FAS-DPD once a week and when you have problems.

    Quote Originally Posted by msujohn
    All the other tests (below) seem straight forward - I just don't know how often?

    - PH - I'm assuming I will do this on a regular basis daily in the beginning. So I only use the R14 bottle (came with K1000 kit). The extended directions also mention the option of a R4 drop - I didn't get that with my test kit?
    Test daily until you have it under control. Then decide how often you need it (I test every couple of days).

    Quote Originally Posted by msujohn
    - TA - How often?
    - CH - How often?
    - CYA - How often?
    - Salt - How often?
    These can be tested less often. TA and CH can be tested soon after fill. CYA should be tested about a week after adding since it takes awhile to desolve. Salt should be tested a day two after adding. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-..._care_schedule
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Testing Questions...

    Thanks Linen, I missed the "ramp up", which is very important.

    I also missed this question:
    The R-0004 is for a different kit (or comparator "block") and is a different strength. It is made by Taylor and used for the same purpose, which is probably why it was mentioned in the instructions you read. Unless you have the comparator, I would just use R-0014.
    My cement pond is a 36K gunite 20X40 built in mid 1960s, Hayward S244S filter, Aquarite SWCG, Jandy 1.5HP 2sp, TF-Test kit and Nitro Wall Climber

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    Re: Testing Questions...

    I plan to use my rainbow 320 to chlorinate for the first 30 days and then switch to my SWCG (Aquapure 1400). Once I do the switch and I have all my numbers aligned I will add borax.
    33'x21' In-ground (23,000 gal) - 8' spa raised 18" with 8 jets | Filtration Jandy DE 60 | Sanitation Aquapure 1400 SWG | Pumps Intelliflo VS+SVRS 3.0HP & Jandy 1.5HP stealth water feature pump | Heating Jandy LRZ400 | Lighting Jandy LED Spa (1)/Pool (2) | Coping Tennessee Crab Orchard & Moss Rock | Finish pebble sheen type (riversand) Tahoe Blue

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Testing Questions...

    Quote Originally Posted by msujohn
    I plan to use my rainbow 320 to chlorinate for the first 30 days and then switch to my SWCG (Aquapure 1400). Once I do the switch and I have all my numbers aligned I will add borax.
    What is your pool surface? EDIT: I see the pebble sheen in your sig now... then that makes sense (the Trichlor). It might be best to separate only the pucks you need to get to your desired CYA level...just so you don't overdo it Remember Trichlor lowers ph and TA, so keep an eye on those.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Testing Questions...

    msu john,

    Test your fill water for CH, pH and TA as it's going in. You will have no CYA, salt or Chlorine until you put it in there so no need to test.

    Use the pool calculator to calc the dosages required to bring your salt up to the level for your SWG and then test to see how accurate you are. Repeat same for CYA bringing it up to 60 for now.

    Chlorine and pH will be biggest variables. Other parameters will remain fairly stable.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: Testing Questions...

    Thanks for all the responses. I think I understand what i need to do in the short term now. Would it be better for me just to use liquid bleach until I get my SWCG going? I was thinking the pucks would help me with CYA as well and it will only be for 30 days.
    33'x21' In-ground (23,000 gal) - 8' spa raised 18" with 8 jets | Filtration Jandy DE 60 | Sanitation Aquapure 1400 SWG | Pumps Intelliflo VS+SVRS 3.0HP & Jandy 1.5HP stealth water feature pump | Heating Jandy LRZ400 | Lighting Jandy LED Spa (1)/Pool (2) | Coping Tennessee Crab Orchard & Moss Rock | Finish pebble sheen type (riversand) Tahoe Blue

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Testing Questions...

    Quote Originally Posted by msujohn
    Thanks for all the responses. I think I understand what i need to do in the short term now. Would it be better for me just to use liquid bleach until I get my SWCG going? I was thinking the pucks would help me with CYA as well and it will only be for 30 days.
    You're going to need CYA anyway, use the pucks. I would. Somewhere on Pool Calculator it will tell you the effects of adding so much Trichlor, based on your volume. So don't buy a 100 pound drum if 30 pounds of pucks will get you where you want to be. It might not hurt to keep a few gallons of chlorine around, in case the pucks don't dissolve as fast as you need. Not too much, though, it does have a shelf life.

    CYA can get tested when you're about 3/4 of the way through your calculated Trichlor. No point wasting reagent until you have something to see.

    I suspect you'll end up testing everything else every day, just like the rest of us did when we got our new toy!

    Keep a log. As you see the effects and changes and the pattern, you'll get to know your pool's personality. By then, much of the novelty will have worn off, and you'll have a feel for how often you'll need to test.

    The OTO test is pretty much a waste of time when you're using the FAS-DPD test. I use it just to burn up reagent and see if I'm getting any better at color matching. Usually I'm within 1 ppm, which isn't close enough for my tastes.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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