New pool owner from south LA (Louisiana)

[turbodog]

I've been reading for a couple weeks now and finally got my test kit (that i found on here) TF-100. Most everything is in my sig and avatar. I have a single Aqua Genie skimmer/return. If i left anything out let me know. Some background the pool is 2.5 yrs old and was a virtual swamp when i got it. I was throwing chemicals (shock and some salt) at it until i came to this site.

In order to knock out the green again (starting over w/ some knowledge) I added 12 bags salt (40 lb bags) bought all HD had. I've been adding a gallon bleach almost everyday for 6 days, the first day i think i added 5 gallons. first day i also added 4 lbs hth stabilizer.

Tested last night (2/15)
FC 10 ppm, not quite sure about the instructions going from FC to TC?
PH 8.2+, will be buying some MA tonight. pool calc says i need 113oz
CYA 20 ppm, added another 4 lbs hth stabilizer. trying for 70.
TA 260

My SWG (Pentair) now says it has enough salt (green light). Any more advice on what to do next. Right now it s beautiful aqua marine color (not what i want for a final product, lol) and cloudy (whitish). Also, I'd like some advise on running my pump. I got my first elec bill and it's eating my lunch. I've been running it 24/7 to help clean the pool.

Thanks!

 

[duraleigh]

Welcome to the forum. :lol: YOur first priority is to reduce your pH....sooner rather than later. Once that's down in the lower 7's, retest your TA.

On a new kit, the TA test can be influenced by static electricity. While you are counting out the dropps of the R-0009, take a damp cloth or damp paper towel and wipe the dropper tip every 3 drops or so. Again, don't do it until your pH is down but then post the results of those two when you get them.

Since you have added CYA, you'll need to up your FC to the shock value associated with your calculated CYA result. Use the FC/CYA chart in pool school. (Are you sure 4 lbs will get you to 70ppm CYA....seems like not quite enough)

DO NOT count on your SWG to bring your pool up to the shock value you need.....continue to use Clorox for that. Keep your FC up at Shock, Run the pump 24/7, backwash/clean the filter as required and be patient. That aquamarine will soon turn to a clear blue!

 

[Smykowski]

Also, I'd like some advise on running my pump. I got my first elec bill and it's eating my lunch. I've been running it 24/7 to help clean the pool.

The experts will be here shortly to cover the rest, but I'll address the above. You'll have to bite the bullet until the pool is clear and all the dead algae is filtered out. However, once you get it under control, you won't need to run it 24/7.

I'm in northern IL, and we can get electricity for less than $.04/kWhr at night (I pay for actual hourly rates, not avg daily rates). I run my pumps from ~10pm until ~8am, and it's much easier to stomach that way. Even if you pay higher, your runtime will be drastically reduced once your pool is cleared up.

Edit: Duraleigh answered as I was typing. Another reason why this is such a fantastic forum.

 

[turbodog]

On a new kit, the TA test can be influenced by static electricity. While you are counting out the dropps of the R-0009, take a damp cloth or damp paper towel and wipe the dropper tip every 3 drops or so. Again, don't do it until your pH is down but then post the results of those two when you get them.

I was wondering why the instructions said to clean w/ a damp cloth (so i skipped that, oops). now i know, thanks.

Yup, to do lower ph and keep up the FC.

Thanks for all the help, keep it coming!

 

[WhoDat?]

Welcome to TFP!!!!

Just wanted to say hi!! I'm from Crowley, LA.... kinda cool to see other people so close to me on here... I cant answer your questions cause I'm just as new as you to this business.... But I can learn! I just finished my pool...
Here is my pics if interested...

finally-my-pictures-t40778.html

 

[turbodog]

OK, i was reading other posts trying to pick up information. And read this...
If your FC above 10ppm then this will make your pH test inaccurate.

Is this true? I've putting in a gallon of bleach a day for over a week now. My FC was 25 ppm this morning. And again my pH was above 8.2. TA was 240 ppm.

I added 1 gallon of MA last Thur/Fri and added another gallon this morning.

Should I let my FC get below 10 before testing pH again? I guess I'll stop adding the bleach to get my FC to drop. Any suggestions/advice?

And hello back, acutally i'm in youngsville. I read your thread, impressive.

 

[duraleigh]

Yes, it is true. Your first post indicated an FC of 10ppm so your pH test of 8.2+ was valid and you needed to reduce pH.

Have you used the pool calculator to calculate your dosages and predict results?

Have you read how to shcock your pool in Pool School?

I am concerned you are tossing chemistry in your pool without testing and dosing accurately.......on of the principles of BBB

So, anyway, with FC @ 25ppm, you pH test is very inaccurate and you should ignore it until your FC gets at or below 10ppm.

How does your water look?

 

[turbodog]

Yes, it is true. Your first post indicated an FC of 10ppm so your pH test of 8.2+ was valid and you needed to reduce pH.

Have you used the pool calculator to calculate your dosages and predict results?

Have you read how to shcock your pool in Pool School?

I am concerned you are tossing chemistry in your pool without testing and dosing accurately.......on of the principles of BBB

So, anyway, with FC @ 25ppm, you pH test is very inaccurate and you should ignore it until your FC gets at or below 10ppm.

How does your water look?

Yes, I was basing most everything on the green swamp to sparkling oasis and the three B's. I've read the Pool school articles. I used the pool calc to figure how much MA and bleach i needed initially. But it seems i could have been way above 8.2.

I wasn't trying to get my FC above 10, just maintain. I just filled the spa Sunday, we got a ton of rain. So, i was worried about contaminants (algae) from its piping. I really should have been testing more often and stopped adding bleach if my pool was maintaining a FC of 10 on its own.

the water is more blue than aqua marine but still cloudy. So, now i know to test FC before pH.

 

[turbodog]

Did another test last night:
FC = 23
CC = 1
TC = 24
TA = 220
CYA = 30
CH = 440

So, i added another 4lb stabilizer and haven't been adding any bleach for 3 days. Pool is still cloudy but now I'm assuming its from the Calcium.

 

[Bama Rambler]

With a CC of 1 ppm you need to shock your pool (which you're already doing). I wouldn't add anymore CYA until you pass the OCLT (see sig).

 

[257WbyMag]

Welcome to TFP!

 

[Melt In The Sun]

I like the name...I wish we could get turbodog out here! Purple haze was my gateway beer...

 

[turbodog]

I like the name...I wish we could get turbodog out here! Purple haze was my gateway beer...

That's exactly where the name came from. I can't get enough of pretty much anything abita puts out.

OK, i did another test tonight. I didn't do the OCLT test because the CC could have gone .5 or 1, it's pretty close between the two.

FC = 28
CC = .5 or 1 again.
TA = 230
CYA = 45 forgot to add yesterday.

I have not added a drop of bleach for 8 days now but my FC keeps in the 20's and now has gone up. I am leaving my chlorine generator on, is that the problem? I know it sounds like an obvious question but I didn't figure it would add enough chlorine to keep the FC up so high.

I have the overflow from the jacuzzi and run the fountain occasionally i thought that would bring down my TA?

Thanks.

 

[turbodog]

I hate to post before i got any help but i would really like to know if i'm headed in the right direction or if i'm totally off base.

I did unplug the chlorine generator last night (intellichlor). I will see tonight if my FC will finally start dropping.

It's taken a while but slowly the pool is becoming more clear. I can see the bottom starting to go into the deep end.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Looks like you're headed in the right direction. Unplugging the swcg was smart because it can add more than enough chlorine this time of year to keep the FC high. It also needs to be unplugged (or turned off) when doing the OCLT.

 

[turbodog]

Looks like you're headed in the right direction. Unplugging the swcg was smart because it can add more than enough chlorine this time of year to keep the FC high. It also needs to be unplugged (or turned off) when doing the OCLT.

Doh! Man, it makes sense now that you say it. I would have always passed the OCLT if you hadn't of mentioned that. Some of the obvious things i miss. Thanks!

Bama Rambler, i'm originally from LA (Lower Alabama) Fairhope, AL to be exact.

 

[Bama Rambler]

I'm north of there, but my sis lives there.