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Thread: Pool Replaster Statement of Work

  1. Back To Top    #1

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    Dec 2011
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    Charleston, SC
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    Pool Replaster Statement of Work

    I am getting close to hiring a pool plasterer. Which became a much easier job once I realized that pool companies around here all hire the same 3-4 pool plasterers instead of doing the work themselves. The savings itself was dramatic going direct to them. Here is my concern...
    ---Most of the plasterers provide a couple numbers with no real contract or defined statement of work in writing.
    Does anyone have a good Statement of Work that seems to cover everything I need to remember?

    Thanks!
    IG Gunnite Pool Size: 25K gallons (20 x 40, 3'6" to 6" depth) with 2 huge Baker Hydro cartridge filters under the skimmer baskets on the suction side, 2 mech timers
    BRAND NEW PLASTER! Quartzscapes/Diamondbrite, Newer Polaris 280, Brand New Hayward Maxflo VS, Brand New Pentair Intelichlor
    I will conquer the black algae this pool season!!!

  2. Back To Top    #2

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    Re: Pool Replaster Statement of Work

    Here is what i think a good SOW would be...Can anyone see anything wrong or missing...

    • Safely drain & prep pool including draining and standard pressure wash and sounding of entire pool interior for hollow areas.
    o This includes hooking up to and monitoring the plumbing system that is installed under the shell of your pool. This pump will run 24/7 until pool is completed and filled up with water. This is to ensure the safety of the shell during construction to eliminate shell float.
    o This also includes removing any hydrostatic relief plugs in the main drains and installing relief holes for hydrostatic relief.
    • Remove all hollow areas in existing plaster and apply bonding coat
    • Cut and grind under tile line, around outlets, all penetrations and around all applicable areas and apply hydraulic cement to ensure that no leakage is present.
    • Extend all plumbing to be flush with new interior
    • Install new fittings (white)
    • Install new main drains to meet with new code requirement
    o Remove existing main drain
    o Install new set of 8” main drains 3’ apart per code
    • Install new waterline tile Style: TBD.
    o Full tile replacement includes removing all existing tile and hauling away all of the debris. Contractor will clean all of the old setting material off of the pool shell. Contractor will brown coat the tile area (making it smooth and level). Contractor will apply a waterproofing material and install a new tile with grout to match the new plaster color.
    • Scratch Kote entire pool
    • Re-finish with Quartz Aggregate (10 year pro-rated warranty including mottling)
    • Refill pool and balance all chemicals before turning pool over to customer - start up
    • Educate customer on proper startup procedures to ensure proper plaster curing
    IG Gunnite Pool Size: 25K gallons (20 x 40, 3'6" to 6" depth) with 2 huge Baker Hydro cartridge filters under the skimmer baskets on the suction side, 2 mech timers
    BRAND NEW PLASTER! Quartzscapes/Diamondbrite, Newer Polaris 280, Brand New Hayward Maxflo VS, Brand New Pentair Intelichlor
    I will conquer the black algae this pool season!!!

  3. Back To Top    #3

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    Re: Pool Replaster Statement of Work

    If one of my plasterers went direct to homeowners, I would never use them again. I would also ensure my peers knew about it too. My plasterers know not to mess with the channels that feed them.

    Scott
    Owner of - PoolGuyNJ LLC
    Expert Pool and Spa Repairs, Renovations, and Augmentation. Helping people decide what is the right gear for meeting their needs. Expectations Set, Expectations Met, No Surprises.

  4. Back To Top    #4

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    Re: Pool Replaster Statement of Work

    There are proper steps to follow for the making of durable pool plaster. There are also improper practices that can lead to early deterioration or discoloration. Following is a ten-point checklist that will help achieve a lasting and aesthetically pleasing pool plaster. Pool owners should insist that plasterers adhere to the following guidelines.

    1. The best cement/aggregate ratio is about one part cement to 1.5-1.75 parts aggregate (marble sand). If the plaster is too rich (cement-heavy), it tends to shrink and crack. If it’s too lean (more sand), it will be less durable and potentially unworkable.

    Note: Always select high-quality and appropriate-grade cement and aggregate.

    2. When mixing plaster, a thick mix is best. Shoot for a water/cement ratio of .48 or less. Both the American Concrete Institute (ACI) and the Portland Cement Association (PCA) maintain that lower water/cement ratios produce better-quality cement that can withstand occasional exposure to mild acids.

    Lower water/cement ratios boost density while reducing permeability, porosity, shrinkage (craze cracking) and water movement within the cement product. Higher water/cement ratios, by contrast, cause excess shrinkage and cracking, and fail to offer adequate protection or long-term durability against the effects of water and the environment.

    3. A plaster mix should be mixed thoroughly, but also not too long. It is recommended that if the plaster has been mixed for more than 90 minutes, the plaster mix should be discarded.

    4. Plaster should contain as little calcium chloride set-accelerant as possible – and never more than 2 percent to the amount of white cement. (Colored plaster, of course, should not contain any calcium chloride.) According to the PCA and other testing facilities, too much calcium chloride increases gray mottling discoloration and cement shrinkage. Several alternatives to calcium chloride that do not exhibit these characteristics are now available.

    5. Never add water to plaster surfaces while troweling. Both the ACI and PCA have found that this may increase porosity, shrinkage, and variable discoloration. A little water to lubricate the trowel, however, likely won’t harm the plaster surface.
    Still, you never want to “work,” or force, additional water into the plaster surface when troweling. Doing so can weaken the surface and may accelerate deterioration and caused spotting or streaking discoloration. Color plaster is even more susceptible than white plaster to white spotting discoloration from too much water troweling.

    6. Well-timed hard troweling can help produce a nice, dense plaster finish. But if the plaster becomes too hard before you have a smooth surface, the result is often dark gray discoloration and spotting, especially when calcium chloride is also used.

    7. Plastering in extreme weather conditions can lead to quality and durability problems. Industry groups specifically warn against using cement-based products in temperatures considered too hot or cold. One solution is “tenting” the pool, which protects the plaster surface (and the plasterers!) from the elements. In extreme dry heat, tenting the pool, and perhaps even directing air from an evaporative cooler beneath the tent, will help the plaster retain its moisture, and properly cure and harden.

    8. Don’t fill the pool with water too soon. Though conditions vary, water usually should not be added for at least six hours after the pool has been plastered and finished. This should be enough time for the plaster to harden properly before being submerged in water. Even balanced tap water can dissolve certain plaster components if the surface has not adequately hardened. The end result is often greater porosity and early deterioration. And it may only take a few months to show up.

    9. Soft or aggressive fill water can also deteriorate new plaster surfaces; and the effect is uniform. Other new plaster problems such as drips, splotches, spotting, trowel marks, and hand- and footprints are the result of localized finishing errors.
    Surfaces may be further damaged by aggressive (acidic) startup techniques, which can cause additional uniform surface loss. By contrast, baking soda startups can neutralize aggressive fill water while promoting a superior plaster surface.

    10. Once the pool is filled, balance the water (and keep it balanced). Balanced water helps help preserve the plaster. Aggressive water causes uniform etching, while over-saturated water scales plaster. The Saturation Index is a good guide – to prevent scaling or etching, water should have a saturation index value in the range of -0.3 to +0.5.

    With reasonably consistent maintenance, standard plaster has a life span of approximately 20 years. It’s an inherently strong surface, and should be able to withstand “real world” chemistry and/or maintenance challenges.
    Though pozzolans, blended cements and other materials are generating good results, there’s still no substitute for solid workmanship. The above guidelines will benefit pool plasterers in the pursuit of a quality, long-lasting pool finish.

    When a pool is being plastered, the pool owner should obtain two plaster samples (in paper or plastic cups), especially one from the last plaster batch. An analysis of the plaster can help determine the cause of various plaster defects that may show up later.

  5. Back To Top    #5

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    Re: Pool Replaster Statement of Work

    Quote Originally Posted by PoolGuyNJ
    If one of my plasterers went direct to homeowners, I would never use them again. I would also ensure my peers knew about it too. My plasterers know not to mess with the channels that feed them.

    Scott
    Scott, Thanks for the heads up. I'll be sure not to tell any of the pool companies that gave me quotes. Why do pool companies charge so much anyways for a re-plaster only job? I can see a markup of 15-20% but the markup was more than double! That seems greedy when the plasterer is carrying the insurance and the same exact warranty. I found the area's reputable plasterers at http://www.npconline.org.
    IG Gunnite Pool Size: 25K gallons (20 x 40, 3'6" to 6" depth) with 2 huge Baker Hydro cartridge filters under the skimmer baskets on the suction side, 2 mech timers
    BRAND NEW PLASTER! Quartzscapes/Diamondbrite, Newer Polaris 280, Brand New Hayward Maxflo VS, Brand New Pentair Intelichlor
    I will conquer the black algae this pool season!!!

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    413

    Re: Pool Replaster Statement of Work

    Quote Originally Posted by PoolGuyNJ
    If one of my plasterers went direct to homeowners, I would never use them again. I would also ensure my peers knew about it too. My plasterers know not to mess with the channels that feed them.

    Scott
    When my PB took my money and quit my job I looked at hiring another PB to take over and finish the pool The equipment needed to be purchased and installed, the electricity work needed to be done, and the pool had to be plastered. Other PBs wanted about $20k to finish the pool and I did it for about $12k by dealing directly with the subs. After hearing the story of how I got screwed, some of the PBs here even gave me the names of their subs.

    Granted, this is different that a replaster job, but I'm sure glad the PBs here in Houston were nice enough to share their subs.
    9,200 gal. Gunite Luna Quartz French Grey pool with spill over spa, two fountains on tanning ledge (rarely used)
    Pentair Whisperflo 2HP, Pentair CCP Cartridge 420 Sq. Ft., Polaris 280 with booster pump
    Pentair EasyTouch 4, RayPak LoNox 266k Natural Gas heater, Aqua Rite SWCG T Cell 9, Borates, TF-100 test kit

  7. Back To Top    #7

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    Re: Pool Replaster Statement of Work

    One thing to remember too who are you going after if the plasterer messes up. You will likely name everybody involved. That is why the markup. It is unfortunately called cover your you know what.
    Over 30 years in the pool business
    We build vinyl, fiberglass, stainless steel pools
    Certified in Hydraulics

  8. Back To Top    #8

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    Re: Pool Replaster Statement of Work

    If the plasterers advertise their business in the YPgs like they do here, I say it's fair game to go straight to them. The guys here are all used by the same PB's to do their plastering jobs, but the plasterers also have an add in the phone book that they do renovations themselves.

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